Bruce Ramsay starts with ...
I have an large Kensington Pride mango tree, approx. 12metre. In the just competed season I have had a reasonable crop of fruit however ther appears to be a disease causing the leaves to drop and the tips of new branches to die back. When pruned there is a brown discolouration in the affected branches. Q1:- If I prune back to good wood and tree bandage where cut, is there a chance that I can contain this rot? Q2:- Does anyone know what the problem its and cure?
I have an large Kensington Pride mango tree, approx. 12metre. In the just competed season I have had a reasonable crop of fruit however ther appears to be a disease causing the leaves to drop and the tips of new branches to die back. When pruned there is a brown discolouration in the affected branches. Q1:- If I prune back to good wood and tree bandage where cut, is there a chance that I can contain this rot? Q2:- Does anyone know what the problem its and cure?
Bruce Ramsay
Gayndah Queensland
31st January 2008 2:42pm
#UserID: 629
Kath says...
It sounds like anthracnose or black spot, this diseases in the mangos will be a real problem this year because of all the wet weather. Head down to your local agricultural store to see if they can recommend a treatment for you. As we are not licensed to sell chemicals I am afraid I am not allowed to recommend a solution for you.
It sounds like anthracnose or black spot, this diseases in the mangos will be a real problem this year because of all the wet weather. Head down to your local agricultural store to see if they can recommend a treatment for you. As we are not licensed to sell chemicals I am afraid I am not allowed to recommend a solution for you.
Kath
Cawongla
15th February 2008 10:16am
#UserID: 2
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John says...
I have the exact same problem, the leaves turn brown and die off with the branch rotting with what seems to be the bark getting stripped down to teh core. I've been cutting off branches as soon as it appears but does not seem to stop the disease.
Kath, do you know of a good agricultural store in sydney?? flowerpower and bunnings are useless as they know nothing about this sort of stuff.
I have the exact same problem, the leaves turn brown and die off with the branch rotting with what seems to be the bark getting stripped down to teh core. I've been cutting off branches as soon as it appears but does not seem to stop the disease.
Kath, do you know of a good agricultural store in sydney?? flowerpower and bunnings are useless as they know nothing about this sort of stuff.
John
Sydney
15th March 2008 9:56am
#UserID: 773
Maryanne
ashfield sydney
8th October 2008 10:38pm
#UserID: 0
Maryanne
ashfield
8th October 2008 10:39pm
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Wayne
10th October 2008 5:59am
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Steven says...
A dis-ease in any living thing is just that...dis-ease. Mangoes are generally quite hardy. BUT growing them in a location where they will be at-ease is very important. Warm climate, Northern aspect, good drainage etc etc. Even then, such problems will arise...my tree has signs of leaf damage(dry,brown,crispy burnt look) in areas...other parts of the tree are lush and full of growth! This is ones lot growing (sub)/tropical fruit down South.
A dis-ease in any living thing is just that...dis-ease. Mangoes are generally quite hardy. BUT growing them in a location where they will be at-ease is very important. Warm climate, Northern aspect, good drainage etc etc. Even then, such problems will arise...my tree has signs of leaf damage(dry,brown,crispy burnt look) in areas...other parts of the tree are lush and full of growth! This is ones lot growing (sub)/tropical fruit down South.
Steven
Quakers Hill, Sydney
16th October 2008 10:05pm
#UserID: 1527
Jeff says...
Hi, have problem with my mango tree. The leaves are going brown and dry at the ends and then continues to die until they fall off. Also have lots of dead branches in the tree. Got heaps of fruit off it but looks very sick (see photos). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Hi, have problem with my mango tree. The leaves are going brown and dry at the ends and then continues to die until they fall off. Also have lots of dead branches in the tree. Got heaps of fruit off it but looks very sick (see photos). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Jeff
Port Hedland, WA
4th December 2008 3:06pm
#UserID: 1731
Vicki
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 10:18am
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
Hi Vicki and Jeff - I hope your problem is not the same as mine - what kind of water are u irrigating with? I have same problem on mangoes n a few others. I recently had the (scheme) water tested and it's full of chloride. There is quite a bit of sodium (thus: salt) in it too.
These two cause tip burn on leaves that progresses to the margins and eventually death n drop of the leaves. It starts on the oldest leaves and progresses to young ones eventually if bad enough.
Rains will flush the soil and gypsum helps. It's worth getting your water checked (ours above WHO recommendations on a few things - I have complained to water corp - they "looking into it")
Hi Vicki and Jeff - I hope your problem is not the same as mine - what kind of water are u irrigating with? I have same problem on mangoes n a few others. I recently had the (scheme) water tested and it's full of chloride. There is quite a bit of sodium (thus: salt) in it too.
These two cause tip burn on leaves that progresses to the margins and eventually death n drop of the leaves. It starts on the oldest leaves and progresses to young ones eventually if bad enough.
Rains will flush the soil and gypsum helps. It's worth getting your water checked (ours above WHO recommendations on a few things - I have complained to water corp - they "looking into it")
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 10:33am
#UserID: 2309
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amanda says...
PS Vicki - your water is same as mine now..goes right past my house on NWC Hwy!
My soil test showed chloride levels that I am waiting for an agronomist to explain - who did your soil test?
(Jeff - your tree looks burnt on one side? have u had some bad winds? have you tried leaving the hose trickling on it overnight once or twice a week for a few weeks?)
PS Vicki - your water is same as mine now..goes right past my house on NWC Hwy!
My soil test showed chloride levels that I am waiting for an agronomist to explain - who did your soil test?
(Jeff - your tree looks burnt on one side? have u had some bad winds? have you tried leaving the hose trickling on it overnight once or twice a week for a few weeks?)
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 10:40am
#UserID: 2309
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Vicki says...
Amanda, we have our own bore and aren't on scheme water, salt was the first thing we looked into, there is practically no salt in the water. Landmark did the soil and leaf testing. And it showed nothing. We even took the reading up to Carnarvon, to get a mango grower friend have a look, he just wished his soil was as good as ours. At first we thought it was chemical burn, but no body is spraying around us. Not getting enough water is the only thing we can think off, but as you know we have had heaps of rain recently.
Amanda, we have our own bore and aren't on scheme water, salt was the first thing we looked into, there is practically no salt in the water. Landmark did the soil and leaf testing. And it showed nothing. We even took the reading up to Carnarvon, to get a mango grower friend have a look, he just wished his soil was as good as ours. At first we thought it was chemical burn, but no body is spraying around us. Not getting enough water is the only thing we can think off, but as you know we have had heaps of rain recently.
Vicki
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 10:51am
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
Hi Vicki - that's really interesting! As we are so close - we may b having the same problem - are u able to post a photo? I'd love to b able to compare - and I have seen this on someone elses tree in Grenough too.
You are so lucky to have good bore water! Landmark referred me to an agronomist in Perth (who specialises in Horticulture) for interpretation of the results (CSBP test) I am waiting for his input. I am a novice at these - but from what I can gather - what is in the soil is not necessarily what is "available" to the plant - but if your leaf test ok - then that really only leaves mechanical damage (wind)/water stress type issues I would have thought?
Are u close to ocean at all?
My studies on this have turned up deficiencies of magnesium or potassium in the main, with calcium a second option.
I have been giving my 3 KP's a good soaking as I still don't think they are getting enuf' water. They used to flood irrigate in Carnarvon! Don't know if they still do (have an ex-mangoe grower friend from there too!)
Stay in touch won't u - we may be able to get to the bottom of it - and it would b helpful for others. :)
Hi Vicki - that's really interesting! As we are so close - we may b having the same problem - are u able to post a photo? I'd love to b able to compare - and I have seen this on someone elses tree in Grenough too.
You are so lucky to have good bore water! Landmark referred me to an agronomist in Perth (who specialises in Horticulture) for interpretation of the results (CSBP test) I am waiting for his input. I am a novice at these - but from what I can gather - what is in the soil is not necessarily what is "available" to the plant - but if your leaf test ok - then that really only leaves mechanical damage (wind)/water stress type issues I would have thought?
Are u close to ocean at all?
My studies on this have turned up deficiencies of magnesium or potassium in the main, with calcium a second option.
I have been giving my 3 KP's a good soaking as I still don't think they are getting enuf' water. They used to flood irrigate in Carnarvon! Don't know if they still do (have an ex-mangoe grower friend from there too!)
Stay in touch won't u - we may be able to get to the bottom of it - and it would b helpful for others. :)
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 11:09am
#UserID: 2309
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Vicki says...
Will take some photo's later today. We have also thought wind, they only get the southerly, today is blowing easterly, and the trees that get hammered with the easterly aren't affected. Last summer we gave them plenty of water and they improved, but with winter rains, stopped watering, put them on for about 4 hours yesterday. And we are right in town, so not getting ocean winds or salt, we fertilise with NPK blue and Urea, we alternate, our friend in Cvon also gave us a bag of what he uses there, but not sure what that is made up off. We also spray for anthracnose, at the moment we do this every 3 weeks. Our trees are from 10 - 12 years old. It has really only been this bad since we went into drought, what would that be the last 5/6 years. None of the other trees are affected like this. The chain saw will be sharpened up if they don't start improving. It is good talking to some one close by, who understands the wind, water and soil of this area. When I have phone ag dept ususally get told to phone Kununurra who's soil, wind and water probs are nothing like here. There was a great guy in Cvon but he retired and only does consult work now, but what he didn't know wasn't worth knowing
Will take some photo's later today. We have also thought wind, they only get the southerly, today is blowing easterly, and the trees that get hammered with the easterly aren't affected. Last summer we gave them plenty of water and they improved, but with winter rains, stopped watering, put them on for about 4 hours yesterday. And we are right in town, so not getting ocean winds or salt, we fertilise with NPK blue and Urea, we alternate, our friend in Cvon also gave us a bag of what he uses there, but not sure what that is made up off. We also spray for anthracnose, at the moment we do this every 3 weeks. Our trees are from 10 - 12 years old. It has really only been this bad since we went into drought, what would that be the last 5/6 years. None of the other trees are affected like this. The chain saw will be sharpened up if they don't start improving. It is good talking to some one close by, who understands the wind, water and soil of this area. When I have phone ag dept ususally get told to phone Kununurra who's soil, wind and water probs are nothing like here. There was a great guy in Cvon but he retired and only does consult work now, but what he didn't know wasn't worth knowing
Vicki
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 12:12pm
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
Hi again Vicki - what was the soil salt level on your results? (mine "Intermediate") Did u fertilise before you turned retic off? When did u fert last? Have u put anything else on them at all? Are the affected trees in any way different as to slope, at end of retic line, front-line sun/wind?
I'm thinking of a temporary fertiliser "salts" (not NaCl) build up combined with inadequate water that may have caused a reverse-osmosis (ie: water coming out of the plant due to high salts in soil and low salts in plants)
I tend to fert in winter mainly cos it's cool for me :) and the rain is helpful for when i renovate the mulch. I have been wondering tho' about something Speedy mentioned about watering thru' the rain (initially) as salt gets washed back into the root zone (by the rain) causing this kind of damage. The idea is to flush it away into the subsoil. (Perhaps my trees are getting a double-whammy!?)
When I say "salt" - this can also be fertiliser salts.
Perhaps with the extra dry conditions it would be preferable to fert little and often, and water well.
I will ask agronomist too (Jeff - I have posted your photo to him too)
Maybe we could ask Speedy too.
Hi again Vicki - what was the soil salt level on your results? (mine "Intermediate") Did u fertilise before you turned retic off? When did u fert last? Have u put anything else on them at all? Are the affected trees in any way different as to slope, at end of retic line, front-line sun/wind?
I'm thinking of a temporary fertiliser "salts" (not NaCl) build up combined with inadequate water that may have caused a reverse-osmosis (ie: water coming out of the plant due to high salts in soil and low salts in plants)
I tend to fert in winter mainly cos it's cool for me :) and the rain is helpful for when i renovate the mulch. I have been wondering tho' about something Speedy mentioned about watering thru' the rain (initially) as salt gets washed back into the root zone (by the rain) causing this kind of damage. The idea is to flush it away into the subsoil. (Perhaps my trees are getting a double-whammy!?)
When I say "salt" - this can also be fertiliser salts.
Perhaps with the extra dry conditions it would be preferable to fert little and often, and water well.
I will ask agronomist too (Jeff - I have posted your photo to him too)
Maybe we could ask Speedy too.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 3:50pm
#UserID: 2309
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Vicki says...
Me again, ok have done some pics, the salt content in the soil was minimal, we don't over fertilise, and when we do we don't give them heaps at once, we gradually do it. And we look at the trees to see whether we think they need fertilising, ie the colour of the tree, pale green rather than dark green. And as for a pattern there is not one, there can be a crap tree and next to it can be 4 good ones and other way round. 20 feet away is a different patch and they are beautiful looking trees. We had previously mulched the trees, it is just about disolved at the moment.
Vicki
Me again, ok have done some pics, the salt content in the soil was minimal, we don't over fertilise, and when we do we don't give them heaps at once, we gradually do it. And we look at the trees to see whether we think they need fertilising, ie the colour of the tree, pale green rather than dark green. And as for a pattern there is not one, there can be a crap tree and next to it can be 4 good ones and other way round. 20 feet away is a different patch and they are beautiful looking trees. We had previously mulched the trees, it is just about disolved at the moment.
Vicki
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 Picture: 1 | ||
Vicki
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 5:04pm
#UserID: 2608
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 7:27pm
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Vicki says...
Aaron was the agronomist that came and visited us, he actually told us it was salt, but there was little salt (around 400 per million grains) in the water, and then why are they the only ones suffering if you look 20 ft away the trees are going mad,the pic taken is if you look to the right are the sick trees and to the left are as healthy as any thing, same water same fertiliser. So has us stumped
Aaron was the agronomist that came and visited us, he actually told us it was salt, but there was little salt (around 400 per million grains) in the water, and then why are they the only ones suffering if you look 20 ft away the trees are going mad,the pic taken is if you look to the right are the sick trees and to the left are as healthy as any thing, same water same fertiliser. So has us stumped
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Vicki
Northampton WA
2nd August 2009 8:18pm
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
Yea - see what u mean Vicki! I honestly don't know - my only suggestions are to check/measure the output of the drippers/sprayers (use bucket or such) to make certain they (sick ones) are getting the same amount of water compared to the others.
I have divined the water running under our block and it's quite obvious where it is and isn't (easy to do yourself) I do wonder tho' if the ground water is suffering with this drought - it can make all the difference to the survival of some trees.
It's a long shot but maybe the guys on the right are 'missing out' due to levels dropping. I know there has been problems with this in Northampton and my area too.
You may want to try a slow trickle on one sick tree - leave overnight a cupla times a week for a few weeks and see what happens to new growth and the presently un-burnt growth. It could b a worthwhile experiment.
Yea - see what u mean Vicki! I honestly don't know - my only suggestions are to check/measure the output of the drippers/sprayers (use bucket or such) to make certain they (sick ones) are getting the same amount of water compared to the others.
I have divined the water running under our block and it's quite obvious where it is and isn't (easy to do yourself) I do wonder tho' if the ground water is suffering with this drought - it can make all the difference to the survival of some trees.
It's a long shot but maybe the guys on the right are 'missing out' due to levels dropping. I know there has been problems with this in Northampton and my area too.
You may want to try a slow trickle on one sick tree - leave overnight a cupla times a week for a few weeks and see what happens to new growth and the presently un-burnt growth. It could b a worthwhile experiment.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 8:43pm
#UserID: 2309
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
2nd August 2009 8:48pm
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - me again! ... I have done some more googling but keep turning up the same stuff (apart from salinity)...magnesium or potassium deficiency.... also of interest is that excess nitrogen is antagonistic to potassium uptake - giving similar symptoms. It might pay to drop the Urea from the sick ones for awhile?
This is something I have copied out of one site:
Irrigation management and drainage are important factors in minimising salt build-up in the root zone. Salting of orchards in inland irrigation areas can occur when the salt-laden groundwater table rises towards the tree roots. Another cause is the concentration of salt into the ‘dry bone’ areas of the rows, particularly unwetted areas under the trees where furrow irrigation is practised. Faulty distribution of water from spray irrigation systems because of low pressure, strong winds, or too few spray heads, is another way that salt accumulates in localised areas.
I am really keen to see if your drippers/sprayers are distributing evenly and same volume. I won't post my e-mail here - but maybe thru Correy (webmaster) we could get in touch? It would b great to solve this problem as we 'know' what we are on about with our conditions here ;)
I really do believe there is a 'burn' mechanism of some sort involved tho' - either 'salt' or lack of water etc...
Sorry about long posts - I just haven't come across anyone (yet) with the same problem. I am tenacious if nothing else and determined to sort this out...!
Hi Vicki - me again! ... I have done some more googling but keep turning up the same stuff (apart from salinity)...magnesium or potassium deficiency.... also of interest is that excess nitrogen is antagonistic to potassium uptake - giving similar symptoms. It might pay to drop the Urea from the sick ones for awhile?
This is something I have copied out of one site:
Irrigation management and drainage are important factors in minimising salt build-up in the root zone. Salting of orchards in inland irrigation areas can occur when the salt-laden groundwater table rises towards the tree roots. Another cause is the concentration of salt into the ‘dry bone’ areas of the rows, particularly unwetted areas under the trees where furrow irrigation is practised. Faulty distribution of water from spray irrigation systems because of low pressure, strong winds, or too few spray heads, is another way that salt accumulates in localised areas.
I am really keen to see if your drippers/sprayers are distributing evenly and same volume. I won't post my e-mail here - but maybe thru Correy (webmaster) we could get in touch? It would b great to solve this problem as we 'know' what we are on about with our conditions here ;)
I really do believe there is a 'burn' mechanism of some sort involved tho' - either 'salt' or lack of water etc...
Sorry about long posts - I just haven't come across anyone (yet) with the same problem. I am tenacious if nothing else and determined to sort this out...!
amanda
Geraldton. WA
3rd August 2009 12:30am
#UserID: 2309
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I popped into ThinkWater in Gero 2day to ask about bore water...the conversion table converts 400 grains/gallon to nearly 7,000 mg/L (or ppm)total dissolved solids. To compare with Gero town water at 1,000 mg/L. The upper limit for humans is 1,100 and horses (for eg) 5,500. Unfortunately plants don't have kidneys so accumulate salts in the bark and leaves.
It may be really worthwhile getting a water testing kit ($66) from them and finding out what exactly is in your bore water (as 400 grains is equivalent to 20% seawater!)
I realise that some trees ok - but if the drippers/sprayers are not working properly etc then this could make all the difference..also if soil has become water repellant under the sick one's etc.
I hope this is of some use..I can't think what else it could be? Did u get the actual sick leaves tested?
Hi Vicki - I popped into ThinkWater in Gero 2day to ask about bore water...the conversion table converts 400 grains/gallon to nearly 7,000 mg/L (or ppm)total dissolved solids. To compare with Gero town water at 1,000 mg/L. The upper limit for humans is 1,100 and horses (for eg) 5,500. Unfortunately plants don't have kidneys so accumulate salts in the bark and leaves.
It may be really worthwhile getting a water testing kit ($66) from them and finding out what exactly is in your bore water (as 400 grains is equivalent to 20% seawater!)
I realise that some trees ok - but if the drippers/sprayers are not working properly etc then this could make all the difference..also if soil has become water repellant under the sick one's etc.
I hope this is of some use..I can't think what else it could be? Did u get the actual sick leaves tested?
amanda
Geraldton. WA
3rd August 2009 6:43pm
#UserID: 2309
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I hope u r still out there? See above - but also I found this amazing document - it's a bit heavy in some parts but there is a few gems of info in there (see section 4) Mangoes are salt sensitive like citrus (and almost all fruit trees) - so the leaf anlaysis should translate.
http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0234e/T0234E03.htm
Hi Vicki - I hope u r still out there? See above - but also I found this amazing document - it's a bit heavy in some parts but there is a few gems of info in there (see section 4) Mangoes are salt sensitive like citrus (and almost all fruit trees) - so the leaf anlaysis should translate.
http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0234e/T0234E03.htm
amanda
Geraldton. WA
6th August 2009 10:16am
#UserID: 2309
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John
Sydney
8th August 2009 3:46pm
#UserID: 0
amanda
Geraldton. WA
9th August 2009 9:33am
#UserID: 2309
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff n Vicki...Mum reminded me 2day about her mangoe tree outside their bathroom - they had the shower water diverted to the plant permanently..It grew at an amazing rate (in high wind in Carnarvon)...and fruited really well. (was an R2E2).
Grey water is pretty low quality - so maybe our problems are just a lack of water? I am going to up the ante on mine this summer..will post pics one day!
Hi Jeff n Vicki...Mum reminded me 2day about her mangoe tree outside their bathroom - they had the shower water diverted to the plant permanently..It grew at an amazing rate (in high wind in Carnarvon)...and fruited really well. (was an R2E2).
Grey water is pretty low quality - so maybe our problems are just a lack of water? I am going to up the ante on mine this summer..will post pics one day!
amanda
Geraldton. WA
9th August 2009 6:06pm
#UserID: 2309
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nike64 says...
I have a mango tree which is 1/2 a year old and it looks bad. What disease does it have and what is a solution?
P.S. I originally thought it was a iron deficiency
P.P.S. Has it got something to do with my location, season etc.
P.P.P.S. All the new leaves/ shoots have turned black at the tip!
I have a mango tree which is 1/2 a year old and it looks bad. What disease does it have and what is a solution?
P.S. I originally thought it was a iron deficiency
P.P.S. Has it got something to do with my location, season etc.
P.P.P.S. All the new leaves/ shoots have turned black at the tip!
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nike64
Altona, VIC
14th August 2009 7:21pm
#UserID: 2663
nike64
Altona, VIC
14th August 2009 7:25pm
#UserID: 2663
JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi nike64,
I think the cold weather affects your mango tree. Spring is just around the corner so hopefully your tree will grow back with new shoots coming out.
If I was you I would give it plenty of dynamic lifter in mid Spring to make it grow stronger before the next winter comes.
All the best.
Hi nike64,
I think the cold weather affects your mango tree. Spring is just around the corner so hopefully your tree will grow back with new shoots coming out.
If I was you I would give it plenty of dynamic lifter in mid Spring to make it grow stronger before the next winter comes.
All the best.
JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE
Melbourne
14th August 2009 7:58pm
#UserID: 2706
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amanda says...
Hi nike64 - your tree looks nitrogen deficient.... try giving it a bit of manure or fertiliser - not too much as the weather is too cold for any real growth yet and water well - clear the weeds around the tree a bit wider than you have now. If u haven't added any nitrogen source at planting then that woodchip may be causing nitrogen deficiency.
Hi nike64 - your tree looks nitrogen deficient.... try giving it a bit of manure or fertiliser - not too much as the weather is too cold for any real growth yet and water well - clear the weeds around the tree a bit wider than you have now. If u haven't added any nitrogen source at planting then that woodchip may be causing nitrogen deficiency.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
15th August 2009 9:17am
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nike64 says...
O.K. I got rid of the mulch and got rid of more weeds. My dad thought I should use grass clippings instead of the wood and I discovered some Thrive Soluble Plant Food with 19.31 percent Nitrogen. Also we have some compost. Would all this be ok?
(I know this is off topic but Im also going to grow another tree from seed and I need a germination method cause last year it failed!)
O.K. I got rid of the mulch and got rid of more weeds. My dad thought I should use grass clippings instead of the wood and I discovered some Thrive Soluble Plant Food with 19.31 percent Nitrogen. Also we have some compost. Would all this be ok?
(I know this is off topic but Im also going to grow another tree from seed and I need a germination method cause last year it failed!)
nike64
Altona, VIC
15th August 2009 12:20pm
#UserID: 2663
nike64
Altona, VIC
15th August 2009 1:16pm
#UserID: 2663
John says...
I went to a nursery but I could not find any bordeaux/kocide but I found a product called Mancozeb.It seems to say all the right things on the label. Is it ok? I will try it for the comming season but I am concerned the tree may already be too diseased. If it doesnt work perhaps next year I could heavily prune the tree to get rid of most of the disease and ensure I spray all new foliage.
I went to a nursery but I could not find any bordeaux/kocide but I found a product called Mancozeb.It seems to say all the right things on the label. Is it ok? I will try it for the comming season but I am concerned the tree may already be too diseased. If it doesnt work perhaps next year I could heavily prune the tree to get rid of most of the disease and ensure I spray all new foliage.
John
Sydney
16th August 2009 1:13pm
#UserID: 2671
Julie says...
John,it depends if you are trying to grow organically. If so, this would be a no-no. Mancozeb is a commonly used fungicide for this purpose.
Mangoes are notorious for anthracnose, which is what your symptoms sound like, though I think there some more resistant varieties around.
Anthracnose can be caused by wet conditions around flowering and fruit set. You will have to spray every four weeks till harvest.
John,it depends if you are trying to grow organically. If so, this would be a no-no. Mancozeb is a commonly used fungicide for this purpose.
Mangoes are notorious for anthracnose, which is what your symptoms sound like, though I think there some more resistant varieties around.
Anthracnose can be caused by wet conditions around flowering and fruit set. You will have to spray every four weeks till harvest.
Julie
Roleystone WA
16th August 2009 3:22pm
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John
Sydney
17th August 2009 12:19pm
#UserID: 2671
Julie says...
'Till harvest' means up to when you pick the fruit, so yes, I guess so. From 'What Garden Pest or Disease is That?':
'The fungus lives in dead parts of the plant, and spores are spread from these areas to leaves, fruit and flowers by water splash.
Prune off all dead plant parts. Spray with Mancozeb at the rate of 2g per litre every week while the blossoms are on the tree, then every four weeks until harvest. If weather is dry when the plant blossoms, fewer sprays may be required'.
'Till harvest' means up to when you pick the fruit, so yes, I guess so. From 'What Garden Pest or Disease is That?':
'The fungus lives in dead parts of the plant, and spores are spread from these areas to leaves, fruit and flowers by water splash.
Prune off all dead plant parts. Spray with Mancozeb at the rate of 2g per litre every week while the blossoms are on the tree, then every four weeks until harvest. If weather is dry when the plant blossoms, fewer sprays may be required'.
Julie
Roleystone WA
17th August 2009 6:17pm
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
17th August 2009 9:30pm
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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE
Melbourne
17th August 2009 9:46pm
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
17th August 2009 9:58pm
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Melbourne
17th August 2009 10:10pm
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Paul says...
Hi,
I have a problem with a mango tree that is few years old. Currently in a pot, looking to put into the ground very soon if possible. The stem looks ok, although it doesn't sit very firmly in the pot. We've had a fair bit of wind and rain in the last few weeks, but this problem has been around for a month or so now.
All the leaves seem to be affected, turning brown/black and dying... there are some black marks on the branches too.
I've been looking at the photos posted here so far, but none seem to quite match what i'm seeing.
Is this anthracnose? Should I be removing all the leaves and cutting back the branches? (there may not be much left!!)
thanks very much,
Paul
Hi,
I have a problem with a mango tree that is few years old. Currently in a pot, looking to put into the ground very soon if possible. The stem looks ok, although it doesn't sit very firmly in the pot. We've had a fair bit of wind and rain in the last few weeks, but this problem has been around for a month or so now.
All the leaves seem to be affected, turning brown/black and dying... there are some black marks on the branches too.
I've been looking at the photos posted here so far, but none seem to quite match what i'm seeing.
Is this anthracnose? Should I be removing all the leaves and cutting back the branches? (there may not be much left!!)
thanks very much,
Paul
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
 Picture: 4 | ||
Paul
Perth
18th August 2009 4:56pm
#UserID: 2685
amanda says...
Hi Paul...if it were my tree I would bin it and the soil it's in...and then plant a new, healthy tree straight into the ground. It will take a lot of effort to make the one above into a healthy tree again (and a lot of chemicals too)
It's an advanced fungal infection (probly due to waterlogging - did u have a dish under the pot?) and the soil may transmit the disease to your garden too. But - lets see what others think..? :)
Hi Paul...if it were my tree I would bin it and the soil it's in...and then plant a new, healthy tree straight into the ground. It will take a lot of effort to make the one above into a healthy tree again (and a lot of chemicals too)
It's an advanced fungal infection (probly due to waterlogging - did u have a dish under the pot?) and the soil may transmit the disease to your garden too. But - lets see what others think..? :)
amanda
Geraldton. WA
18th August 2009 5:21pm
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Paul
Perth
18th August 2009 7:28pm
#UserID: 2685
Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
18th August 2009 8:52pm
#UserID: 2684
Paul says...
Hi Cuong,
The ideal mango variety for me, is one that will give me mangos and won't die!
I'm new at this, so ideally I'd like to get *any* success.
Would it be ok to post up pictures of my other fruit trees, and see what you guys think? eg, I have a custard apple that won't grow up.
cheers
Paul
Hi Cuong,
The ideal mango variety for me, is one that will give me mangos and won't die!
I'm new at this, so ideally I'd like to get *any* success.
Would it be ok to post up pictures of my other fruit trees, and see what you guys think? eg, I have a custard apple that won't grow up.
cheers
Paul
Paul
Perth
18th August 2009 9:50pm
#UserID: 2685
Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
19th August 2009 12:25am
#UserID: 2684
Vicki says...
Hi Amanda,
My computer crashed and have just got it back, have just gone thru all old posts. We are thinking the sad trees must be water deprived, although these trees got more water than others, it mustn't been getting enough. And because they were not the healthiest, when the winter diseases came in they copped the lot. Hubby has been spraying them for anthracnose and giving them a bit more than the other trees, still looking a bit sadder than the others. Will see how they go when the weather improves.
Vicki
Hi Amanda,
My computer crashed and have just got it back, have just gone thru all old posts. We are thinking the sad trees must be water deprived, although these trees got more water than others, it mustn't been getting enough. And because they were not the healthiest, when the winter diseases came in they copped the lot. Hubby has been spraying them for anthracnose and giving them a bit more than the other trees, still looking a bit sadder than the others. Will see how they go when the weather improves.
Vicki
Vicki
Northampton
27th August 2009 11:19am
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
No prob's Vicki - wondered where u got to!? In your pic above it looks like grass clippings around the tree?
Also - did u dig around the plants to check soil not water repellant?
It's bloody frustrating isn't it!? I am having trouble getting my mangoes up n running too...something just not right here...and yet other fruit trees doing really well. Goodluck hey...if u crack the problem let me know please!! :)
No prob's Vicki - wondered where u got to!? In your pic above it looks like grass clippings around the tree?
Also - did u dig around the plants to check soil not water repellant?
It's bloody frustrating isn't it!? I am having trouble getting my mangoes up n running too...something just not right here...and yet other fruit trees doing really well. Goodluck hey...if u crack the problem let me know please!! :)
amanda
Geraldton. WA
27th August 2009 10:30pm
#UserID: 2309
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Vicki says...
Hello again, not grass at bottom of the trees but barley mulch. Soil around trees is nice and damp, have dug down fair way and moisture getting there. A couple of years ago we were having water probs (not much there) but put a new bore down and now have plenty, but when the worry was there we cut back on the watering, which may have caused trees to go back wards. But the past couple of years they have been getting the water, although hubby says they still need more, but still only that patch of about 75 trees. All other trees looking good, a little bit of anthracnose but it is to be expected with the wind and cold. But we will wait until spring see how they go. We get a magazine from the Mango Assoc, there was an article about another disease which is similar but they didn't say what to use on it. Will check out there web site and see if any thing on it.
vicki
Hello again, not grass at bottom of the trees but barley mulch. Soil around trees is nice and damp, have dug down fair way and moisture getting there. A couple of years ago we were having water probs (not much there) but put a new bore down and now have plenty, but when the worry was there we cut back on the watering, which may have caused trees to go back wards. But the past couple of years they have been getting the water, although hubby says they still need more, but still only that patch of about 75 trees. All other trees looking good, a little bit of anthracnose but it is to be expected with the wind and cold. But we will wait until spring see how they go. We get a magazine from the Mango Assoc, there was an article about another disease which is similar but they didn't say what to use on it. Will check out there web site and see if any thing on it.
vicki
Vicki
Northampton
28th August 2009 2:00am
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
Hey Vicki - the guys at CRT (Great Northern Rural) were telling me that unless the bore water under 130 grains - then u can get a build up of salts over a period of time - maybe worth filing away for next years break-of-season... and "water thru" the first rains on a few trees to see if it makes a difference. I am going to try this next year for my trees (it's gonna be hard tho'... it goes against everything we are told to do in order to conserve water...!?)
One scientific source I read also talked about salt being stored in the bark and tissues of the trees...all ok until tree water stressed - then tree suddenly 'burns'. Trees will take up sodium in excess if there is low potassium also. I also read info on lack of nitrogen aggravating sodium uptake.
This may not be your problem - but it's interesting info I guess. Your trees look really healthy apart from the burning - but I can also add that I have had problems with anthracnose all thru my grevillias over the last 2 yrs...(I don't treat it as they don't seem bothered by it as yet) According to Kerry at Yetna - it's been a common problem lately.
Hey Vicki - the guys at CRT (Great Northern Rural) were telling me that unless the bore water under 130 grains - then u can get a build up of salts over a period of time - maybe worth filing away for next years break-of-season... and "water thru" the first rains on a few trees to see if it makes a difference. I am going to try this next year for my trees (it's gonna be hard tho'... it goes against everything we are told to do in order to conserve water...!?)
One scientific source I read also talked about salt being stored in the bark and tissues of the trees...all ok until tree water stressed - then tree suddenly 'burns'. Trees will take up sodium in excess if there is low potassium also. I also read info on lack of nitrogen aggravating sodium uptake.
This may not be your problem - but it's interesting info I guess. Your trees look really healthy apart from the burning - but I can also add that I have had problems with anthracnose all thru my grevillias over the last 2 yrs...(I don't treat it as they don't seem bothered by it as yet) According to Kerry at Yetna - it's been a common problem lately.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
28th August 2009 6:39pm
#UserID: 2309
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Vicki says...
I mentioned the book that we get thru Mango assos, got new one on Friday and they have an article on exactly what our trees are looking like. It is called Bacterial necrosis. There was article on it in a previous magazine but didn't say what the cure was, this one trials were done in WA just north of Perth (Gin Gin?). About to do some googling. Will let you know.
Vicki
I mentioned the book that we get thru Mango assos, got new one on Friday and they have an article on exactly what our trees are looking like. It is called Bacterial necrosis. There was article on it in a previous magazine but didn't say what the cure was, this one trials were done in WA just north of Perth (Gin Gin?). About to do some googling. Will let you know.
Vicki
Vicki
Northampton
29th August 2009 10:50am
#UserID: 2608
amanda says...
That's great Vicki! Thanks heaps - I will google too.... haven't read about that b4 (not in association with mangoes anyway) The Ag dept will probably be very keen to look at samples of your leaves for free if u send some down to Perth:
Pest and Disease Information Service:
1800 084 881
They were very thorough with my passionfruit virus specimens - even sent them off the Curtin Uni for anlaysis.
That's great Vicki! Thanks heaps - I will google too.... haven't read about that b4 (not in association with mangoes anyway) The Ag dept will probably be very keen to look at samples of your leaves for free if u send some down to Perth:
Pest and Disease Information Service:
1800 084 881
They were very thorough with my passionfruit virus specimens - even sent them off the Curtin Uni for anlaysis.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
29th August 2009 11:07am
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
30th August 2009 12:38pm
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Vicki
Northampton
31st August 2009 11:10am
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
31st August 2009 5:03pm
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Michael says...
Hi All,
I live in suburbian Sydney and all the mango trees are in full bloom right now . Last year my tree only produce 3 mangoes from such a large tree. I did remember is was a very wet summer last year. To all the mango expert out there is there anything we can do to get higher mango yields ? ie like adding certain trace elements to the water,fertilise at certain times or maybe just increase the water supply .Please help ?
Hi All,
I live in suburbian Sydney and all the mango trees are in full bloom right now . Last year my tree only produce 3 mangoes from such a large tree. I did remember is was a very wet summer last year. To all the mango expert out there is there anything we can do to get higher mango yields ? ie like adding certain trace elements to the water,fertilise at certain times or maybe just increase the water supply .Please help ?
Michael
Wakeley
31st August 2009 10:44pm
#UserID: 0
Ellen
Smithfield
1st September 2009 12:49am
#UserID: 0
nike64
Altona, VIC
6th September 2009 2:35pm
#UserID: 2663
John
Castle Hill NSW
9th September 2009 12:36pm
#UserID: 2671
Wayne says...
I wouldn't worry about them John, all mango trees are early this year, we already have fruit on the market from the NT.
The tree will reject them if things aren't right. I don't know where Castle Hill is but northern NSW should harvest around February I think. Take about three months off that and that's when you tree should be flowering.
I wouldn't worry about them John, all mango trees are early this year, we already have fruit on the market from the NT.
The tree will reject them if things aren't right. I don't know where Castle Hill is but northern NSW should harvest around February I think. Take about three months off that and that's when you tree should be flowering.
Wayne
Mackay QLD
9th September 2009 5:48pm
#UserID: 338
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John
Castle Hill NSW
10th September 2009 12:10pm
#UserID: 2671
Michael
Wakeley
10th September 2009 8:56pm
#UserID: 1746
Michael
Wakeley
10th September 2009 9:06pm
#UserID: 1746
Wayne
Mackay QLD
11th September 2009 7:02am
#UserID: 338
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John
Castle Hill NSW
11th September 2009 6:36pm
#UserID: 2671
John I. says...
Well I have sprayed Mancozeb once a week for 6 weeks. I will now move to once a month until harvest. Its starting to look promising. Of course some of the damaged branches and leaves are still there but there is a lot of new growth and flowers are really coming out now. There has not been a lot of rain so the spray has been very effective. I will keep you posted from time to time.
Well I have sprayed Mancozeb once a week for 6 weeks. I will now move to once a month until harvest. Its starting to look promising. Of course some of the damaged branches and leaves are still there but there is a lot of new growth and flowers are really coming out now. There has not been a lot of rain so the spray has been very effective. I will keep you posted from time to time.
John I.
Castle Hill NSW
19th September 2009 3:00pm
#UserID: 2671
nike64
Altona, VIC
10th October 2009 8:26pm
#UserID: 2663
Michael says...
I'm not sure if this would work but for every mango branch with tiny fruits on it I only leave 5 fruits at the most. I figured that if there are less fruits on the branch then the remaining ones will have a better chance to grow bigger and stronger.Last year I have so many tiny mangoes on each branch and they all grew to around a plum size and just drop off. Only a few survived into full mango sizes.
I'm not sure if this would work but for every mango branch with tiny fruits on it I only leave 5 fruits at the most. I figured that if there are less fruits on the branch then the remaining ones will have a better chance to grow bigger and stronger.Last year I have so many tiny mangoes on each branch and they all grew to around a plum size and just drop off. Only a few survived into full mango sizes.
Michael
Wakeley
14th October 2009 12:58pm
#UserID: 1746
nike64
Altona, VIC
16th October 2009 7:58pm
#UserID: 2663
nike64
Altona, VIC
16th October 2009 7:59pm
#UserID: 2663
Wayne
Mackay QLD
16th October 2009 8:44pm
#UserID: 338
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Kevin says...
Hey guys,
I recently bought a Rosigold mango tree from a nursery in Orlando. It is about a meter tall and a year and a half old according to the nursery. I noticed it has some black spots on some of the leaves and stem. I was wondering if you could tell me if you think they are indicative of some kind of fungus/disease/pest. I uploaded some pictures to a website to save you time downloading them. You can click on them to see them in high resolution.
The tree is currently located in Tampa.
website: http://kevinsmangotree.blogspot.com/
Thanks so much for your help!!!!
Hey guys,
I recently bought a Rosigold mango tree from a nursery in Orlando. It is about a meter tall and a year and a half old according to the nursery. I noticed it has some black spots on some of the leaves and stem. I was wondering if you could tell me if you think they are indicative of some kind of fungus/disease/pest. I uploaded some pictures to a website to save you time downloading them. You can click on them to see them in high resolution.
The tree is currently located in Tampa.
website: http://kevinsmangotree.blogspot.com/
Thanks so much for your help!!!!
Kevin
Tampa, FL
24th October 2009 4:12am
#UserID: 2938
Brendan says...
Hi Kevin,
Being in a pot it's hard to say, but my guess is anthracnose. Without spraying (?), I'd apply some gypsum to the pot and water it in. If you can get liquid gypsum, even better.
Maybe a good time to re-pot it, making sure you remove ALL the old potting mix. Use a premium potting mix and a pot 1/3 larger.
Hi Kevin,
Being in a pot it's hard to say, but my guess is anthracnose. Without spraying (?), I'd apply some gypsum to the pot and water it in. If you can get liquid gypsum, even better.
Maybe a good time to re-pot it, making sure you remove ALL the old potting mix. Use a premium potting mix and a pot 1/3 larger.
Brendan
Mackay, Q
24th October 2009 7:40am
#UserID: 1947
Claudine says...
Hiya, i have a mango tree i bought in k-mart nursery in Karratha W.A. 2004,it didnt have a tag telling me the type, so im unsure.it was around 50cm tall,when i bought it.it was just thin and bendy for a long time and reaching for the sun,i moved back to perth in 2006 and cut the trunk in half, hoping for the best,and this made it branch finally! and with water only really,i have just started to give it a bit more 'love'in the last year, with a bit of liquid trive.it has been going really well since, still in a pot, but now is browning on the edges of the leaves and has started to get dark purple/black branches,starting to flower,but dont think they are looking too good and wont stay on for long. it has never given me fruit and as i LOVE MANGO it would be fantastic to actually grow my own! Please help, it is my pride and joy, id hate for it to die.
Hiya, i have a mango tree i bought in k-mart nursery in Karratha W.A. 2004,it didnt have a tag telling me the type, so im unsure.it was around 50cm tall,when i bought it.it was just thin and bendy for a long time and reaching for the sun,i moved back to perth in 2006 and cut the trunk in half, hoping for the best,and this made it branch finally! and with water only really,i have just started to give it a bit more 'love'in the last year, with a bit of liquid trive.it has been going really well since, still in a pot, but now is browning on the edges of the leaves and has started to get dark purple/black branches,starting to flower,but dont think they are looking too good and wont stay on for long. it has never given me fruit and as i LOVE MANGO it would be fantastic to actually grow my own! Please help, it is my pride and joy, id hate for it to die.
Claudine
Australia
1st November 2009 1:14pm
#UserID: 2966
Wayne
Mackay QLD
1st November 2009 5:56pm
#UserID: 338
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Claudine says...
thanks for the reply wayne! im not too sure that that is the problem as i did actually re pot it about 6months ago and the root system was actually not too big, it still had plenty of room in the pot it was in previously too,and this one is much larger...ill add some pictures, maybe that might give you a better idea. the pictures of the leaves that are on 'Pauls' post are acctually similar and ive just discovered little white bugs with lots of little hairy legs around the new growth, so maybe it needs a spray of some sort??? might be a few things wrong??
thanks for the reply wayne! im not too sure that that is the problem as i did actually re pot it about 6months ago and the root system was actually not too big, it still had plenty of room in the pot it was in previously too,and this one is much larger...ill add some pictures, maybe that might give you a better idea. the pictures of the leaves that are on 'Pauls' post are acctually similar and ive just discovered little white bugs with lots of little hairy legs around the new growth, so maybe it needs a spray of some sort??? might be a few things wrong??
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
 Picture: 4 |  Picture: 5 | |
Claudine
Australia
1st November 2009 9:11pm
#UserID: 2966
Wayne says...
Well, there you go Claudine, I was wrong. Pic 2 suggests the tree is wanting fertiliser, I'm now using Terra Foska TE. The rest of the pics suggest that the tree is suffering badly with Anthracnose, a common Mango tree problem. Because the tree is flowering spray with Mancozeb and once the flowering has ceased and the fruit sets add copper oxichloride to the mix, spray once a week using a wetting agent. I have resorted to using an un-scented liquid soap because I can't get a wetting agent in small quantities here.
Perhaps spread a little dolomite around under the tree as well. The little white bugs are aphids, you can get a spray at the nursery or hardware store to kill them.
Cheers
Well, there you go Claudine, I was wrong. Pic 2 suggests the tree is wanting fertiliser, I'm now using Terra Foska TE. The rest of the pics suggest that the tree is suffering badly with Anthracnose, a common Mango tree problem. Because the tree is flowering spray with Mancozeb and once the flowering has ceased and the fruit sets add copper oxichloride to the mix, spray once a week using a wetting agent. I have resorted to using an un-scented liquid soap because I can't get a wetting agent in small quantities here.
Perhaps spread a little dolomite around under the tree as well. The little white bugs are aphids, you can get a spray at the nursery or hardware store to kill them.
Cheers
Wayne
Mackay QLD
2nd November 2009 7:33am
#UserID: 338
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
2nd November 2009 11:17am
#UserID: 2966
Jeff says...
Hi Vicki/Amanda,
I still havent found out what causes the issue with the mango tree. I ended up giving it a huge trim with chainsaw and upped the water to it but no real results. The tree was ravaged from cyclone George a few years ago on the one side, it never flowered/fruited after that(only on that side, rest of tree was fine). Have since moved house and inherited 2 mango trees that are significantly smaller than the original one and you guessed it....both have the same symptoms as the first. They are only a couple of years old so that maybe sinks the buildup of salt etc theory. I water each afternoon with sprinkler and then by hand but leaves are still dying from the tip upwards.
Hi Vicki/Amanda,
I still havent found out what causes the issue with the mango tree. I ended up giving it a huge trim with chainsaw and upped the water to it but no real results. The tree was ravaged from cyclone George a few years ago on the one side, it never flowered/fruited after that(only on that side, rest of tree was fine). Have since moved house and inherited 2 mango trees that are significantly smaller than the original one and you guessed it....both have the same symptoms as the first. They are only a couple of years old so that maybe sinks the buildup of salt etc theory. I water each afternoon with sprinkler and then by hand but leaves are still dying from the tip upwards.
Jeff
Port Hedland
3rd November 2009 1:29pm
#UserID: 1731
Wayne says...
Read this Jeff
"Q - we have a mango tree with yellow spots and dead or dying leaves the tree is roughly 15yrs old and 4 metres high ---A - The description fits Sour Sap usually caused by a Potash deficiency in the soil. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous. TERRAFOSKA TE or Crop king 77. one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy every two months"
Does that help,
Read this Jeff
"Q - we have a mango tree with yellow spots and dead or dying leaves the tree is roughly 15yrs old and 4 metres high ---A - The description fits Sour Sap usually caused by a Potash deficiency in the soil. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous. TERRAFOSKA TE or Crop king 77. one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy every two months"
Does that help,
Wayne
Mackay QLD
3rd November 2009 2:13pm
#UserID: 338
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
3rd November 2009 7:27pm
#UserID: 2966
Wayne
Mackay QLD
3rd November 2009 9:16pm
#UserID: 338
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Claudine
Singleton W.A
3rd November 2009 10:53pm
#UserID: 2966
Jeff
Port Hedland
4th November 2009 12:16pm
#UserID: 1731
amanda says...
Hi Jeff, a horticulturalist had a look at mine and said salt straight away. He also said that mangoes (and macadamias) are highly salt sensitive. He said it is being seen increasingly up the WA coast and is likely due to the lower rainfall etc etc.
You should get your water tested - I was shocked to see how bad our scheme water was for sodium and chloride - severe.
What you can do is give them a liberal dose of gypsum and then give them a heap of water to flush out the sodium. This needs to be done more often in dry periods. Try to practice deep long soakings INfrequently rather than lots of smaller waterings. The long soaks push the salt out past the root zone and flush better.
Feed your tree little and often as this helps to displace the sodium from the soil. Choose low salt fertilisers. Liquid feed such as Powerfeed is good for this.
PS - added a pic of my mangoe with new growth (fingers crossed!?) and my macadamia.
Hi Jeff, a horticulturalist had a look at mine and said salt straight away. He also said that mangoes (and macadamias) are highly salt sensitive. He said it is being seen increasingly up the WA coast and is likely due to the lower rainfall etc etc.
You should get your water tested - I was shocked to see how bad our scheme water was for sodium and chloride - severe.
What you can do is give them a liberal dose of gypsum and then give them a heap of water to flush out the sodium. This needs to be done more often in dry periods. Try to practice deep long soakings INfrequently rather than lots of smaller waterings. The long soaks push the salt out past the root zone and flush better.
Feed your tree little and often as this helps to displace the sodium from the soil. Choose low salt fertilisers. Liquid feed such as Powerfeed is good for this.
PS - added a pic of my mangoe with new growth (fingers crossed!?) and my macadamia.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
amanda
Geraldton. WA
7th November 2009 10:34am
#UserID: 2309
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Claudine says...
HI THERE WAYNE,
I HAVE GIVEN MY MANGO TREE ANOTHER SPRAY ALL OVER WITH THE MANCOZEB PLUS, AND SPREAD SOME OF THE LIME AROUND THE BASE AS YOU SAID, I COULDNT FIND ANY OF THE FERTILIZER YOU SUGGESTED...THE TERRAFOSKA T.E I HAVE FOUND A STONE FRUIT GRANUALS WITH A WETTING AGENT IN IT IN MY SHED THAT I MUST HAVE BOUGHT ALONG THE WAY AND HAVE PUT SOME AROUND THE BASE ALSO....WATERED IT IN WELL.
HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD BE LOOKING A BIT BETTER ASAP!
ANOTHER QUESTION FOR YOU :)
SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?
HI THERE WAYNE,
I HAVE GIVEN MY MANGO TREE ANOTHER SPRAY ALL OVER WITH THE MANCOZEB PLUS, AND SPREAD SOME OF THE LIME AROUND THE BASE AS YOU SAID, I COULDNT FIND ANY OF THE FERTILIZER YOU SUGGESTED...THE TERRAFOSKA T.E I HAVE FOUND A STONE FRUIT GRANUALS WITH A WETTING AGENT IN IT IN MY SHED THAT I MUST HAVE BOUGHT ALONG THE WAY AND HAVE PUT SOME AROUND THE BASE ALSO....WATERED IT IN WELL.
HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD BE LOOKING A BIT BETTER ASAP!
ANOTHER QUESTION FOR YOU :)
SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?
Claudine
Singleton W.A.
7th November 2009 7:01pm
#UserID: 2966
Wayne
Mackay QLD
7th November 2009 8:05pm
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
nike64
Altona
8th November 2009 11:53am
#UserID: 0
Jeff says...
Hi Amanda,
have tried the potash on main tree and seeing some new growth that looks healthy...guess time will tell. The scheme water here wouldnt suprise me if its worse than yours. Need a pack of wetta soil just to get shampoo on the hair here let alone what we are feeding our plants. Our water is so hard here once you have the calcium spots on any car windows you cant get it off with a razor blade, have just retic'd the whole yard and will see what regular watering does but looks good so far. Have attatched some pics of both trees and you can see the difference from the old to new growth. Got a whole 6 mangoes from two trees. Maybe next year.
Hi Amanda,
have tried the potash on main tree and seeing some new growth that looks healthy...guess time will tell. The scheme water here wouldnt suprise me if its worse than yours. Need a pack of wetta soil just to get shampoo on the hair here let alone what we are feeding our plants. Our water is so hard here once you have the calcium spots on any car windows you cant get it off with a razor blade, have just retic'd the whole yard and will see what regular watering does but looks good so far. Have attatched some pics of both trees and you can see the difference from the old to new growth. Got a whole 6 mangoes from two trees. Maybe next year.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
Jeff
Port Hedland
8th November 2009 7:38pm
#UserID: 0
amanda says...
Hey Jeff - looking good! I can highly recommend the liquid Gypsum. It's a bit expensive but u use very little. I got a 20L container of Gypflo for about $150 but I only needed to use 370ml for my 80 odd trees. Works out to about 2.5ml per sqm in my sandy soil. It works much faster than granular stuff and this is important in the dry season and in emergencies.
It may come in smaller sizes - try googling Gypflo.
The problem with "hard" water is that it excerbates salinity issues by increasing the sodium absorbtion ratio (SAR) - try some googling to find out more - but if you are really keen on gardening then a water test better (mine cost $66) a good investment.
Be very careful of chemical fert's - if u use them - only very dilute!
Organic matter is great but too much can be a problem as it tends to hold up the salts in the topsoil and then you require more flushing to get them to the sub-soil. So use mulch etc in moderation. I find chunky mulches the best - one's that keep the soil shaded and protected but allow the water to pass thru'.
Liquid feeding is the most helpful in our conditions though - which I know doesn't help build soil fertility in the long run - but what can u do!? It's a double edged sword in our type of environment.
I build up my organics in the rainy season - thus using the rain to help build the soil and then leave it alone during the dry/drought.
Hey Jeff - looking good! I can highly recommend the liquid Gypsum. It's a bit expensive but u use very little. I got a 20L container of Gypflo for about $150 but I only needed to use 370ml for my 80 odd trees. Works out to about 2.5ml per sqm in my sandy soil. It works much faster than granular stuff and this is important in the dry season and in emergencies.
It may come in smaller sizes - try googling Gypflo.
The problem with "hard" water is that it excerbates salinity issues by increasing the sodium absorbtion ratio (SAR) - try some googling to find out more - but if you are really keen on gardening then a water test better (mine cost $66) a good investment.
Be very careful of chemical fert's - if u use them - only very dilute!
Organic matter is great but too much can be a problem as it tends to hold up the salts in the topsoil and then you require more flushing to get them to the sub-soil. So use mulch etc in moderation. I find chunky mulches the best - one's that keep the soil shaded and protected but allow the water to pass thru'.
Liquid feeding is the most helpful in our conditions though - which I know doesn't help build soil fertility in the long run - but what can u do!? It's a double edged sword in our type of environment.
I build up my organics in the rainy season - thus using the rain to help build the soil and then leave it alone during the dry/drought.
amanda
Geraldton. WA
11th November 2009 10:41am
#UserID: 2309
View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees
kert
sydney
12th November 2009 3:28pm
#UserID: 0
kert
sydney
12th November 2009 3:36pm
#UserID: 0
amanda says...
That's a pretty comprehensive list kert. Although one needs to consider their environment and soils when evaluating the effects of salinity on a type of plant.
For example if you have sandy soils - the salts are leached more readily than in clay soils. Some plants also need humidity and others cannot tolerate wind - so many factors at play.
A fleshy leafed plant will loose more water when the wind is hot and dry - this is not so good if they are already salt sensitive, as the plants dehydrate more readily and then the salts do their damage.
Claudines plant is suffering from salinity problems also. Putting hard core fert's into the potting mix will likely make things worse, unless she waters very regularly - as soon as that potting mix gets too dry the plant will burn.
In my conditions - passionfruit do really well (but listed as sensitive) - so all things are not equal.
It's more important to be able to recognise the symptoms of salinity damage in your own environment than refer to a list (no offense) and then take action (which may be as drastic as not growing that type of plant :-( or it may just need careful management)
That's a pretty comprehensive list kert. Although one needs to consider their environment and soils when evaluating the effects of salinity on a type of plant.
For example if you have sandy soils - the salts are leached more readily than in clay soils. Some plants also need humidity and others cannot tolerate wind - so many factors at play.
A fleshy leafed plant will loose more water when the wind is hot and dry - this is not so good if they are already salt sensitive, as the plants dehydrate more readily and then the salts do their damage.
Claudines plant is suffering from salinity problems also. Putting hard core fert's into the potting mix will likely make things worse, unless she waters very regularly - as soon as that potting mix gets too dry the plant will burn.
In my conditions - passionfruit do really well (but listed as sensitive) - so all things are not equal.
It's more important to be able to recognise the symptoms of salinity damage in your own environment than refer to a list (no offense) and then take action (which may be as drastic as not growing that type of plant :-( or it may just need careful management)
amanda
Geraldton. WA
14th November 2009 11:13am
#UserID: 2309
View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees
amanda says...
Hi Jeff - heres B4 n after pics of my jaboticabas (note burnt margins tee guys are very salt sensitive) I did gypflo and big water flush then calcium nitrate and then trace elements (I would normally try organic methods first - but this was an emergengcy) did this about 3 weeks ago.
I have only done once so far - but he improvement is quite noticable.
Hi Jeff - heres B4 n after pics of my jaboticabas (note burnt margins tee guys are very salt sensitive) I did gypflo and big water flush then calcium nitrate and then trace elements (I would normally try organic methods first - but this was an emergengcy) did this about 3 weeks ago.
I have only done once so far - but he improvement is quite noticable.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
amanda
Geraldton. WA
14th November 2009 7:56pm
#UserID: 2309
View All amanda's Edible Fruit Trees