avocado leaves going brown (forum)

Paul starts with ...
The leave tips are turning brown eventually going through the whole leaf, then falling off. New growth is appearing. I have another tree close buy and is not affected, its growing really well. Any ideas what this could be.

Paul
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Time: 4th March 2010 9:31pm

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amanda says...
Paul - at first I thought salinity burn - but those spots look fungal - anyone else?

Time: 4th March 2010 10:05pm

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Brendan says...
Hi Paul,
Leaf-tip-burn is usually from too much fertilizer, or as Amanda says, salinity burn from 'somewhere'? What's your water like?

Those black spots. We used to call them 'oil spots'. Give your tree a spray of 30g Mancozeb, 4.5 litres water & 30ml of a good wetting agent. The wetting agent is the key. Spray the tree once a week for 4 weeks, then once a month 'till it clears up.

I'd spread a lot of gypsum around your avocado tree, say 4 handfulls / sq m.
You can now buy liquid gypsum (clay breaker). Wouldn't hurt to give it some of that too.
Does the tree have lots of mulch?

Time: 6th March 2010 7:37am

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Paul says...
It's starting to make more sense now. I've included photos of the sick tree and the tree next to it which is doing really well, only with minor burning. The ground is clay/rock but have built then on a mound. It only happens this time of year with the heat. I water them every second day from mains water. If it is salinity it has to be coming from the ground some how, maybe leaching from the clay underneath on hot days.
I do add cow manure and as lucerne mulch .
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Time: 6th March 2010 9:58am

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Brendan says...
Hi Paul,
Might pay to move the mulch away from the trunk of your trees.
I try to keep it 150 to 200mm away, just to help stop collar rot etc.

Your trees look good. Are they grafted or seedlings?

Time: 7th March 2010 8:03am

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Paul says...
They are Grafted Bacons. They are coming into there 4th year in August. They were growing nearly 1 inch a week last year, crazy. Had heaps of fruit this year the size of golf balls but unfortunately they all dropped off. I think it

Time: 7th March 2010 9:08am

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Brendan says...
Hi Paul,
The fruit probably dropped off because of Anthracnose. Avocados (and mangoes) are notorious for this.

To stop this, mix 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb plus, 4.5 litres water, & a 'good' wetting agent. eg Spreadmax.

Spray the trees once a month. When the buds appear, spray them, BUT, once the buds open, STOP spraying until the small fruits form. Once you reckon you have enough small fruit, spray once a week for 3 to 4 weeks, then go back to the once a month spraying program.
As the 'guru' up here says, you'll be sick of eating avocados :-)

To help the fruit get to a decent size, give them a fertilizer high in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), and wouldn't hurt to give them a bit of boron & zinc. Hope that helps.

Do you or a neighbour have a Hass avocado tree? I'm fairly sure Hass (type A), pollinates Bacon (type B), this will help you get more fruit.

BTW, I read somewhere that the Reed (type A) avocado can handle 'salt' better then the others?

Time: 8th March 2010 7:38am

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BJ says...
Hi,
I think my baby dwarf wurtz has leaf tip burn. It is just at the tip of the older leaves and the leaves have changed from their initial deep green to more of a kermit green. It still has plenty of new growth. It is only watered with mains water.
The plant is in a pot at the moment (it is moving to a new much bigger pot toward the end of spring, but I need to seal the pavers the pot will be sitting on)...
How can I help the plant get its nice dark green leaves back?

Time: 1st September 2010 5:53pm

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Jason says...
BJ, the leaves fade colour and then fall off the tree once a year (when there's new growth coming), it pretty much all happens within a space of a couple of months so might worry you if you didn't know that was going to happen :)

Time: 1st September 2010 7:07pm

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BJ says...
Thanks Jason!
I'll keep an eye on it! hopefully by summer it will be back to its dark glossy leaves!

Time: 1st September 2010 9:46pm

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Suzanne says...
12' Avocado tree suddenly losing many leaves, anyone know what's wrong? Or, any suggestions?
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Time: 19th May 2011 5:30am

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Suzanne says...
more pictures of Avocado tree

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Time: 19th May 2011 5:32am

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Brendan says...
Hi Suzanne,
We have a product over here called Anti Rot, made by Yates. If you can buy that or equivalent, I'd give it a spray. Try googling it.
It looks like it's lacking iron (yellow leaves), I'd give it some iron sulphate, sulphate of potash and some gypsum.
I would also remove the lawn under the drip line, then put the above brew onto the soil, then cover all that with lots of good mulch, but keep it away from the trunk, like my tree.
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Time: 20th May 2011 8:07am

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John says...
Try using miracle grow, 24-8-16 to get the dark green leaf color back. Miracle grow contains the essential micronutrients as well. Follow instructions to fertilize. Check the pH of soil, should be between 6.0 to 6.5 so that the micronutrients can be absorbed by the roots. Once green comes back, feed regularly with a balanced avocado/citrus fertilizer.

Time: 30th May 2011 6:31am

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beetlebob says...
I have a very young avocado tree and the leaves are turning brown and falling off. I live in Lytle TX, which is in south Texas and the heat is high. My tree is in sandy soil which i think gets good drainage but i don't understand why the leaves are browning, wilting and falling off and no new ones are coming back. I don't know if it's pets, improper watering or root rot. This is a grafted Opal Avocado tree. I would appreciate any help. I also have a tee pee around the tree on two sides to keep the western sun from killing it.
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Time: 26th July 2011 6:37am

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About the Author beetlebob
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tree lover says...
Had brown leaf problem myself - to the point of my young potted tree nearly dying - from tips and through veins on most leaves .. Come to find out it was SALTY WATER ! The water in the San Fernando valley has too high minerals and it was killing my avocado (what a sensitive plant).

Decided to post to help people out who might have this problem, who are watering their tree - and in turn killing it with minerals!

THE ANSWER FOR HIGH MINERAL / SALT CONTENT IN WATER :

- add 3 capfuls of white vinegar to 1 gallon of water every single time you water your plant
- use a water filter in addition to the vinegar above (water filter alone won't work)
- pour coffee / tea grinds on soil (avocados like that)

Got the 1st & 3rd idea from a flowershop nearby, and it's done wonders. EVEN WHEN YOU FEED YOUR PLANT add the vinegar to the water. According to my doctor mom Vinegar binds with salt in someway and deactivates it.. Has taken 6 months or so but all my avocado leaves are turning green and multiplying beautifully - !!! WOW !!! And the last of the brown ones are falling-off. Nearly lost my potted avocado tree - so good luck to all of you out there; may this help and your avocados thrive!!!

PS - IN PICTURE you will see the last of my brown leaves (which will fall off); all green growth is new ..

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Time: 13th August 2011 12:42am

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amanda says...
It's an interesting problem tree lover. The max salinity for humans is around 1100ppm... which is a lot higher than fruit trees...(adult sheep = 9000ppm) We often don't appreciate this fact with water quality - even from our taps.

The best buffer for salinty is a good compost, gypsum and rain water flushes. Plus some well considered watering methods. There is NOTHING that will control or eliminate chloride from your soil. Sodium yes..but not Cl. And guess what they put in the tap water...

Let's face it - our scheme water is getting saltier every year because of the pressures being put on it - just for drinking alone ...collect as much rain water as u can...

(ps littlebob...advocado growing soil is the key...sand is no good! you basically need premium potting mix or natural volcanic soils... avocado growing soil is not easy to come by...)

Time: 13th August 2011 1:30am

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Brendan says...
Hi All,
For what it's worth, here is the 'gurus' answer about avocado leaves going brown etc.
Q. "Hi Tom,
My avocado tree is looking sick. Here is a photo of one of the leaves.
Thanks." (lost photo for some reason?)


A. Potash and Calcium deficiency, apply Sulphate of Potash one clenched handful per sq metre and Gypsum four clenched handfuls per sq metre.

Here's a photo of my Lamb Hass avo taken today (13/8/11). It's covered in new shoots, and been in 22 months. That is gypsum on the mulch, and that's your Lima bean in the background Amanda:-)
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Time: 13th August 2011 8:20am

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amanda says...
Nice work Brendan - both look very happy. That sure is a tropical bean - it never grew that well for me here!
I really like gypsum too...I think it's great stuff - I find it doesn't induce an iron deficiency like some other calcium based chemical-fert's (like calcium nitrate)
I recently gave both of those things to my lawn along with some phosphate - it's greening up just beautifully and last nite there were fat n happy worms crawling all over it :)

Time: 13th August 2011 12:39pm

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quellen says...
I've been growing avocado at home for more than three years. During last months the bottom leafs are becaming yellow, then turn to brown and finally fall away. The trunk is nearly bare now. Can anybody help me?
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Time: 16th August 2012 4:39am

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silvi says...
I have aavocado grown from the pith and is in a pot. Leaves are turning brown and falling and I have new growth at the top and on the stem but they also are slowly turning brown. I water with distilled water from my air/con unit, the pot is of adequate size.I spray it every day. The temp here is 35-40 but has been 48. plant is not in full sun but plenty of light

Time: 15th September 2012 8:35pm

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ivepeters says...
Does anyone know why my hass Avocado has leaves turning red along veins ,then easily fall off ?


Time: 26th October 2012 2:08pm

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Ron says...
I bought this this grafted Avocado tree a few months ago now and it has not grown much prob due to winter dormant months but it has started to grow some new buds now. I recently started noticing some of the leaves turning brown. I have fertilized once since I have had it now 3-4 months. Does anyone have any ideas as to why some of the leaves are turning brown like this? It is planted facing North west so it does get some winds when we get a cold front and I have it supported at the top. Thank you.

Time: 10th February 2013 4:47am

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Avocadolover says...
My avocado tree looks like this and I'm not sure what's causing it. Can anyone offer help? It's a large well developed tree in the ground. Not sure how old but I'm thinking 10-20 years? We just moved here so I'm not sure of the history of the soil. Thank you for your help.:)
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Time: 15th February 2013 12:35pm

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VF says...
Ron and Avocadolover, I'm learning as I go along too, but I've found that very cold winds can cause that browning on the leaf in winter. Extreme heat in summer can do it too. Avo trees are sensitive to salt too, sometimes found in some tap-waters and also in fertilisers(best to use organic types), and again will have browning leaves.

Time: 16th February 2013 8:22am

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Brendan says...
Hi Avolover, try giving your tree a good dose of Gypsum, and some extra 'P' & 'K' fertilizer plus trace elements.

Is the tree well mulched? They love mulch.

Time: 16th February 2013 8:31am

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amanda says...
Hi avocadolover...we moved here recently and I found this avo in the same state...the other photo is only roughly 2 months later...I fed mine some liquid aquaponics fertilser I had handy (as I wasnt sure if it was a salt issue - and this fert has no damaging salts in it..) and also gave it a big soaking before hand...
Then I fixed up the retic going to it so it got watered properly and after a bit gave it a little dynamic lifter..and presto!
It then flowered also.. :)
This one has loads of lovely leaf litter as mulch.

If extra water and modest feeding doesn't see an improvement then it could be your water supply...fingers crossed it's not that.

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Time: 16th February 2013 11:08am

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Avocado Lovers Malaysia says...
Hi everyone.

Greetings from "Avocado Lovers Malaysia" (Facebook group page)

I need some help.

One of my members is growing an Avocado Tree and is facing problems with the plant... Can anyone analyse the cause of the leaf turning yellow and brown? and what solution we should take?

Regards
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Time: 25th February 2014 12:24pm

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Markmelb says...
Hi Avocado Lovers Malaysia -
I myself wouldnt be too concerned about the odd leaf tip yellowing or browning as Avos dont show anything until a few month after a deficiency - sunburn more immediately tho -
Im more concerned about the leaf veins being so yellowish?
Has plant had gypsum - Zinc - or Boron around drip line? If not can do wonders but you wont see effects until next flush of leaves and them hardened off -
PH of 5.5 is what to aim for too - like to hear if youve done any of the Above

Time: 26th February 2014 8:58pm

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Avocado Lovers Malaysia says...
Hi Markmelb... :)

Thank you very much for your feedback. I will try to apply Gypsum - Zinc as what you recommended.

I have used Epsom salt a few weeks back but I am not sure whether this has caused the leaf turning yellowish

Time: 27th February 2014 10:59am

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Markmelb says...
mmmm Epsom Salt may be ok on strawberries but I did that on my lemons too and didnt like it - dont think the Avos do either - hope you didnt put more than a tablespoon on - hopefully rains wash through in your area - I reckon can cause some yellowing veins on leaves - how much did u put on?


Time: 27th February 2014 6:42pm

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Avocado Lovers Malaysia says...
Hi Mark... According to my friend she added in 3 spoons full... However, you could be right since citrus and Avocado share the same type of fertilizer....
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Time: 31st March 2014 11:33am

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Markmelb says...
Hi Good to hear back and that you didnt use too much epsom salts - was interested to see your bag of fertiliser as Avos are a bit hungry as are Citrus but never seen an Avo fertiliser here ever - maybe palm food - can you list the NPK ratios and percentages on side of your bag for comparison purposes - Thanks

Time: 31st March 2014 6:26pm

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Jason says...
Mark this is what I use on my Avocados most of the time, it's just a general fertiliser. In fact I use the same stuff on everything. About 2 kilos per tree. 1kg for smaller trees. Natural pH here is 5.5. 6.0 in the areas that now have leaf litter.

N: 23.8% P: 3.7% K: 13.0% S: 4.1%

Time: 31st March 2014 6:58pm

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Markmelb says...
Hi jason - Ive use a bit of a mix - Dynamic lifter then have green jacket slow release in mix already have put on Troforte M Fruit and Citrus recently and leaves are growing huge???? as lower sections of trees getting more shade as sun lowers to winter - my huge Fuerte in Richmond thats now about 22 years old has lots of self fertilized Avos this year with really long stems to the fruit - picked a couple to bench ripen last week b4 the locals get to the easy reach ones - lots up high (110mm x 60mm and 209gms) so are already a good size and getting bigger - only had one out of 6 grafts fly away yet - have to get some lessons from you :)

Time: 31st March 2014 7:55pm

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Jason says...
Wow that's amazing you can pick Fuerte at this time of year. Richmond must be borderline tropical!. I can't pick a Fuerte for another 9 months yet.

Out of interested for those in cooler climate such as Sean. I picked a Gwen the other day and it was ripe, maybe even gone slightly too far. I've been picking Hass for a month? they weren't quite ready then but the last ones that have ripened now are ready. But there are smaller ones on the tree for hanging during Winter. I picked a Reed a while ago and it wasn't ready however they are much bigger now so I've picked another and I think it'll be near perfect. As far as weights go my Hass are pretty small this year (heavy crop) they are 220-250 grams at the moment. The Reed I picked is 430 grams but they will get even bigger than that more towards Winter.

P.S long stems are a good indicator of how much nutrients the trees have in my experience. Longer the better.

I still like Reed the most, tastes the best, good looking tree, sets a sensible amount of fruit. Not too much or too little. It's pretty good :).

Time: 31st March 2014 8:11pm

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Markmelb says...
Thanks Jason - Im picking say a month or two early as locals around that 8mt x 5mt Fuerte will take the lower ones but higher ones are hard to see - lots more this year than last year - Im glad it hasnt been ripped out - I think they see it as a desirable tree now since I planted in about 1992 and was in a pot for about 6 years before so they can grow away from a big pot planting in the ground :) PS : How long have your Hass been on tree? are they a year old? My Lamb Hass still on the tree are about same size as Fuerte

Time: 31st March 2014 8:18pm

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Jason says...
Oh yeah the Hass I'm picking now pollinated in November 2012 :). The only time there isn't two separate crops on the tree is between August and November (while it's flowering) so it works very hard. No wonder they like the food.

The "Mexican" types never carry two crops as they are ripe mostly in September from an October set the year before.

Time: 31st March 2014 8:30pm

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Markmelb says...
LOL - Im starting to see Avocados after all these years as giant Vegetables - and Im still learning

Time: 31st March 2014 8:38pm

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Avocado Lovers Malaysia says...
Hi Everyone... I'm now in the office.. I'll check and get back to you on the NPK ratio and the contents of what is in the pack... :) If I can recall, I remember this product is made from Australia... but I could be wrong.... :)


Time: 3rd April 2014 6:40pm

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Markmelb says...
Found your Product easy on web

The Espoma Company,

6 Espoma Rd, Millville, New Jersey USA

www.espoma.com

Never seen in Australia - too much other competition here - How much do you pay in Malaysia for 5kg?

PDF http://www.espoma.com/p_consumer/pdf/products/tones/Esp_Citrus.pdf

Time: 4th April 2014 9:18am

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joey ho says...
could someone help, leaves on my avocado is turn brown/yellow and it looks like the avo is dying :(, what can i do?
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Time: 25th April 2014 9:18pm

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JohnMc1 says...
Could possibly be just a weak yellow seedling, I get the odd one myself.
Otherwise, are they getting enough natural light? Is the potting mix really well drained? do you water them well? Do you have phytophthora in your area?


Time: 25th April 2014 10:48pm

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Brendan says...
I suspect a Phosphorus deficiency, leaves curling up and turning brownish (even purple), is the giveaway IMHO.

Time: 26th April 2014 8:30am

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Markmelb says...
IMHO - plants been indoors too long and potting mix doesnt look great - can only keep avos inside so long - I suggest start again with some new seeds - I see you have others going - no big loss - if you would like to experiment repot into say Debco camelia potting mix and add say a teaspoon of zinc phosphate and half a handful of gypsum and repost in future
Pic of a couple 8 month old seedlings for grafting next year
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Time: 26th April 2014 1:05pm

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sternus1 says...
My 2 cents:

There's too much coir in the potting mix, they're not getting enough sun, and half the roots re sitting in water and half are sitting out of it.

Time to repot in standing free draining mix, and put them in dappled light.

Time: 26th April 2014 1:15pm

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Australia
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Tatyana says...
Can anyone help me with my tree, I don't know why it's turning brown like this, I planted it a few months back everything was fine until 2 weeks ago, it's been raining at least once a day or every other day but For some reason the trees leaves are still turning brown right now every thing is brown but the stem. Can anyone tell me why my tree is the way it is. O and if this helps I live in Florida so right now it's the rain season

Time: 15th July 2014 11:38am

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Florida
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Africanaussie says...
I have been reading through this forum, and havent found an identical problem to mine. Gypsum seems to be reccomended quite often. I have sandy soil so I thought gypsum was only added to clay soils. This is a grafted dwarf avocado, and looked like this when I bought it in a pot. I thought putting it into the soil would perk it up, but now all the leaves have in fact fallen off. A lot of worm castings were added when it was planted, but I do use town water and add seaweed to my compost and mulch so will try adding a little vinegar to the water, and maybe add some coffee grounds as mulch. My soil ph is around 7. It has been very dry, but our wet season should start soon.
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Time: 4th December 2014 9:02am

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Cairns
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Markmelb says...
Ive been thinking about what to offer - apart from you being in Cairns - I think you basically bought a dud plant - search out a few differnt growers and see how vigorous they look esp with big green leaves before buying - dont be shy about giving half a days or afternoon shade. Re Gypsum - Avos treat it like a fertilizer so a couple handfuls no probs even in sandy soil - also compost up your soil and try for a ph between 5 and 6.2 and be patient - Avos are very slow to react so a little bit is best and wait a couple months.

Time: 4th December 2014 8:12pm

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jakfruit etiquette says...
Gypsum is Calcium Sulphate, it is used in potting mix to supply Calcium and Sulphur,
esp Calcium without raising the pH.
The rate for pot mix is up to 1 kg per cubic metre, without shifting pH.
Other Ca sources are lime and dolomite which raise the pH. Coarse Gypsum is slow release as it dissolves.
It should be useful in any other soils.
Gypsum is also used to fix salty clay soils structure, but that is not its only use.


Time: 5th December 2014 7:17am

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Markmelb says...
got this from Wiki -
Gypsum is a soft sulfate mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate, with the chemical formula CaSO. 2H2O. It can be used as a fertilizer, is the main constituent in many forms of plaster and is widely mined.

I do know from experience that Avos love it and since finding out about using it they have never looked back -- but dont use too much

Time: 5th December 2014 7:51am

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Africanaussie says...
thank you for that Markmelb, I didnt think it looked that healthy at the beginning, but always like to feel I can bring plants back from the brink :) It looks as though I should add a little gypsum.

Time: 10th December 2014 10:44am

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Cairns
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Africanaussie says...
Thanks too Jakfruit, I will have to wait until I go into the big smoke, but definitely going to add a bit of gypsum. I have sprinkled some coffee grounds around the drip line since I realize my soil PH is a bit higher than reccomended - normally closer to 7.

Time: 10th December 2014 10:51am

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Markmelb says...
Im really sorry but coffee grounds are nearly close to neutral - bit of a myth about acidity - put some sulpher granules around as recommended and they are slow release - the Manutec is what I use on my blueberries too with a bit of peat and pine needles if you cn find them for mulch as well.

Time: 10th December 2014 7:08pm

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Julie 1 says...
Tea leaves are pretty acidic - I have tested with a pH meter. Fairly high in nitrogen too.

Time: 10th December 2014 8:33pm

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Tommoz says...
Coffee has a pH of 5.0-5.1

Time: 10th December 2014 9:11pm

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Julie 1 says...
RE: Lowering Ph with normal tea from tea leaves

Much like coffee, if the leaves/grounds have been used to brew the drink, much of the acid has been removed. Used coffee grounds (UCG's) and tea leaves will have some tannins left in them but far less than if used before the brewing process. Laboratory tests sponsored by Starbucks have shown UCG's to be only very slightly acidic to almost neutral with regards to pH.

Either way, they are not an effective method of lowering soil pH - they just offer too little to make much of an impact. Same with most leaves and conifer needles -- contrary to common belief, tests have shown that these materials generally considered to be "acidic" amendments or mulching ingredients have minimal impact on soil pH. They may offer a slight lowering of pH at the soil surface if used as a mulch but once incorporated in to the soil and beginning the decomposition process, their contribution to soil pH is negligible. And once decomposed, like other compost, they will be nearly neutral in pH.

Using the brewed liquid rather than the remains should provide better results - that's where all the acidity is - but even that is not going to do much and not for long. Soil pH is dependent primarily on the mineral component of the soil, not on any sort of organic matter that is added to it. Organic matter decomposes and disappears over time while the minerals remain. Altering soil pH to any significant degree is an ongoing process, not a one time thing.

You'd have better results with applying sulfur or incorporating peat moss in the planting hole but these methods will need to be repeated as well.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/organic/msg0110544722453.html?3

Time: 11th December 2014 10:36am

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Bryan2 says...
What could be wrong with my avocado trees?
Pictures - Click to enlarge

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Time: 22nd February 2015 12:38pm

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Escondido, CA
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Markmelb says...
More information needed - what are your daytime Temps in Celsius?
Your Watering regime as soil looks very dry?
Avodos love water when its warm/hot and hate it when cool/cold

Time: 22nd February 2015 1:48pm

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zutano says...
my tree leaves turn yellow and then brown and then fall off. put out new leaves and then does the same. I water once weekly. what could be the problem? I do not have a picture

Time: 29th March 2015 7:25am

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modesto california
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Athertonbackyarder says...
This is a shepherd avocado I planted in late December. We had a run of extremely hot humid weather and I have been watering daily. First I noticed the black mark on the trunk and then it started dropping leaves. I cut it back about 3 weeks ago and one week ago watered the soil and trunk with 2 teaspoons of copper oxychloride mixed with about 8 litres of water in a watering can. I now have purchased some Mancozeb an d wonder if I can use it at the same time. I noticed this weekend that black spots are appearing on the leaves.

Time: 14th February 2016 3:23pm

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amehart says...
The attached pictures show my dwarf avocado I purchased from you several years ago. It's growing, but every year it has these brown spots, and brown leaves. Can you help me identify what the problem is AND what I need to do to correct it?

I have also not had any fruit from the tree yet. Is there something I can do to encourage fruit to grow?

I live in WA state and put the tree in a little hot-house type enclosure during the winter. And bring it out in the spring.

Time: 20th April 2016 12:45am

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Western Washington State
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myki says...
hi guys, daleys has a simple but real informative video about growing avocado trees succesfully. it'll certainly shed a bit of light to why your trees are having problems. hope it helps! http://youtu.be/W_Vx86SCX4w

Time: 20th April 2016 7:32pm

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davewastech says...
In Perth a frequent cause of avocado leaves browning is salt, predominantly NaCL.
See https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/spring/growing-avocados-irrigation-principles?page=0%2C3#smartpaging_toc_p3_s1_h3
Note that irrigation water with more than 320 ppm salt is unsuitable, and should ideally be less 190ppm (when I last lived in Perth the bore water at our house had 1500 ppm and the soil was loaded with salt from previous bore use - just suitable for growing much more salt-tolerant plants).
Also note that it is important when using marginal water that an irrigation strategy to avoid salt build-up in the soil should be used (see same article for details).
Also if either you or nearby neighbours have (or have had) a salt-water pool (6000ppm salt) then it is quite common for pool owners to just run the backwash water onto the nearest bit of dirt.

Time: 25th April 2016 10:36pm

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davewastech says...
If you wish to know the salinity of your bore water you can get a rough idea by asking a swimming pool store to test it with a conductivity meter. It's usually free.
Also there is another resource for Perth called The Perth Groundwater Atlas which has maps of salinity levels throughout Perth Metro Area. This can be found in hard copy at some libraries, and can be found in various online versions
eg https://www.water.wa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/.../52616.pdf
and go to the crude map on page 14. Unfortunately it shows the lowest range as 0 - 500ppm
There is a better online version somewhere, but I think it needs a plugin. It will tell you approximate salinity, depth to bore water, etc for the address you type in.
There's quite a lot of backyard avo trees on Perth Metro's sandy coastal plain, growing quite well. I know at least some of the owners use just tap water to water them.

Time: 26th April 2016 9:41am

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Medrex says...
Got a pretty young avacado tree that recently got repotted. It seems to be doing well for the most part but there's just one leaf on the tree that's been steadily getting some brown on it. It's been slowly spreading on the leaf for the last week and looks like it's been following the veins.
Any ideas? basic googling says it might be a case of to much fertilizer but I'd like to be certain.
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Time: 18th September 2016 12:34pm

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Waterfall says...
Medrex my avocado trees typically drop all their old leaves this time of year, I'm in Sydney too, I have wurtz and pinkerton.

Time: 19th September 2016 9:42am

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Starling1 says...
Bryan,

that looks like dehydration to me. Judging by the soil type you're on as displayed in the images, it's going to be tough to grow Avo's or indeed any fruit trees, in those conditions. Heavy clay soils are highly water repellent, and it's likely that the water from your driplines isn't penetrating anywhere near enough to get to the roots. Bush mulches layed over the top of soils such as that tend to only compound the problem. Your spae does look like it gets very hot--and are those thick tree roots I see? Will be tough for your fruit trees to compete with water against those.

You have a beautiful flat block, which is good because really, the only way you're going to get good results is by building raised beds. Sorry to be the bearer or bad news, but if it's any consolation, I'm in exactly the same boat. It took me a long time to accept that I simply cannot plant in situ directly in clay. So for people like us, we've got a steeper hill to climb, but once the overheads are out of the way, we can control what happens in the soil much better than our counterparts who are lucky right off the bat!

Time: 20th September 2016 11:19am

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wendyloo says...
in your picture file number one that is what my avocado leaves look like what should i do would really appreciate your help
Cheers Wendy

Time: 22nd September 2016 3:18pm

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Medrex says...
Thanks for the response Waterfall!
So it's normal for an Avacado tree's leaves to go brown like this and drop off at this time of year in Australia?
This is my first time growing one and I couldn't really find any concrete info googling about it.
This tree's maybe around half a year old give or take a month.
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Time: 23rd September 2016 12:06pm

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Markmelb says...
Medrex - Its only a baby seedling i take it - It should get lots of shade - or just filtered sun like in a rainforest - how would you feel as a baby on blazing hot Bondi Beach?
Its really not too bad anyway but I did note saucer under pot - lose it or roots will rot - after you manage to get this to 3 mts you can try a grafted Avocado - good practice as are one of the hardest sub trops to grow.
(Note - I am not trying to be condescending as I have many seedlings waitng for grafting in January in various degrees of perfection - some are and some have worse than yours spotty and brown leaves - yours could even have been attacked by Avocado mite as have seen similar pics of California Avos like that but maybe doesnt exist in Australia but hey try growing the new GEM Avocado as a seedling?)

Time: 25th September 2016 6:08pm

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Klev says...
Hi, can anyone tell me what's going on with my avocado? It's over 12 months old, but only planted into a big raised bed a few months ago. Soil is well-drained mix of composted pine bark and topsoil. It gets morning sun and then dappled light. It's been a pretty cool Spring so far here (I'm in Belair, which is Adelaide foothills)

I've given it some manutec soluble fruit and citrus fertiliser, and some neutrog organic pelleted fertiliser.

The twig that's going brown looks to me like some sort of rot or virus - do I cut it back before it spreads?! I check this tree every day (it's my baby), and I only noticed it today.

And what about the tip of the new leaf drying out? Too much water? Not enough? It's watered with a drip feed system from my rainwater tank, so it fairly constant watering.

Thanks in advance :)
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Time: 18th November 2016 10:50pm

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Belair, SA
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Marichelle says...
Hi! Just bought this Fuerte from you guys 2 weeks ago and planted in our yard in brisbane. Could you please tell me what we are doing wrong? It was perfect when we got it! Too much water? Heat? Thx guys!
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Time: 8th February 2017 8:18pm

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Cashmere
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Biddaddaba says...
Could this be he same problem... been in the ground maybe two weeks. We are in Hervey bay

Time: 21st October 2017 11:45am

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Point Vernon
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Stevie j says...
Have a Hass growing from a pith, just transferred to a bigger pot, we live in extreme climates from 08 c to 40c some summers, problem is the new leave are a brown in color, can anyone suggest something for this tree as I don't want to lose it.

Time: 8th November 2017 7:29pm

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Healesville Victoria
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Manfred says...
New avocado leaves are shiny brown. They turn green as they age.
Some people consider it attractive to have a tree covered with shiny new leaves covering the old green leaves when there's a flush of new growth.

Time: 9th November 2017 8:23am

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Tully
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Fruitylicious1 says...
It might be transfer shock especially if you relocated them after the pot upgrade from a different spot, from a shady position to a sunnier position. Slowly harden your plants first before exposing them to the full elements of the environment. Shock can kill whether plants or humans. Irrigate them with a weak solution of seasol and rainwater to ease their woes. Also apply white water base paint on the branches to protect them from sunburn during the hotter segment of the season. Over watering and over fertilizing are also possible reasons for browning leaves.
HAPPY GARDENING :-)

Time: 9th November 2017 10:50am

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Matt8888 says...
I purchased a dwarf avo plant about 12mths ago. I kept it in its pot for the first 9mths. About 3mths ago I planted into the ground. I heaped the soil and purchased a Vegie mix (mixed with plenty of mushroom compost) with additional sand from a local landscape supplier. Since planting there is no new growth and recently the bottom leaves have started to yellow.

Any ideas?

Reading other posts I wouldn’t have thought it would be from a lack of nutrients/fertiliser. All I can think of is the new area I planted it in gets less sun than where I had it when in it’s original pot.

Engadine, Sydney, nsw
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Time: 22nd March 2018 8:31pm

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Engadine
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David01 says...
Hi Matt8888,

Mushroom compost is excellent on the vegetable garden but not for Avocado as it needs acidic growing conditions, If soil PH is high which makes other nutrients in the soil less available to the plant. In severe cases, yellowing of the foliage (known as lime-induced chlorosis) and in general stunting occurs.

Mushroom compost also contains high levels of soluble salt and Avocado very sensitive to salt.

Your Avocado may have more than one problem but the first step you need to correct that is your soil.

Avocado soil PH between 6-6.5. Cheers.


Time: 23rd March 2018 9:44am

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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Matt

I see nothing wrong with your avo. Majority of the leaves are healthy and all of the stems are in good health. It's just the normal shedding of the older leaves. The leaves are not plastic so they won't stay with the tree forever. Sooner or later most of the older leaves will have to go to be replaced by new ones. If the shedding of the leaves started from the tip and the upper tip of the stems dries out then that's a real concern coz the roots might have began to rot already. Don't be surprised if your avo becomes crappier as the weather starts to cool down. Relax...

Happy Gardening :-)

Time: 23rd March 2018 7:24pm

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YMal3 says...
I've had my Mexican avocado tree for a little under a year. I've noticed that it will not grow any taller. Lately the bark has gotten dark spots all throughout, leaves will brown on tips and holes through them. Can anyone tell me what could be wrong with my tree and what I can do to help it flourish. (I live in deep south Texas, I water at least twice a week since temperature here is in three digits and I fertilize every other month with the appropriate plant food)
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Time: 22nd August 2018 6:17am

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Texas
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David01 says...
Hi YMal3,

It's difficult to diagnose your Avo tree as you live in Texas. However I will give you some tips to workout by yourself. Hope it will help.

1. Young avo doesn't like direct sun on the hot day (easy to get sun burn on the trunk or branches). Thus it needs to have some shades to protect it when it is young.

2. No chemical fertilizer for the first few years but small dose of poultry/cow manure can be applied on surface. Salinity and over fertilizer will kill the Avo. which shows the burn mark on the leaves

3. Soil needs to be well drain otherwise Avo will get root rot if water logged. If you have clay below the ground, you should raise the bed about 1 by 1m and 0.5m high with good top soil. keep the soil moist but not wet. Need more water during the hot day

4. Prefer PH 5.5 to 6. Cheers


Time: 22nd August 2018 3:58pm

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YMal3 says...
Thank you David01 for the tips. I will use them to help my avo.

Time: 23rd August 2018 10:56pm

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Texas
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Pete_repeat says...
So at first I thought my avocado leaves were going like this because of frost but curious if it's a definiency or the organic lifter has caused the burns?

I'm in south west Sydney (Camden). The plant has never been the same since planted in the ground (it lived in my vege patch) but it had always had green leaves that wilted reasonably easily which I assumed was due to shock..

Its in a well drained soil, that appears a little sandy.
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Time: 2nd September 2018 8:21pm

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CAMDEN
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Markmelb says...
You basically have root rot if it wilts on a warm day ~ I saved the Avo in my profile pic that I can't darn well change ~ I used Medley 50G fungicide initially then Aliette WG spray monthly ~ hope you can source those products.
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Time: 3rd September 2018 8:20am

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Waterfall says...
It is normal for avocado trees to lose their leaves this time of year as the flowers appear.

Time: 3rd September 2018 10:10am

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About the Author Waterfall
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Luke :) says...
Yes it is completely normal for avocados to shed there old leaves this time of year, the more cold tolerant varieties will hold onto there leaves longer but even they will naturally shed there old leaves as a new rejuvenating spring flush of flowers and leaves appear.

There are multiple YouTube videos addressing this very problem, with new avocado growers freaking out thinking there trees are dying when they are going through there natural growth cycle.

My Secondo avocado looses its leaves fastest this time of year thanks to the Sharwil genetics.
My Fuerte and Lamb Hass hold there leaves well, until new growth is set in.
Pinkerton is a strong performer, in regards to showing no signs of winter browning, even with other stresses such as root rot.

-
An off topic question.
Does anyone know what varieties of avocado Pinkerton will graft to.
My options are:
1. Hass seedling
2. Fuerte
3. Lamb Hass
4. Secondo

I've heard some avocado varieties dont readily graft to other varieties, creating a mix match of what grafts to what within the avocado species.

Time: 12th September 2018 4:15am

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Original Post was last edited: 17th September 2018 5:30am
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Markmelb says...
I used Reed seedling for Pinkerton ~ Coles has Reed fruit now.

Time: 12th September 2018 1:20pm

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Luke :) says...
I've heard Reed is the go to for avocado root stocks, i may crack a seedling.

Out of the 3 cultivated varieties I have, do you think I need a Pinkerton as well?
Or would I be missing out?...If you had to choose between a Reed and a Pinkerton to eat what would you go for?

See my Pinkerton had root rot but I managed the fungus with a diluted hydrogen peroxide dip, regardless I dont think it will ever fully recover, maybe, maybe not.
So im wondering if i should graft a cutting to a healthy tree or a individual root stock...or scrap the whole thing and buy a Reed.


Time: 13th September 2018 8:09am

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Markmelb says...
I saved my Pinkerton too - not a great grower here. Perrys has Reed and they look like pretty good plants to me. Ive had root rot issues immediately after purchase and saved with above fungicide regime - grafted them to Reed and sold them in good condition.

Time: 14th September 2018 1:18pm

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Mango Mike says...
Luke... Do both.....Most varieties will take different varieties but commercial growers are using Reed as a root stock because of its vigor..... Mike

Time: 14th September 2018 2:21pm

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Luke :) says...
I think I may be able to have both varieties Mike, but I do have space issues.
I potentially could use my Secondo to graft on a Pinkerton and Reed, as it is my most vigorous tree, I wonder how it compares in vigor to Reed?
Does any one own both and can comment?

That being said, im not sure how good of an idea that is to graft a semi dwarf Pinkerton onto a vigorous Secondo?
May end up looking lopsided in the future.

Then again, I may just Plant the 3 varieties that I have as as a trio planting to become one tree and graft Pinkerton onto one or multiple varities.

My original plan was to plant the Fuerte and Secondo towards the back of the hole and the semi dwarfs Pinkerton and Lamb Hass at the front, purely for aesthetics.

In the end my criteria are:
1. Is it space friendly
2. Does it function how I want it to, ie, shade, fruit production, noise barrier
3. Will it look good in the future


I know both varieties to work well in a tight space according to what iv'e read. Reed being upright and less spreading in nature and Pinkerton being a semi dwarf, but I just cant bring myself to put 5 different varieties into one hole, it's overkill haha.

Time: 17th September 2018 4:38am

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Original Post was last edited: 17th September 2018 5:34am
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Luke :) says...
Hey Mark, nice to finally chat, i enjoy reading your forum contributions 👍
I swear H ₂O ₂ is a God send!

I was surprised when my Pinkerton was performing the least well out of all my varieties since the description on Daleys says &quote;e;e;e;Pinkerton is shown to have some cold tolerance&quote;e;e;e;, I took this to mean it does well in Adelaide.
My Pinkerton started showing symptoms of decline towards the end of it's first winter.


Just a thought, why would both our Pinkerton's suffer root rot when all the varieties, I presume, you and I have are grafted to Reed!!
Is it a coincidence?!?

Well, I will say Pinkerton does have cold tolerance, but under-performs in cold climates due to being more susceptible to root rot.
But why, when Pinkerton is grafted to Reed?
Maybe Reed wont do well in Adelaide or Melbourne either?
But then by that standard all the varieties grafted to Reed should also show signs of root rot?



Time: 17th September 2018 5:28am

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Original Post was last edited: 17th September 2018 6:05pm
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Markmelb says...
Luke- in individuals possibly - attend to underperforming Avos with fungicides immediately and maintain with Aliette WG monthly - Pinkerton seems to grow gangly rather than compact - Lamb Hass Bacon & Secondo are more compact with more internodal growth - I have a Wurtz grafted with Ederanol going gangbusters at my community garden on a mound with branches draping the ground flowering profusely first time and protected by 50% shade cloth - its so green and should make everyong happy if it produces well - way better than my own. Also keen to know how you used the hydrogen peroxide & concentration?

Time: 17th September 2018 8:17am

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Original Post was last edited: 18th September 2018 11:03pm

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BerylAnne says...
My son's avocados have developed brown leaves through the winter. Not being much of a gardener myself, wondering if this looks like 'salt' or 'frost' problem?
And what can we do about it please 😊

Time: 22nd September 2018 12:06pm

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Luke :) says...
Hey Mark, well I think im going to wait till the Pinkerton recovers enough to do some top working to my other avocados.
I dont need a Reed right now.

For the Hydrogen Peroxide I used the standard 3% solution that you can buy from any supermarket, not the 20% agricultural solution.
I used half a cup of H ₂O ₂ to about 3 and a half litres of water.
and I'm sure I could have made it stronger as it is only a 3% solution to begin with.


Time: 7th October 2018 8:42pm

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Luke :) says...
Hi BerylAnne, If I could get a photo that would be good, but im betting it is just cold damage from winter.

it is nothing to worry about, it is most likely cold damage and purely antithetical at this stage and poses no threat to the plant.

Is the avocado putting out new spring growth??

Avocados loose there old leaves around this time of year in place of new spring growth of flowers and new shoots.

Time: 7th October 2018 8:48pm

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newbie_j says...
Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone can help me figure out why my avocado (pot plant) has brown spots on its leaves. Many leaves have been chewed by a caterpillar, so I've taken care of that. Also a couple of the leaves have a white chalky-looking film on them. Thinking whether it's a salinity issue, fungus, root rot? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
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Time: 3rd August 2019 6:00pm

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Amanda says...
I am thinking it might be oedema actually? It is in a rather small pot for it's size - but it also appears to be growing well/vigorously - so it might be time to pot it up into a bigger container this spring and pop it somewhere nice and warm to recover.

It is cold now and oedema can occur when the roots are taking up more water than the leaves can transpire and/or when in high humidity.
How often are you watering it? Do you keep a dish under the pot or allow the water to drain off?
Just be careful not to over water or overfeed at this time of the year.

Others may have some different info/thoughts though.

Time: 4th August 2019 3:20pm

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newbie_j says...
Thank you Amanda! I am trying not to over-water it, as it is winter and it gets some rain. Yes, I normally keep a dish under the pot (not in photo) to allow the water to drain off. You're right, I have been thinking I need to repot it, as it is getting too big for the existing pot... so I will replant it and make sure it's not water-logged and hopefully it may recover. Thanks again for your suggestions.

Time: 7th August 2019 8:14am

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Julie says...
A dish under the pot will not allow the water to drain off - I only use them in summer. Better to remove it. There are small 'pot feet' you can buy to raise the pot off the ground so roots don't stay too wet.

Time: 7th August 2019 7:41pm

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Andrew82 says...
My newly potted avo planted a week ago has this weird copper colour and now the leaves are starting to curl. What could be the problem. All my research has come up suggesting fertiliser burn. I did put some fert in when I ported would this be the problem. Any ideas what it could be.
Thanks.
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Time: 8th August 2019 1:52pm

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Ali Cunningham says...
Hi there, has anyone any idea what the issue could be with my plant? I read up that it could be salt built up but I’m not sure? Btw, it doesn’t always live in the sink I’m just giving it a water.
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Time: 4th November 2019 3:18am

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Matt8888 says...
I planted my tree about 1.5yrs ago, through the first summer it put on a huge amount of growth but the main trunk was not rigid - it was floppy to the point where the top of the tree bent over and is now permanently bent over. This year there is some growth particularly on the bottom part of the tree, again these branches seem floppy to the point where they run along the ground as they can’t support themselves. I’ve attached photos.
Is this normal? (I’m a novice Gardner particularly with fruit trees - engadine, Sydney)
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Time: 23rd December 2019 2:33pm

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davewastech says...
What variety is it?
I don't know about the floppiness, but I'm impressed by the amount of growth in 1.5 years.
My lamb hass is 1.2 years old, same climate, and about half that size. Mine flowered this spring! (but I removed the flowers). Your raised bed looks suitable.

Time: 24th December 2019 12:49pm

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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Matt8888,
Your avocado tree is deformed and should be pruned to correct misshapen form. First, cut all the low lying branches to give you access to the tree. Shorten long and weak wispy branches to half. Now get a sturdy ladder and cut off the deformed top. To easily maintain the tree and harvest the fruits limit the height to 8 feet. Don't worry about pruning avocados they easily and quickly grow back during the growing season. After the much needed haircut feed it and give it enough drink.

Time: 26th December 2019 8:28pm

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Noobgardener says...
Hi all,

I’m trying to grow avocados in Adelaide. One of them is doing well, but the other is speaking to me and I can’t understand what’s happening. Almost all the leaves are like this and I am desperate. Please help!
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Time: 15th September 2021 6:10pm

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MelbFruit says...
Hello,

I think my Wurtz is experiencing the same! I purchased mine in the autumn, and it has done well through most of the winter outside in its pot. The leaves were turning brown and starting to droop a bit so I moved it into my greenhouse, but it has not perked up. I have only occasionally watered it since it has been in the greenhouse. The soil is moist (see picture), but I don't think it is too wet. I have watered it with Seasol (once or twice this winter), and have sprayed its leaves occasionally with micronutrients that I bought for my mandarines (which still have yellow leaves!!). The nutrients include sulfur, iron, magnesium, manganese, Zn, B, Cu, and Mo.

From reading some prior posts, I wonder if it has to do with cold burn or salt in the soil. I did pull the tree into the greenhouse prior to the really cold temperatures this past month. Do you guys know what kind of water is in the inner West of Melbourne? Are avos also micronutrient spray?
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Time: 24th August 2022 6:42pm

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