Dwarf Macadamia tree questions (forum)

Jon starts with ...
I'm considering planting a dwarf macadamia tree in eastern Melbourne but I want to know a few things before I start.

Firstly, How big do they get? I have room for about 2-2.5 metres high and 4 metre spread.

Secondly, of what quality are the nuts?

And thirdly, will they grow in Melbourne?

Has anybody else planted one of these trees?

Thank-you,

Jon

Time: 14th January 2009 5:32pm

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About the Author Jon
Melbourne
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John says...
Mine has stayed about 18" tall for nearly a year, so i would think it's not gonna get real big.

No nuts yet.

Time: 15th January 2009 11:55am

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About the Author John20
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Jon says...
So about half a metre? How old is it? Did you get it off Daleys?

Thanks for the reply.

Jon

Time: 15th January 2009 3:27pm

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About the Author Jon
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John says...
Daleys sold it to me...yay !

1 year with me, no idea how long at Daleys.

has very pale leaves, almost white but I am too scared to fertilise. Just use seasol and a little manure.

Time: 15th January 2009 3:44pm

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Jon says...
Thanks for the advice.

Time: 15th January 2009 6:11pm

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Steve says...
I've just ordered some trees for the first time from Daleys and exploring site, and co-incidently just came in from inspecting my one and only macadamia 'tree'. FYI the first one died after about 1 year of TLC (diggers seedling non-grafted) Replaced with one from bunnings in same spot (looks non-grafted but was more advanced) This one has been in 'ideal' posidtion (some shade and sheltered from wind with compost dug in) for about one year also, has not grown at all, leaves have dry areas, does not look too good but still hanging in. Was just about to dig it up and move it but at last noticed some very very small new shoots at the tip of one branch. The 'tree' is only about 12 inch tall. My experience is they seem to be very hard to get established. PS. Have been trying to grow everything organically but about one month ago used Thrive on it twice now - and new shoots mmmm. Hope this helps, love some tips myself too. Will take picture if someone out there thinks it might help. Thanks.

Time: 19th January 2009 10:31am

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About the Author Steve13
Bendigo Vic.
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Jon says...
As you said they seem difficult to get established. A picture would be nice too, but only if you can :)

Does anyone have a full-sized tree and any tips etc?

Jon

Time: 22nd January 2009 12:37pm

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Jon says...
Does anybody from Daleys know how big these grow?

Jon

Time: 26th January 2009 11:26am

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Steve says...
As you can see my tree is really struggling, the leaves are very brown but still have some green. There are very small shoots that you cannot see growing very slowly at the tip of a couple of small branches. I do not know if it will survive but it seems to be responding very slowly to thrive once a week. My tree is not a dwarf and according to my book can grow to 10m high and 8m wide. According to book they also likes blood and bone and potash - probably explains it responding to nitrigen high Thrive.
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Picture: 1

Time: 24th February 2009 11:18am

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Jimmy says...
Blood n bone contains phosphorous, this kills macadamias.

The signs on the leaves are also classic phosphorous poisiong symptoms.

Time: 24th February 2009 1:40pm

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Wayne says...
"Blood n bone contains phosphorous, this kills macadamias. "

That is very interesting to know Jimmy. I think we should keep in mind that Macadamias were once called Queensland nut and that they are native to Australia hence they should be used to growing in harsh conditions. I have always had success with them by neglecting them and water only when they looked stressed. Then again, I live in QLD, but a very wet part of it at the moment.

Time: 24th February 2009 3:48pm

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About the Author Wayne
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Jimmy says...
I grow banksia in my yard with no fert, the macadmaias also grow just as well with them.

its an old trick to heavily use superphospahate as an alternative to clearing native vegetataion where you can't clear legally.

Once its dead, you can burn it and it does not come back.

Note: this is for nortern sand plains in WA.

Time: 25th February 2009 2:03pm

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Steve says...
That's very interesting. I probably did add some blood and bone when I planted as my gardening book suggests the plant "likes" it! Obviously incorrect and it now is quite dead (another $35 tree gone!) So TLC kills them, thanks for the feedback, I'll try again in another spot with no fertilizer. What about a bit of compost?

Time: 22nd March 2009 12:55pm

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paulaf says...
My full grown macadamia tree thrives on neglect too. It even gets waterlogged when we have heavy rain, and dosen't miss a beat. Then only fertiliser it gets, is to steal some when I put some down for the apples.
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Time: 22nd March 2009 4:42pm

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Steve says...
That is a great looking tree Paul, you live in SE Queensland with a different climate. I wounder if the climate in Bendigo Vic may not be helping... Very dry hot summers and cold frosty winters? Has anyone had any success with macadamia's in Vic, or am I just wasting my time and money... Has anyone any thoughts on growing from seed/nut?

Time: 23rd March 2009 10:54am

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Jantina says...
A great looking tree indeed, looks so healthy. Steve I have seen macadamias growing and fruiting in Warrugal Vic. I don't know what their average temps are but I'd imagine that they would get a lot more rain than you. I have 2 macadamias growing here in Mt. Gambier, they are growing nicely (nowhere near as good as paulaf's though) but no nuts yet.

Time: 23rd March 2009 4:42pm

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About the Author Jantina
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Wayne says...
"What about a bit of compost? "

I would say most definitely Steve, I notice the difference to my tree when I put fresh clippings around it

Time: 23rd March 2009 6:01pm

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About the Author Wayne
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Steve says...
Thanks for the feedback, I'll get a couple of new plants and try again! Different spot, no blood & bone a compost mulch and some water..... and that's all there going to get from me!! Lol.

Time: 24th March 2009 7:08am

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Dave says...
Have 6 macadamias growing, seedlings - Daleys. Native, h2, h16, a268,a4.
Native extremely slow growing.
Hawaiian have gone crazy easily 50-60cm over autumn. (from 45cm->1m in autumn)

A268 died off the same as Steve's above but recovered - grew about 20cm.
Lost entire top half of seedling. Sprouted again from everywhere else.
It was only directly exposed plant.

Planted around a large wattle south/easternish side for protection wind, afternoon summer sun.

Have planted corn and other 1m-2m quick growing to offer protection for exposed plants from late afternoon summer sun.

Plants have been staked and surrounded with shade cloth entire height of plant.

Have restaked three times,Initial staked & covered with white feed bags - western side during hottest part of summer. mid summer, late autumn, required again just before start of spring. shade cloth and hardwood stakes

Only tips of plants sticking out of top of shade cloth have died off due to frost. But they have been shooting throughout winter.

Romsey this year has had -5'c nights and a couple of very heavy frosts this past week 21-26 july 2010.

I've selectively fertised with secondary nutrients eg boron magnesium etc. On plants

Couple of times 8-10 handfuls of ordinary el cheapo fertiliser around the area.

Once or twice with seasol (and) soil wetter before late summer on the plants.

Summer/autumn seasol once a week/fortnight.

Keep all the grass away. During summer poured on the water 10-20L every couple of days. winter initially till it started raining then have not water for about 2 months.

They were attacked moth/caterpillar/larvea in autumn, sprayed with detergent tblspoon, vegetable oil 1/3, milk 1/3 and water 1/3 mixture and couple handfuls of talc powder. helped.

Have also sprayed around them a few times with round up, browned off leaves and some lower branches and they have come back.

Each has base about 1m diameter covered in 20cm hay. Kept moist throughout summer and completely soggy in winter.

Have moved the hay away from trunk.



Time: 26th July 2010 5:22pm

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About the Author Dave11
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Dave says...
The native spikey little one appears to have died/not survived the winter and excessively water logged conditions.

The others have taken off surprisingly well, they are starting to permanently lean due to the wind.

They are planted downwind of a large wattle provides great deal of shelter from driving wind/rain/hail/sun.

Anyone know if we can get mac plants that have not had lower branches removed?



Time: 20th December 2010 3:22pm

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Dave says...
They seem to go from having small very dark green shoots, stay dark till the leaves get about 6-10cm long, then go to light green, then as the next shoots come out a flush of deep green comes over the plant and the previous generation of leaves go light green and new are dark green.

Fertilise lightly and water heavy.
basically I fertilise pellets, then about 6 weeks watering and pellet again.

Stopping fertiliser early winter.
Lots fertiliser throughout spring & autumn. Summer mostly water. winter mostly water.

Thought I was going to loose them during depth of winter as they all shed leaves 4/5 or more of plant. Pretty sure it was due to the temps and frost.



Time: 20th December 2010 3:41pm

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mike says...
i have 2 macadamia trees they have been in the ground for 5 years, the plants have straw round them are kept moistin summer,they have 44 gallon drumsaround them to protect them they are higher than them,i feed them seasol,dynamic lifter,the plants are healthy and green,they have grown a foot in 5 years and no flowers,or nuts is there a way to get the flowers to come and how can i do this,

Time: 29th September 2011 10:15pm

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About the Author pistachionuts1
stawell ( victoria)
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Dave says...
Do you have bees/other compatible maca plants around?

From here.
http://blogs.abc.net.au/queensland/2011/06/toms-answers-week-commencing-17-june.html?site=capricornia&program=capricornia_gardening_talkback_with_tom_wyatt

REPLY: Macadamia if a seedling will take 7 to 10 years to flower. Murcotted or grafted should bear within three years. If grafted spray with Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb 30 grams of each to 4.5 litres of water apply monthly until flowering commences. To induce flowering wood apply Sulphate of Potash and Zinc under the canopy spread one clenched handful per sq metre every two months.



Time: 10th October 2011 12:01pm

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Marge says...
I have a macadamia which has grown from seed. I put a few in the garden which is mainly compost, and one has sprouted. It is arount 6" tall at the moment, with dark green foliage. I am not sure if they lose their leaves. I am hoping it keeps growing.

Time: 25th April 2012 4:47pm

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rod26 says...
i work on macadamia farms heat and frost will kill a young tree

Time: 31st August 2012 6:34pm

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nsw
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Microseris says...
Ive had two Macadamias in a shady area of the garden in outer Melbourne growing under a large blackwood for over 10 years. They are both around eight metres tall and have fruited for the last 4 odd years. Both plants are M. integrifolia. I have been surprised as the spot can be very dry but they are tough, although fruit better with a bit of moisture. Rats collect the nuts and hoard them in a bird box. I've even had seedlings pop up.

Time: 26th December 2013 8:22pm

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Jason says...
Microseris, I'm growing hybrids here in Portland. They took about 11 years to start flowering and in the 3 years since then have been increasing in production each year. This year I had about 100 nuts from the two oldest trees and next year looks to be much better again (probably looking at 300 or so nuts from those two trees) plus I have another 2 trees coming into production now. The pure integrifolia trees and those more biased that way seem to be more rounded in shape for me?. Is that true all the time?. tetraphylla biased trees seem much more upright? in saying that all mine that are hybrids have yellow/white flowers. I do have a pure tetraphylla but it's only small and hasn't seemed to have the vigour of the hybrids down here. I haven't had any problem with them regarding heat, even at 47c or frost at -2c. Pretty good trees :).

I planted one cutting grown commercial tree at the same time as the hybrid seedlings. The commercial tree is about 2.5x2.5 meters in size now after 14 years and only flowered for the first time this year. The seedlings are more like 5 x 6 meters or 6 x 3 meters depending on shape and flowered 3 years ago for the first time. Seedlings are the go imho. My seedlings taste as good as nuts from commercial varieties, not all of them are giant nuts though. Some are.. Some not

Time: 26th December 2013 10:09pm

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Original Post was last edited: 26th December 2013 10:08pm

About the Author Jason
Portland
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no one says...
i have 1 macademia tree that has 1 years old ( it is on the picture ).macademia is a new tree in our country and i have nobody to ask about it.can anyone help me to solve it's status.i don't know what is it's problem and what should i do
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Time: 16th November 2015 9:07pm

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About the Author no one
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Manfred says...
It looks OK to me. We need more information about its circumstance.

Macadamias are a rainforest plant but grow in a lot of different situations. In dry frosty areas they can take 100 years to fruit (street trees in Wagga, west of Sydney).

They like a lot of water, but can survive without much. Don't fertilise it anymore. They can tolerate some phosphorous when they are very small, but yours is big enough now not to need it anymore and too much can poison it.

Mulch, mulch, mulch!

Time: 18th November 2015 8:28pm

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About the Author Manfred
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no one says...
tnx a lot manfred

Time: 23rd November 2015 9:54pm

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