Bern Johnson starts with ...
Hi, thanks to Daley's Fruit Tree Nursery for setting up this forum. This is just what I need.
I live in Caloundra and have a huge mango tree at the back of my house. When hubby and I moved here, we were told to get the tree pruned, as this had not been done for a few years and this would encourage fruiting. We were also told that the first year after the big prune, that we should not expect any fruit from the tree. Well, two years on, the tree is still not fruiting.
Can anyone give me some help as to how to get our tree to fruit please?
With thanks
Hi, thanks to Daley's Fruit Tree Nursery for setting up this forum. This is just what I need.
I live in Caloundra and have a huge mango tree at the back of my house. When hubby and I moved here, we were told to get the tree pruned, as this had not been done for a few years and this would encourage fruiting. We were also told that the first year after the big prune, that we should not expect any fruit from the tree. Well, two years on, the tree is still not fruiting.
Can anyone give me some help as to how to get our tree to fruit please?
With thanks
Bern Johnson
Caloundra
21st June 2007 3:49pm
#UserID: 37
Correy
Woolloongabba
22nd June 2007 7:50pm
#UserID: 3
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Claire says...
Hi there, we also have a mango tree in the garden that has apparantly not fruited for a couple of years it has a few flowers on it now but the neighbour says these usually fall off before having a chance to fruit. It is very large, do you think i have to prune it back to let the sun get through? Hoping someone can help!
Hi there, we also have a mango tree in the garden that has apparantly not fruited for a couple of years it has a few flowers on it now but the neighbour says these usually fall off before having a chance to fruit. It is very large, do you think i have to prune it back to let the sun get through? Hoping someone can help!
Claire
Manly West
1st August 2007 4:34pm
#UserID: 0
Greg says...
Mango fruit set depends on several facters. Temperatures below 10 deg when flowering in the spring will reduce fruit set. Also wet weather during flowering can result in anthracnose infection which will cause fruit not to set. To get around low temperatures in Spring during flowering, one can remove the first flower set and this will result in a 2nd flowering a month later when temperatures are higher. Hope this makes sense Claire.
Mango fruit set depends on several facters. Temperatures below 10 deg when flowering in the spring will reduce fruit set. Also wet weather during flowering can result in anthracnose infection which will cause fruit not to set. To get around low temperatures in Spring during flowering, one can remove the first flower set and this will result in a 2nd flowering a month later when temperatures are higher. Hope this makes sense Claire.
Greg
Kyogle
1st August 2007 8:41pm
#UserID: 28
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latfi
malaysia
5th September 2007 3:13pm
#UserID: 0
Jo says...
My one Mango tree was here when I bought the house in 2001 and in early 2002 we had over 200 mango's-juicy and beautiful.
In 2003 I was lucky to find 20 on the tree. Since then I have had none.
Now there are a lot of tiny green ones.
How do we look after them??
What can we spray on the tree?
My one Mango tree was here when I bought the house in 2001 and in early 2002 we had over 200 mango's-juicy and beautiful.
In 2003 I was lucky to find 20 on the tree. Since then I have had none.
Now there are a lot of tiny green ones.
How do we look after them??
What can we spray on the tree?
Jo
campbelltown, NSW
4th November 2007 10:49am
#UserID: 400
Correy says...
It would be interesting to see a picture Jo. One at a distance and also up close of the newly forming mango's. It is easy to upload to these pictures to this forum.
Depending on the size of your tree you could give it a bi-weekly spray of copper oxychloride this time of year this stops powdery mildew and anthracnose from hindering fruit set.
Perhaps have a look at your mango tree and see if there are any signs of leaf deformation or the mango's having black spots that shrivel up and die.
My biggest problems are possums eating the mango flowers and the newly forming green mangoes.
Another thing about some mango's is that some seasons they will fruit much better then others. We have a huge "string" mango tree next to us. And every couple of years they will get a bumper crop that fills up a wheelie bin each week then other years barely at all.
Also if you are going to water your mango it is best to do so early morning or during the day rather then late afternoon. Otherwise the water sitting on the leaves overnight is a perfect breeding environment for fungus.
It would be interesting to see a picture Jo. One at a distance and also up close of the newly forming mango's. It is easy to upload to these pictures to this forum.
Depending on the size of your tree you could give it a bi-weekly spray of copper oxychloride this time of year this stops powdery mildew and anthracnose from hindering fruit set.
Perhaps have a look at your mango tree and see if there are any signs of leaf deformation or the mango's having black spots that shrivel up and die.
My biggest problems are possums eating the mango flowers and the newly forming green mangoes.
Another thing about some mango's is that some seasons they will fruit much better then others. We have a huge "string" mango tree next to us. And every couple of years they will get a bumper crop that fills up a wheelie bin each week then other years barely at all.
Also if you are going to water your mango it is best to do so early morning or during the day rather then late afternoon. Otherwise the water sitting on the leaves overnight is a perfect breeding environment for fungus.
Correy
Woolloongabba, QLD
5th November 2007 10:11am
#UserID: 3
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Jo
Campbelltown
11th November 2007 2:57pm
#UserID: 0
Jo says...
Took a picture from the other side of the tree.
Thought I'd mention that my nearest neighbour has a lot of fruit trees and his peach tree is heavily infected with fruit fly and he's not doing anything about it.
Is it true that a string of garlic would help the fruit fly stay away??
Took a picture from the other side of the tree.
Thought I'd mention that my nearest neighbour has a lot of fruit trees and his peach tree is heavily infected with fruit fly and he's not doing anything about it.
Is it true that a string of garlic would help the fruit fly stay away??
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Jo
C'town
11th November 2007 3:02pm
#UserID: 0
Greg says...
Not all flowers turn into fruit, so it is quiet normal for a lot of the flowers to abort. The fruit that has set should be sprayed with a copper fungicide to protect them from Anthracnose. With regards to Fruit Fly, you could use Naturalure to control fruit fly. Its an organic control but does need to be applied weekly through the fruit fly season. Ideally it would be good for your neighbour to use it too.
Not all flowers turn into fruit, so it is quiet normal for a lot of the flowers to abort. The fruit that has set should be sprayed with a copper fungicide to protect them from Anthracnose. With regards to Fruit Fly, you could use Naturalure to control fruit fly. Its an organic control but does need to be applied weekly through the fruit fly season. Ideally it would be good for your neighbour to use it too.
Greg
Kyogle
11th November 2007 3:28pm
#UserID: 28
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Pete says...
I have a mango tree in my yard about 12 years old. It flowers at least nine months of the year (even in winter) It has flowered every year in the past five to six years but no fruits.
Last two years it set some fruits but as they got larger they split and got spoilt. so In March this year I gave it the chop (almost) and removed most of the branches. It has some leaves now. Well if I don't get any fruits next year it is a goner!
I have a mango tree in my yard about 12 years old. It flowers at least nine months of the year (even in winter) It has flowered every year in the past five to six years but no fruits.
Last two years it set some fruits but as they got larger they split and got spoilt. so In March this year I gave it the chop (almost) and removed most of the branches. It has some leaves now. Well if I don't get any fruits next year it is a goner!
Pete
Castle Hill
22nd November 2007 8:18am
#UserID: 0
Ronnie says...
Howdy all
I have a mango tree I inherited from the property purchase this year. It is my first year so I got some tips from the previous owners.
1) Use a product called blood and bone (it's actually a soil mix of some sort). You can use this for all citrus fruit bearing plants as well.
2) Don't fret about the fruit that do grow and fall as there is only a 50% success rate of fruits reaching maturity.
3) Finally in the off season ie after this summer (use the supermarket as indicator of mango availability as it is seasonal) give it a good trim and strategically trim it so it grow good new branches that will later be used as stepping branches.
The neighbours actually mentioned that the previous owners trimming made the tree look quite bold to the extent that she was using a chainsaw.
Hope these helps and good luck. I'm lucky enough that I have 20 or so fruits but surely the drought up here is not helping.
Howdy all
I have a mango tree I inherited from the property purchase this year. It is my first year so I got some tips from the previous owners.
1) Use a product called blood and bone (it's actually a soil mix of some sort). You can use this for all citrus fruit bearing plants as well.
2) Don't fret about the fruit that do grow and fall as there is only a 50% success rate of fruits reaching maturity.
3) Finally in the off season ie after this summer (use the supermarket as indicator of mango availability as it is seasonal) give it a good trim and strategically trim it so it grow good new branches that will later be used as stepping branches.
The neighbours actually mentioned that the previous owners trimming made the tree look quite bold to the extent that she was using a chainsaw.
Hope these helps and good luck. I'm lucky enough that I have 20 or so fruits but surely the drought up here is not helping.
Ronnie
Brisbane
28th November 2007 5:16pm
#UserID: 473
Correy says...
Peter, are you from Castle Hill QLD?
I am in exactly the same position as you with a bowen mango tree. I have the following suspicions why it flowers but I don't get fruit.
1. Black Spot - Once the mango's start forming the black spot does as well and effects perhaps 40% of the fruit and this causes the fruit to abort. This is a very old variety of Bowen the newer varities such as the Dwarf Irwin Mango Tree are far superior. I have one in the pot and not one mango had any sign of black spot even though they are within 20m of each other.
2. Possums - Without doubt in the night lots of possums take to the tree and eat the flowers and young forming fruit. The mango tree is about 2.5 meters and unless you deter them from visiting the mango tree on a nightly basis there is no hope.
3. Early Flowering - In Brisbane sometimes it heats up for a few days just before spring which causes the mango to break out into flower. However then it cools down and this colder weather causes the mango to abort the flowers and drop the fruit. We knew about it this year so we pruned it heavily after the first flower and we got new flowers which stayed on much better then the year before.
Ronnie, I like the tip about the chainsaw. What variety do you have and do you have a picture for us? Also what did you mean by stepping branches.
What is your address in-case I am hungry and in the neighborhood one night ...... jokes:)
Peter, are you from Castle Hill QLD?
I am in exactly the same position as you with a bowen mango tree. I have the following suspicions why it flowers but I don't get fruit.
1. Black Spot - Once the mango's start forming the black spot does as well and effects perhaps 40% of the fruit and this causes the fruit to abort. This is a very old variety of Bowen the newer varities such as the Dwarf Irwin Mango Tree are far superior. I have one in the pot and not one mango had any sign of black spot even though they are within 20m of each other.
2. Possums - Without doubt in the night lots of possums take to the tree and eat the flowers and young forming fruit. The mango tree is about 2.5 meters and unless you deter them from visiting the mango tree on a nightly basis there is no hope.
3. Early Flowering - In Brisbane sometimes it heats up for a few days just before spring which causes the mango to break out into flower. However then it cools down and this colder weather causes the mango to abort the flowers and drop the fruit. We knew about it this year so we pruned it heavily after the first flower and we got new flowers which stayed on much better then the year before.
Ronnie, I like the tip about the chainsaw. What variety do you have and do you have a picture for us? Also what did you mean by stepping branches.
What is your address in-case I am hungry and in the neighborhood one night ...... jokes:)
Correy
Woolloongabba, QLD
28th November 2007 10:03pm
#UserID: 3
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Ronnie says...
Hey Correy... not quite sure what type of mango tree it is but certainly it's not the long type of mango fruits that it is bearing. It's starting to take form of those that you find in the supermarkets. I'll find out though
I'll send you some pics tomorrow.. bit difficult to do at night.
Stepping branches.. well the previous owners pruned it so well that the branches that was once there and then pruned is now an easy footing for climbing the tree and picking the fruits. Will take some pics of these too.
Cheers...
Hey Correy... not quite sure what type of mango tree it is but certainly it's not the long type of mango fruits that it is bearing. It's starting to take form of those that you find in the supermarkets. I'll find out though
I'll send you some pics tomorrow.. bit difficult to do at night.
Stepping branches.. well the previous owners pruned it so well that the branches that was once there and then pruned is now an easy footing for climbing the tree and picking the fruits. Will take some pics of these too.
Cheers...
Ronnie
Brisbane
28th November 2007 10:37pm
#UserID: 473
Kat says...
I actually started surfing the net to try and get to the bottom of my non fruiting mango tree. It's a bowen and 4 years ago when we first moved in we got a lot of fruit then the next year not as many then none at all for 2 years now. I absolutely love mangoes so i just have to find out why I'm not getting any anymore.
I've been pruning the tree after Christmas every year to keep it small. There's no sign of fungas etc. any suggestions??
I actually started surfing the net to try and get to the bottom of my non fruiting mango tree. It's a bowen and 4 years ago when we first moved in we got a lot of fruit then the next year not as many then none at all for 2 years now. I absolutely love mangoes so i just have to find out why I'm not getting any anymore.
I've been pruning the tree after Christmas every year to keep it small. There's no sign of fungas etc. any suggestions??
Kat
Rockhampton
21st December 2007 10:26pm
#UserID: 0
Jo says...
Hi again. Had a good look at my tree today and managed to find 1 (ONE) good sized mango and thats it! (about 9cm round so far)
We sprayed the tree with copper spray in November and it seems to have worked for this one lonely mango.
Fingers crossed.
All the other little green mangos either fell off or shrivelled up and died.
Hi again. Had a good look at my tree today and managed to find 1 (ONE) good sized mango and thats it! (about 9cm round so far)
We sprayed the tree with copper spray in November and it seems to have worked for this one lonely mango.
Fingers crossed.
All the other little green mangos either fell off or shrivelled up and died.
Jo
NSW
7th January 2008 6:52pm
#UserID: 400
Dianna says...
Hi Jo and everyone else, The pictures of Jo's mango flowers show typical anthracnose disease (I'll bet there were black leaves too) Anthracnose is a fungal infection, you have to spray regularly, not just once, from flowering right through to picking, usually Mankozeb, a copper spray or Fruit Care for us organic people.
If a fruit tree won't flower, fertilise with superphosphate.
Potash is for general good health, as it improves the quality of flowers and fruit; and strengthens the plant, increasing resistance to diseases etc.
Happy gardening, Dianna.
Hi Jo and everyone else, The pictures of Jo's mango flowers show typical anthracnose disease (I'll bet there were black leaves too) Anthracnose is a fungal infection, you have to spray regularly, not just once, from flowering right through to picking, usually Mankozeb, a copper spray or Fruit Care for us organic people.
If a fruit tree won't flower, fertilise with superphosphate.
Potash is for general good health, as it improves the quality of flowers and fruit; and strengthens the plant, increasing resistance to diseases etc.
Happy gardening, Dianna.
Dianna
Greenbank Qld
8th January 2008 12:15pm
#UserID: 181
Vishal
India
21st March 2008 8:16pm
#UserID: 789
R Lenhart says...
I now have several Mangoes in my garden, I live on the SE coast nsw gets cold but this year had fantastic success, feed potasium nitrate a couple of months before xmas when the flowers come out dont make the same mistake as me, found it covered in flies ( not bees) sprayed them to find out flies propogate Mangoes thus my good crop this year, aparently the flowers smell quite off and flies are attracted, DONT KILL THEM they are the polinators, tree must have full sun and they say to each bunch of flowers you usually only get one fruit, I had 2 & 3 on the same bunch of flowers good luck regards rolf.
I now have several Mangoes in my garden, I live on the SE coast nsw gets cold but this year had fantastic success, feed potasium nitrate a couple of months before xmas when the flowers come out dont make the same mistake as me, found it covered in flies ( not bees) sprayed them to find out flies propogate Mangoes thus my good crop this year, aparently the flowers smell quite off and flies are attracted, DONT KILL THEM they are the polinators, tree must have full sun and they say to each bunch of flowers you usually only get one fruit, I had 2 & 3 on the same bunch of flowers good luck regards rolf.
R Lenhart
Wollongong
22nd April 2008 8:03am
#UserID: 886
BOB
USA
22nd April 2008 9:12pm
#UserID: 894
BOB
USA
22nd April 2008 9:14pm
#UserID: 894
Dianna says...
Hello Vishal, Your mango tree sounds like it's got anthracnose, it's got black bits on the distorted leaves and the flowers go black? This is a fungal disease, the spraying routine has been discussed here already. You need to fertilise your trees with a complete fertiliser suitable for fruit trees (nitrogen, phosphate and potassium) in June and August. In Queensland, we fertilise mango trees in December and February, so that's early summer and late summer. Good Luck with your mangoes.
Hello Vishal, Your mango tree sounds like it's got anthracnose, it's got black bits on the distorted leaves and the flowers go black? This is a fungal disease, the spraying routine has been discussed here already. You need to fertilise your trees with a complete fertiliser suitable for fruit trees (nitrogen, phosphate and potassium) in June and August. In Queensland, we fertilise mango trees in December and February, so that's early summer and late summer. Good Luck with your mangoes.
Dianna
Greenbank Queensland
6th May 2008 8:23am
#UserID: 181
Anonymous says...
i have some large and small mangoes on my three trees. I want to know if I can pick the large ones before they fall and ripen themin the kitchen. also I want to know how to take the seeds and cultivate them to grow more trees. cna anyone give me a dummies book on magoe ripening inside before the bugs and animals get them and how to cultivate the seeds no matter what size the magoes are. Thanks
i have some large and small mangoes on my three trees. I want to know if I can pick the large ones before they fall and ripen themin the kitchen. also I want to know how to take the seeds and cultivate them to grow more trees. cna anyone give me a dummies book on magoe ripening inside before the bugs and animals get them and how to cultivate the seeds no matter what size the magoes are. Thanks
Anonymous
florida
14th May 2008 6:10pm
#UserID: 953
Anonymous
17th May 2008 6:05am
#UserID: 0
Dianna says...
Hi Anonymous in Florida, you can pick the mangoes when they've 'coloured up', then they should ripen in the kitchen, just put them in the fruitbowl on the table. You could also leave them on the tree and cover them up with a cloth bag, that works for me, it keeps the insects, flying foxes (fruit bats) and the possums away. To grow from seeds - plant the seeds in a pot, water it, and it should grow. You might find that from one seed, you get two trees so you'll have to pick the best looking one. They will then take many years to fruit, it would be quicker to buy a grafted tree and then you would get fruit in a year or two. Happy Mangoes.
Hi Anonymous in Florida, you can pick the mangoes when they've 'coloured up', then they should ripen in the kitchen, just put them in the fruitbowl on the table. You could also leave them on the tree and cover them up with a cloth bag, that works for me, it keeps the insects, flying foxes (fruit bats) and the possums away. To grow from seeds - plant the seeds in a pot, water it, and it should grow. You might find that from one seed, you get two trees so you'll have to pick the best looking one. They will then take many years to fruit, it would be quicker to buy a grafted tree and then you would get fruit in a year or two. Happy Mangoes.
Dianna
Greenbank
23rd May 2008 10:03am
#UserID: 181
peter Muilenburg says...
We have a supposedly Thai variety of mango. Bought it small ( grafted) about four to five years ago and this year inApril it flowered in about ten clumps. Many of the flowers felll off in brisk winds and those that were left turned into tiny little mangoes, almost al;l of which have disappeared.
Do the trees have any norm for how long they take to first bear fruit? Is it possible to get a "lemon". . . ie one that doesn't bear ever?
Peter
We have a supposedly Thai variety of mango. Bought it small ( grafted) about four to five years ago and this year inApril it flowered in about ten clumps. Many of the flowers felll off in brisk winds and those that were left turned into tiny little mangoes, almost al;l of which have disappeared.
Do the trees have any norm for how long they take to first bear fruit? Is it possible to get a "lemon". . . ie one that doesn't bear ever?
Peter
peter Muilenburg
St John, US Virgin Islands
2nd June 2008 5:02am
#UserID: 996
Dianna says...
Hello Peter in St John. I suppose it is possible to get a dud mango tree. Make sure you fertilised the tree properly, give it potash for strong growth and good health. Look for the anthracnose, blackened distorted leaves and flowers, you have to spray every fortnight to overcome that. Why do we always get windy weather just in time to blow the flowers or fruit off? If the tree is in good health (remember the potash), the fruit/flowers should generally stay on the tree. Cheers, Dianna.
Hello Peter in St John. I suppose it is possible to get a dud mango tree. Make sure you fertilised the tree properly, give it potash for strong growth and good health. Look for the anthracnose, blackened distorted leaves and flowers, you have to spray every fortnight to overcome that. Why do we always get windy weather just in time to blow the flowers or fruit off? If the tree is in good health (remember the potash), the fruit/flowers should generally stay on the tree. Cheers, Dianna.
Dianna
Greenbank Queensland
14th June 2008 8:30am
#UserID: 181
Janelle says...
We moved to our house 2 years ago and the first year got about 10 huge and absolutely divine mangoes from our very large tree. Last season the tree was covered in flowers and through the fruit started to form they all dropped after we had a shower of rain and we didn't get a single mango. The tree is just starting to bud again now. Should I spray with Copper spray and if so when? Also is it too early in the season for the tree to be getting flowers.
We moved to our house 2 years ago and the first year got about 10 huge and absolutely divine mangoes from our very large tree. Last season the tree was covered in flowers and through the fruit started to form they all dropped after we had a shower of rain and we didn't get a single mango. The tree is just starting to bud again now. Should I spray with Copper spray and if so when? Also is it too early in the season for the tree to be getting flowers.
Janelle
Maryborough, Queensland
25th June 2008 9:29pm
#UserID: 1098
Andrei says...
Mat, i don't think that's a mango mate - bark is too pink.
Worth saving this mango??
Dropped all it's leaves year ago.
Now monthly Fertilised with seaweed.
Possums continuously eating new shoots.
Tried regular bitter sprays.
Contemplating pruning right back
and Putting bird net over it.
Any other suggestions?
(how radical to prune, in stages?)
thanks, Andrei
Mat, i don't think that's a mango mate - bark is too pink.
Worth saving this mango??
Dropped all it's leaves year ago.
Now monthly Fertilised with seaweed.
Possums continuously eating new shoots.
Tried regular bitter sprays.
Contemplating pruning right back
and Putting bird net over it.
Any other suggestions?
(how radical to prune, in stages?)
thanks, Andrei
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
Andrei
Sunny Brisbane
10th July 2008 12:05pm
#UserID: 1151
Kathie Skrobiak
Central Florida
3rd August 2008 11:57am
#UserID: 1214
Jonathan says...
Hello,
I had three lovely Mango trees in my garden and unfortunately one of the trees died and had to be pulled down. Now the second and third trees are showing the same problems (see photos). The second tree in particular has discoloured leaves and dead branches. I do not fertilize the trees. The picture of the leaves shows a leaf from the second tree (discoloured) and a leaf from the thrid tree (green).
Hope someone can help before I lose all three.
Tks
Jonathan
Hello,
I had three lovely Mango trees in my garden and unfortunately one of the trees died and had to be pulled down. Now the second and third trees are showing the same problems (see photos). The second tree in particular has discoloured leaves and dead branches. I do not fertilize the trees. The picture of the leaves shows a leaf from the second tree (discoloured) and a leaf from the thrid tree (green).
Hope someone can help before I lose all three.
Tks
Jonathan
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Jonathan
Sydney
1st September 2008 10:16pm
#UserID: 1307
Kathy
Sth Western Aust
10th September 2008 9:53pm
#UserID: 0
Anonymous
11th September 2008 9:24am
#UserID: 0
Ellen says...
Kathy
you need to water your mango fruit tree more often, the tree is feeding on it leaves. Give it also slow fertilizer for fruit trees, especially now is starting the growing season for flowering to fruitings, give it plenty of water daily. If you're watering it heavily then every 2 -3 days, but especially coming into the hot summer season, daily is best for it.
Cheers.
Kathy
you need to water your mango fruit tree more often, the tree is feeding on it leaves. Give it also slow fertilizer for fruit trees, especially now is starting the growing season for flowering to fruitings, give it plenty of water daily. If you're watering it heavily then every 2 -3 days, but especially coming into the hot summer season, daily is best for it.
Cheers.
Ellen
smithfield
11th September 2008 9:31am
#UserID: 1339
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Wayne says...
{Kathie Skrobiak says...
What does "coloring up" mean? My mangoes are getting red on the top and staying green on the bottom. Is that what you mean? They are still very hard.}
That's about it Kathie, they should also be nice and plump around the point at the bottom of the fruit. Don't worry about them being hard.
{Kathie Skrobiak says...
What does "coloring up" mean? My mangoes are getting red on the top and staying green on the bottom. Is that what you mean? They are still very hard.}
That's about it Kathie, they should also be nice and plump around the point at the bottom of the fruit. Don't worry about them being hard.
Wayne
11th September 2008 5:00pm
#UserID: 338
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Kathy
WA
12th September 2008 11:32pm
#UserID: 0
Bobby says...
I have had good luck with Miricle grow every two week - 3-5 teaspoons a gallon to trees in distress instead of regular granular fertilizer( don't do both too close together). I have had a tree that received too much water because it was right next to a septic system tank - and it had leaf and brach die-back. I stopped watering that particular tree and used the miricle grow and it is fine. I had lost a previous tree with the same problems in that same hole before we discovered where the spetic tank was located.
I have had good luck with Miricle grow every two week - 3-5 teaspoons a gallon to trees in distress instead of regular granular fertilizer( don't do both too close together). I have had a tree that received too much water because it was right next to a septic system tank - and it had leaf and brach die-back. I stopped watering that particular tree and used the miricle grow and it is fine. I had lost a previous tree with the same problems in that same hole before we discovered where the spetic tank was located.
Bobby
Miami, Fl.
29th September 2008 1:09am
#UserID: 1443
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Olga
Brisbane
10th November 2008 3:07pm
#UserID: 1621
Autumn says...
Hi! I have a mango tree in my backyard and am not sure what type of mango it is. The fruit is long, green and sort of s-shaped. The fruit is getting a tiny bit of red on the top. Should i pick them now? Is there a good website to see pictures of the different varieties of mangos? I have found several websites but they usually show the more round fruit. My computer is not working correctly so I am unable to attach a picture of the tree with the fruit on it...sorry. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Hi! I have a mango tree in my backyard and am not sure what type of mango it is. The fruit is long, green and sort of s-shaped. The fruit is getting a tiny bit of red on the top. Should i pick them now? Is there a good website to see pictures of the different varieties of mangos? I have found several websites but they usually show the more round fruit. My computer is not working correctly so I am unable to attach a picture of the tree with the fruit on it...sorry. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Autumn
San Diego, CA
23rd November 2008 6:24am
#UserID: 1672
paul says...
my mango tree is about 8 yrs a few years ago it started to fruit 1st season we had 4 or 5 fruit the next year had a few more the last couple of years the tree was chock a block with flowers now all the flowers are gone and no fruit the stems where the flowers were have turned black and died can you tell me how to fix the problem as we like our mangoes any advice will be very much apprecited thank you paul
my mango tree is about 8 yrs a few years ago it started to fruit 1st season we had 4 or 5 fruit the next year had a few more the last couple of years the tree was chock a block with flowers now all the flowers are gone and no fruit the stems where the flowers were have turned black and died can you tell me how to fix the problem as we like our mangoes any advice will be very much apprecited thank you paul
paul
noosa heads
27th November 2008 3:36pm
#UserID: 1694
Jonathan
Sydney
4th December 2008 9:10pm
#UserID: 1307
Michael says...
Hi Autumn,
Please use the link below to check out different types of mangoes.Go back to their home page and you can search for almost any type of fruits or plants
http://www.toptropicals.com/html/toptropicals/articles/fruit/varieties_mango.htm
Hi Autumn,
Please use the link below to check out different types of mangoes.Go back to their home page and you can search for almost any type of fruits or plants
http://www.toptropicals.com/html/toptropicals/articles/fruit/varieties_mango.htm
Michael
Cabramatta
4th December 2008 9:38pm
#UserID: 0
Anonymous says...
OLGA, Blood and Bone does repel possums, spray it on the leaves, I think you can buy liquid blood and bone. Also spraying with molasses in water can repel possums, maybe one cup molasses in a bucket of water. PAUL, your tree has got anthracnose, spray with Mancozeb or one of the copper-based products. You must spray every two weeks from the first sign of flowers all the way through, and remember the with-holding period (do not eat the fruit within x days of spraying). Good luck. Regards, Dianna.
OLGA, Blood and Bone does repel possums, spray it on the leaves, I think you can buy liquid blood and bone. Also spraying with molasses in water can repel possums, maybe one cup molasses in a bucket of water. PAUL, your tree has got anthracnose, spray with Mancozeb or one of the copper-based products. You must spray every two weeks from the first sign of flowers all the way through, and remember the with-holding period (do not eat the fruit within x days of spraying). Good luck. Regards, Dianna.
Anonymous
5th December 2008 8:29am
#UserID: 0
Mitch
Miami, Florida
26th December 2008 10:23am
#UserID: 1788
Robyn says...
I have 15 mature mango trees,one huge one about 30'tall,very green and full of leaves, but all 15 trees are planted in different areas of my property, all haven't fruited for over 5 years. Some look great, some don't. The locals tell me that when we get our seasonal heavy rain and wind around Oct/Nov, this ruins the flowers, hence no fruit. I cant believe this can be the reason for all 15 trees not fruiting. Maybe I will get out the chain saw! I have sprayed, cut them back over the years, but still no fruit. Living in a sub-tropical area, I would have thought they would produce at least one mango. What would my problem be??
I have 15 mature mango trees,one huge one about 30'tall,very green and full of leaves, but all 15 trees are planted in different areas of my property, all haven't fruited for over 5 years. Some look great, some don't. The locals tell me that when we get our seasonal heavy rain and wind around Oct/Nov, this ruins the flowers, hence no fruit. I cant believe this can be the reason for all 15 trees not fruiting. Maybe I will get out the chain saw! I have sprayed, cut them back over the years, but still no fruit. Living in a sub-tropical area, I would have thought they would produce at least one mango. What would my problem be??
Robyn
BYRON BAY
9th January 2009 10:46pm
#UserID: 1838
Wayne says...
To Mitch
I'm surprised you haven't had a reply earlier. Yes that sure looks like a fungus, so a copper based spray such as mancozeb or coperoxichloride should do the trick
-----------------
Hey Robyn, if you get heavy rain and wind when the flowers are trying to set it sure can be a problem, however, it seems unusual that you are not getting any fruit at all. So perhaps a good prune and fertilizer is in order.
I've just given our tree a moderate prune
To Mitch
I'm surprised you haven't had a reply earlier. Yes that sure looks like a fungus, so a copper based spray such as mancozeb or coperoxichloride should do the trick
-----------------
Hey Robyn, if you get heavy rain and wind when the flowers are trying to set it sure can be a problem, however, it seems unusual that you are not getting any fruit at all. So perhaps a good prune and fertilizer is in order.
I've just given our tree a moderate prune
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Wayne
Mackay
10th January 2009 5:12pm
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
Wayne
Mackay
10th January 2009 5:22pm
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
SlickMick says...
For anyone interested in pruning their mangoes this article should be of interest.
http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Primary_Industry/Content/File/horticulture/598.pdf
For anyone interested in pruning their mangoes this article should be of interest.
http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Primary_Industry/Content/File/horticulture/598.pdf
SlickMick
11th January 2009 11:34am
#UserID: 1775
Craig says...
Robyn I also have 15 mango trees. They are about 11 years old. All trees appear healthy. About 5-6 years ago we had hundreds of mangoes, not one since then. I have experimented with pruning, fertilizing and irrigation on various trees still no luck. Because the trees are fairly large I have never sprayed them so maybe this would help.(Although you have said you've already done this)
Robyn I also have 15 mango trees. They are about 11 years old. All trees appear healthy. About 5-6 years ago we had hundreds of mangoes, not one since then. I have experimented with pruning, fertilizing and irrigation on various trees still no luck. Because the trees are fairly large I have never sprayed them so maybe this would help.(Although you have said you've already done this)
Craig
Caboolture
18th January 2009 6:11pm
#UserID: 1882
SlickMick
18th January 2009 8:56pm
#UserID: 1775
Wayne
Mackay
19th January 2009 4:23pm
#UserID: 338
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SlickMick says...
Wayne, you mentioned earlier that you were interested in how they reworked old mango trees. This article comes from http://www.agric.wa.gov.au/content/HORT/FN/CP/FN066_1987.PDF. At the end of the article it quotes "Reworking
Many of the common or Turpentine mangoes already
established in the north-west of Western Australia could
be reworked to named varieties. This is more successful
if the tree is in good condition and shows no sign of dead
wood or stunting.
Firstly, the old trunk is cut off at a point 40 to 80 cm above
ground level, and the cut surface coated with Colgraft®
or similar material. Shoots will develop from around the
trunk. When these have reached ideal size (7 to 10 mm)
three or four can be grafted as described already.
However, as grafting takes place in a field situation, it is
necessary to shade the graft to prevent the scion being
sunburned and dried out. A brown paper bag is ideal for
this purpose. It can be removed when enough new
growth has taken place."
Wayne, you mentioned earlier that you were interested in how they reworked old mango trees. This article comes from http://www.agric.wa.gov.au/content/HORT/FN/CP/FN066_1987.PDF. At the end of the article it quotes "Reworking
Many of the common or Turpentine mangoes already
established in the north-west of Western Australia could
be reworked to named varieties. This is more successful
if the tree is in good condition and shows no sign of dead
wood or stunting.
Firstly, the old trunk is cut off at a point 40 to 80 cm above
ground level, and the cut surface coated with Colgraft®
or similar material. Shoots will develop from around the
trunk. When these have reached ideal size (7 to 10 mm)
three or four can be grafted as described already.
However, as grafting takes place in a field situation, it is
necessary to shade the graft to prevent the scion being
sunburned and dried out. A brown paper bag is ideal for
this purpose. It can be removed when enough new
growth has taken place."
SlickMick
19th January 2009 4:58pm
#UserID: 1775
Wayne says...
The link didn't work for me Mick, but, not to worry, I will find it.
That is very interesting that they talk about using Turpentine mangoes for the stock root and I'm wondering why. Turpentine mangoes, although they look beautiful, have the most vile taste but I guess the flavour might not carry in to the new fruit.
I have this young tree begging for a graft as well [see photo] but unsure with what yet.
The link didn't work for me Mick, but, not to worry, I will find it.
That is very interesting that they talk about using Turpentine mangoes for the stock root and I'm wondering why. Turpentine mangoes, although they look beautiful, have the most vile taste but I guess the flavour might not carry in to the new fruit.
I have this young tree begging for a graft as well [see photo] but unsure with what yet.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 | ||
Wayne
Mackay
19th January 2009 6:33pm
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
SlickMick says...
I think that the new wood grafted into the turpentine stock produces fruit true to type of the scion and so no characteristics of the stock would come through. Just my humble opinion :)
I imagine the tree in the pic is a seedling of some sort and you have to decide what to put on it. I would try something that you dont have already and see how it goes.
I think that the new wood grafted into the turpentine stock produces fruit true to type of the scion and so no characteristics of the stock would come through. Just my humble opinion :)
I imagine the tree in the pic is a seedling of some sort and you have to decide what to put on it. I would try something that you dont have already and see how it goes.
SlickMick
19th January 2009 6:45pm
#UserID: 1775
Jo says...
Hey -Me again! I haven't written in for about a year, last year I ended up with 4 big juicy mangoes..I only spotted one the whole time in writing this before and one day there were 3 on the ground.Don't know where they were hiding.....
Anyway since it budded in November 08 we have been religiously spraying with copper spray and watering everyday and there are a stack of mangoes on the tree some are massive and some are small but at least 50 or more....looks like the copper spray did the trick!! Can't wait to eat them all!
Hey -Me again! I haven't written in for about a year, last year I ended up with 4 big juicy mangoes..I only spotted one the whole time in writing this before and one day there were 3 on the ground.Don't know where they were hiding.....
Anyway since it budded in November 08 we have been religiously spraying with copper spray and watering everyday and there are a stack of mangoes on the tree some are massive and some are small but at least 50 or more....looks like the copper spray did the trick!! Can't wait to eat them all!
Jo
NSW
20th January 2009 8:13pm
#UserID: 400
SlickMick
20th January 2009 8:50pm
#UserID: 1775
Dianna says...
Hello to Mitch in Florida. I think you have a case of sooty mould, this is a by-product of scale insects, they suck the sap out of the tree, then exude a sugary substance, the sooty mould grows on that. Spray with white-oil or pest-oil, this kills the scale insects, then the sooty mould will curl up and fall off by itself.
Wayne, in Mackay - would you like to come round and prune some trees for me?
Robyn in Byron Bay - have you fertilised your trees? (in December, and in February)
Hello to Mitch in Florida. I think you have a case of sooty mould, this is a by-product of scale insects, they suck the sap out of the tree, then exude a sugary substance, the sooty mould grows on that. Spray with white-oil or pest-oil, this kills the scale insects, then the sooty mould will curl up and fall off by itself.
Wayne, in Mackay - would you like to come round and prune some trees for me?
Robyn in Byron Bay - have you fertilised your trees? (in December, and in February)
Dianna
Greenbank Qld
22nd January 2009 4:58pm
#UserID: 181
cloudman
Texas coast
24th January 2009 6:39am
#UserID: 1910
Wayne
Mackay
24th January 2009 5:20pm
#UserID: 338
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cloudman says...
Hi Wayne
I think it was root bound in the original pot I had, and I moved it to this very large pot about 2 years ago, and the first year it was in this pot it did nothing, it had about 6 leaves at that time, and during the course of the year they same 6 leaves stayed on the year, none of them died, but the tree did not do anything. This year it has got some new leaves and is slowly growing.
Hi Wayne
I think it was root bound in the original pot I had, and I moved it to this very large pot about 2 years ago, and the first year it was in this pot it did nothing, it had about 6 leaves at that time, and during the course of the year they same 6 leaves stayed on the year, none of them died, but the tree did not do anything. This year it has got some new leaves and is slowly growing.
cloudman
Texas coast
25th January 2009 2:50am
#UserID: 1910
macleaymac says...
Folks there is sooo much stuff about mangos that is pure conjecture. e.g the weather, the wind, the water. The reasons for fruit drop and failure to fruit can be none of the above.These plants stress easily through any lack of minerals/ plant food, water, wind at the wrong time, insect attack etc.Please read what the govt site has to say.
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5359.html
Suggest you give a liberal dressing of gypsum at the drip line. Mangos need the calcium from it.
Then one wet day sprinkle some chelated iron if your land is sandy. OR a multi mineral pack to ensure the land is not deficient in boron etc. I throw some epsom salts around as well.
AND know you are not alone:-
from qcl.farmonline.com.au
Queensland’s mango harvest is well underway but yields are not looking good for the tropical fruit.
This season has been unpredictable with some areas of the Northern Territory coming on as early as late August and other areas of Queensland, including Burdekin, starting harvest weeks later then usual.
Australia Mango Industry Association’s industry development manager Trevor Dunmall said the season has started in sporadically, but one thing most areas have in common is lower yields on certain varieties.
"There has been widespread flowering, some mangoes coming on early, some coming on late," Mr Dunmall said.
"It appears Kensington Pride and R2E2 orchards are experiencing low yields this season.
"Other varieties appear to have produced stable amounts."
Last season the Queensland mango industry produced around $80 million worth of fruit.
Mr Dunmall said it is not yet clear whether the shortfall in yields will greatly reduce the overall crop worth.
"We do expect it to be down slightly, but prices could be better and then make up for some of the yield loss," Mr Dunmall said.
"The harvest for all areas of Queensland should be completed in March and we won't really know until then what the full affect has been."
Some producers in the Bowen region have recorded crop losses on R2E2 of around 30pc, while varieties such as Honey Gold, grown exclusively in Bowen by Euri Gold Farms for Pinata Group have not had decreased yields at all.
The overall quality of fruit this season is expected to be high.
Finally I have espallia'd a bowen mango to keep the height down to a managable size for an old gardener.
Queensland Country Life
Source: http://www.queenslandcountrylife.com
Folks there is sooo much stuff about mangos that is pure conjecture. e.g the weather, the wind, the water. The reasons for fruit drop and failure to fruit can be none of the above.These plants stress easily through any lack of minerals/ plant food, water, wind at the wrong time, insect attack etc.Please read what the govt site has to say.
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5359.html
Suggest you give a liberal dressing of gypsum at the drip line. Mangos need the calcium from it.
Then one wet day sprinkle some chelated iron if your land is sandy. OR a multi mineral pack to ensure the land is not deficient in boron etc. I throw some epsom salts around as well.
AND know you are not alone:-
from qcl.farmonline.com.au
Queensland’s mango harvest is well underway but yields are not looking good for the tropical fruit.
This season has been unpredictable with some areas of the Northern Territory coming on as early as late August and other areas of Queensland, including Burdekin, starting harvest weeks later then usual.
Australia Mango Industry Association’s industry development manager Trevor Dunmall said the season has started in sporadically, but one thing most areas have in common is lower yields on certain varieties.
"There has been widespread flowering, some mangoes coming on early, some coming on late," Mr Dunmall said.
"It appears Kensington Pride and R2E2 orchards are experiencing low yields this season.
"Other varieties appear to have produced stable amounts."
Last season the Queensland mango industry produced around $80 million worth of fruit.
Mr Dunmall said it is not yet clear whether the shortfall in yields will greatly reduce the overall crop worth.
"We do expect it to be down slightly, but prices could be better and then make up for some of the yield loss," Mr Dunmall said.
"The harvest for all areas of Queensland should be completed in March and we won't really know until then what the full affect has been."
Some producers in the Bowen region have recorded crop losses on R2E2 of around 30pc, while varieties such as Honey Gold, grown exclusively in Bowen by Euri Gold Farms for Pinata Group have not had decreased yields at all.
The overall quality of fruit this season is expected to be high.
Finally I have espallia'd a bowen mango to keep the height down to a managable size for an old gardener.
Queensland Country Life
Source: http://www.queenslandcountrylife.com
macleaymac
macleay island brisbane
26th January 2009 4:06pm
#UserID: 1925
macleaymac says...
Here's a link to the web site of Annette mcfarlane. The articles answer a lot of the above questions:
http://www.annettemcfarlane.com/Stories/Mangoes.pdf
As it's a pdf file you may have to go to her site as above, then click stories, then select mangos.
Here's a link to the web site of Annette mcfarlane. The articles answer a lot of the above questions:
http://www.annettemcfarlane.com/Stories/Mangoes.pdf
As it's a pdf file you may have to go to her site as above, then click stories, then select mangos.
macleaymac
macleay island brisbane
26th January 2009 4:13pm
#UserID: 1925
kerri says...
Hi,
I would like some info on growing mangoes. I live south of Perth. Where I am the soil (or sand) is very alkine so is the bore water. If I wanted to put one in the ground is there a way it would live. Also it is windy. I know that on one tag that i read it said i needed to add gyspam (think that is how you spell it), is for clay. Dolimit and a few other things i can't remember.
Would it be better in a pot or in the gound. What could I add to help?. Or any other info would be a great help.
Cheers
Hi,
I would like some info on growing mangoes. I live south of Perth. Where I am the soil (or sand) is very alkine so is the bore water. If I wanted to put one in the ground is there a way it would live. Also it is windy. I know that on one tag that i read it said i needed to add gyspam (think that is how you spell it), is for clay. Dolimit and a few other things i can't remember.
Would it be better in a pot or in the gound. What could I add to help?. Or any other info would be a great help.
Cheers
kerri
Rockingham WA
4th February 2009 10:23pm
#UserID: 1000
Wayne says...
Doesn't look like you have much going for a Mango tree Kerri. How alkaline is your soil? you can get a probe tester for around $14 from Bunnings to test it. To make your soil more acidic add sulphur or sulphate of ammonia. Mango trees also do not like strong winds, especially around flowering time.
Doesn't look like you have much going for a Mango tree Kerri. How alkaline is your soil? you can get a probe tester for around $14 from Bunnings to test it. To make your soil more acidic add sulphur or sulphate of ammonia. Mango trees also do not like strong winds, especially around flowering time.
Wayne
Mackay
5th February 2009 4:55am
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
bobren888
philippines
11th February 2009 1:29pm
#UserID: 1972
kerri
25th February 2009 3:58pm
#UserID: 0
Bob_S_Miami says...
To Mitch in Miami - You have sooty mold on the leaves. You can spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide, or you can simply wash it off with soap and water. Both methods work, & I'd recommend the soap first, followed by the liquid copper for good measure. The liquid copper is good for Anthracnose as well. I have 2 trees, a Valencia Pride and an Edward. Both have flowered heavily this year, and both are usually reliable producers.
To Mitch in Miami - You have sooty mold on the leaves. You can spray the tree with Liquid Copper Fungicide, or you can simply wash it off with soap and water. Both methods work, & I'd recommend the soap first, followed by the liquid copper for good measure. The liquid copper is good for Anthracnose as well. I have 2 trees, a Valencia Pride and an Edward. Both have flowered heavily this year, and both are usually reliable producers.
Bob_S_Miami
Miami, FL
26th March 2009 1:30am
#UserID: 2115
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joewigan says...
I havent taken pics yet but will, I was just experimenting becouse i thought i wouldnt be able to grow one in the uk but started in small pot 6" with pollybag over it,Since removing the bag the leafs where really shinny now they started to curl at the ends anything i could do for this lovely plant,it has six leaves on it at the mo, i need help please,,,,joe
I havent taken pics yet but will, I was just experimenting becouse i thought i wouldnt be able to grow one in the uk but started in small pot 6" with pollybag over it,Since removing the bag the leafs where really shinny now they started to curl at the ends anything i could do for this lovely plant,it has six leaves on it at the mo, i need help please,,,,joe
joewigan
England uk
8th April 2009 8:45am
#UserID: 2161
Ellen
Smithfield
8th April 2009 12:03pm
#UserID: 1339
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joewigan
uk
12th April 2009 9:30am
#UserID: 2177
Ryan
Perth
14th April 2009 5:53pm
#UserID: 2190
Daza
Newman W.A
14th April 2009 10:43pm
#UserID: 0
Dianna says...
Hi Daza, If the flowers went black, then the tree has anthracnose, spray every fortnight from flowering to fruit-picking with a fungus spray, Mancozeb, copper, etc.
Hello Ryan, buy the best quality potting mix you can get. Don't fertilise it when you've repotted, wait until it has settled in, then use an organic fertiliser, "organic" because it's in a pot and there's less chance of harming it with chemicals.
Hi JoeWigan - if you're in Wigan, mate, good luck! Have you considered moving to somewhere a bit warmer and sunnier?
Cheers from Sunny Queensland.
Hi Daza, If the flowers went black, then the tree has anthracnose, spray every fortnight from flowering to fruit-picking with a fungus spray, Mancozeb, copper, etc.
Hello Ryan, buy the best quality potting mix you can get. Don't fertilise it when you've repotted, wait until it has settled in, then use an organic fertiliser, "organic" because it's in a pot and there's less chance of harming it with chemicals.
Hi JoeWigan - if you're in Wigan, mate, good luck! Have you considered moving to somewhere a bit warmer and sunnier?
Cheers from Sunny Queensland.
Dianna
Greenbank in Queensland
15th April 2009 5:14pm
#UserID: 181
Ryan says...
Thanks for the good advice Dianna. I will be transfering the Mango Tree to a 70 Litre pot this weekend.
Our Local nursery suggested mixing the potting mix with some sheep manure and a small amount of blood and bone. I'm not sure how experienced they are with Mango Trees - they don't keep any in stock.
Thanks for the good advice Dianna. I will be transfering the Mango Tree to a 70 Litre pot this weekend.
Our Local nursery suggested mixing the potting mix with some sheep manure and a small amount of blood and bone. I'm not sure how experienced they are with Mango Trees - they don't keep any in stock.
Ryan
Perth
15th April 2009 10:55pm
#UserID: 2190
Dianna says...
Hello Ryan - it's not just mango trees, don't fertilise anything if you've just transplanted it. If you want to use the sheep manure and blood and bone, mix them together now and let it compost down a bit. That mix would be high in nitrogen, you would then need some superphosphate to encourage flowering and fruit. Then some potash for general good health, etc. Don't forget a bit of Trace Element Mix.
I wonder how Joe is going with his mango tree in England? If he's kept it going through one winter, there might be hope yet! (oh, I know, global warming)
Hello Ryan - it's not just mango trees, don't fertilise anything if you've just transplanted it. If you want to use the sheep manure and blood and bone, mix them together now and let it compost down a bit. That mix would be high in nitrogen, you would then need some superphosphate to encourage flowering and fruit. Then some potash for general good health, etc. Don't forget a bit of Trace Element Mix.
I wonder how Joe is going with his mango tree in England? If he's kept it going through one winter, there might be hope yet! (oh, I know, global warming)
Dianna
Greenbank in Queensland
18th April 2009 6:13pm
#UserID: 181
Valencia says...
I have a Valencia Mango. Just purchased about 3 months ago about 6 ft tall. Stem is about an inch thick. has grown about 40 new leaves. All I hear is that it is a huge tree. Is that right? I'm afraid that it doesn't rain enough here about 23 inches per year. Although I do water it every 2-3 days.
I have a Valencia Mango. Just purchased about 3 months ago about 6 ft tall. Stem is about an inch thick. has grown about 40 new leaves. All I hear is that it is a huge tree. Is that right? I'm afraid that it doesn't rain enough here about 23 inches per year. Although I do water it every 2-3 days.
Valencia
mcallen Texas USA
21st April 2009 4:28am
#UserID: 2221
Dianna says...
Hello Valencia, What type of mango do you have? The old fashioned 'turpentine' mango trees are huge! But the newer hybrid types are smaller and better behaved. If your tree is in the ground, make sure you put lots of mulch around (not against the trunk), to keep the moisture in the soil, they like lots of water. Give it a good drink once a week in Spring when they are supposed to be flowering and fruiting.
Hello Valencia, What type of mango do you have? The old fashioned 'turpentine' mango trees are huge! But the newer hybrid types are smaller and better behaved. If your tree is in the ground, make sure you put lots of mulch around (not against the trunk), to keep the moisture in the soil, they like lots of water. Give it a good drink once a week in Spring when they are supposed to be flowering and fruiting.
Dianna
Greenbank Queensland
25th April 2009 8:10am
#UserID: 0
Bob In Miami says...
Valencia - I have one of those trees here in Miami - It does get pretty tall, & needs regular trimming to keep it from getting too big. It, like all mangos, is fully tropical and cannot stand freezing. At my location, we get 40 - 50" of rain annually, most falling MJJASO. The rest of the year, we usually get less than 5", so frequent watering while the tree is fruiting is necessary if natural rainfall is insufficient.
Rainfall when the tree is in flower (or a freeze) is bad
Good luck.
Valencia - I have one of those trees here in Miami - It does get pretty tall, & needs regular trimming to keep it from getting too big. It, like all mangos, is fully tropical and cannot stand freezing. At my location, we get 40 - 50" of rain annually, most falling MJJASO. The rest of the year, we usually get less than 5", so frequent watering while the tree is fruiting is necessary if natural rainfall is insufficient.
Rainfall when the tree is in flower (or a freeze) is bad
Good luck.
Bob In Miami
Miami, FL
3rd May 2009 12:45pm
#UserID: 2115
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Nat says...
Hi. I planted a small mango tree last spring - and it has not grown at all! I kept it watered well and it gets a lot of sun (but not full sun). I don't know why it hasn't grown anything new in a whole year, but yet doesn't look like it died.
Does it take time to start to develop? It's only about 3 feet tall.
Hi. I planted a small mango tree last spring - and it has not grown at all! I kept it watered well and it gets a lot of sun (but not full sun). I don't know why it hasn't grown anything new in a whole year, but yet doesn't look like it died.
Does it take time to start to develop? It's only about 3 feet tall.
Nat
Southern California
5th May 2009 3:08pm
#UserID: 2282
amanda says...
We live on a hill 1km from ocean. It's hot, windy and semi-arid. We have alkaline yellow 'brickies' sand. I improve my soil with an acidic clay from the brick-works - it's been the best thing I have ever done for our gutless, water-repellant sand. I mulch with pine-bark for fruit trees that don't like alkalinity and use heaps of manure. My friend was commercial mangoe grower in Carnarvon he says: they grow slow and only in summer when it's hot. Withold water and fertilisers prior to flowering (hard for us cos it's our rainy season - remember they flower in the tropical dry) then when fruit set water heaps. Mine are doing ok - don't like the wind but soil is no problem - they are healthy but slow (3 kensingtons - the only one he suggests growing sub-tropical and temperate)Have also read on many occasions that you don't give mature trees fertiliser - is this true?
We live on a hill 1km from ocean. It's hot, windy and semi-arid. We have alkaline yellow 'brickies' sand. I improve my soil with an acidic clay from the brick-works - it's been the best thing I have ever done for our gutless, water-repellant sand. I mulch with pine-bark for fruit trees that don't like alkalinity and use heaps of manure. My friend was commercial mangoe grower in Carnarvon he says: they grow slow and only in summer when it's hot. Withold water and fertilisers prior to flowering (hard for us cos it's our rainy season - remember they flower in the tropical dry) then when fruit set water heaps. Mine are doing ok - don't like the wind but soil is no problem - they are healthy but slow (3 kensingtons - the only one he suggests growing sub-tropical and temperate)Have also read on many occasions that you don't give mature trees fertiliser - is this true?
amanda
geraldton WA
10th May 2009 5:21pm
#UserID: 2309
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Dianna says...
Hello Amanda, "don't give mature trees fertiliser" - this sounds too much like an urban myth. If you have perfect soil, then maybe you wouldn't need to fertilise. But if you've got anything else, surely you would have to give the tree all the nutrients it needs, including trace elements and potash, if you want to have a good crop and a healthy tree.
I wonder if our overseas friends understand 'tropical dry'?
Happy Gardening.
Hello Amanda, "don't give mature trees fertiliser" - this sounds too much like an urban myth. If you have perfect soil, then maybe you wouldn't need to fertilise. But if you've got anything else, surely you would have to give the tree all the nutrients it needs, including trace elements and potash, if you want to have a good crop and a healthy tree.
I wonder if our overseas friends understand 'tropical dry'?
Happy Gardening.
Dianna
Greenbank Qld
14th May 2009 10:41am
#UserID: 0
joe
14th May 2009 11:54am
#UserID: 0
amanda says...
Yup dianna - I am inclined to agree - but....must state that we lived in Cairns for 5 yrs and our big old mangoe trees got zilch - nice soil but totally leached by heavy (heavy!) rain - they were laden every year.
I may be a dag but I am a big fan of Peter Cundalls advice - spoilt trees don't flower - there is no need for them to.
If u have or use clay and straw - lots K+ - if u use manures - no need for trace elements. Just make sure they get enough N and some P. If u have deficiencies - it's most likely your soil chemistry is not right.
To Nat in S.Cal - give it as much sun, water and food as u can - i suspect your climate may be similar to ours? (dry n hot) Once these guys get their 'roots down' they take off. Water long and deeply to encourage this. They will never find the ground water otherwise - u will have very drought tolerant trees if u can get them off to a good start. So what is your climate like? I'd be interested to hear - as it's suggested it's similar to West Australia (true mediterranean)?
Yup dianna - I am inclined to agree - but....must state that we lived in Cairns for 5 yrs and our big old mangoe trees got zilch - nice soil but totally leached by heavy (heavy!) rain - they were laden every year.
I may be a dag but I am a big fan of Peter Cundalls advice - spoilt trees don't flower - there is no need for them to.
If u have or use clay and straw - lots K+ - if u use manures - no need for trace elements. Just make sure they get enough N and some P. If u have deficiencies - it's most likely your soil chemistry is not right.
To Nat in S.Cal - give it as much sun, water and food as u can - i suspect your climate may be similar to ours? (dry n hot) Once these guys get their 'roots down' they take off. Water long and deeply to encourage this. They will never find the ground water otherwise - u will have very drought tolerant trees if u can get them off to a good start. So what is your climate like? I'd be interested to hear - as it's suggested it's similar to West Australia (true mediterranean)?
amanda
geraldton WA
14th May 2009 8:56pm
#UserID: 2309
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Nat says...
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for the tip. After reading many of the notes - I've started watering more and a lot more deeply. I have to buy some food for it. My fear is that we don't have enough hot sun. Living by the beach - it is only about 70 degrees F each day. I hope that's not it... but I'll give it another year of water & food to see if it takes off. If not I might have to give up.
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for the tip. After reading many of the notes - I've started watering more and a lot more deeply. I have to buy some food for it. My fear is that we don't have enough hot sun. Living by the beach - it is only about 70 degrees F each day. I hope that's not it... but I'll give it another year of water & food to see if it takes off. If not I might have to give up.
Nat
Southern California
16th May 2009 7:18am
#UserID: 2282
Fran says...
Reading your post may have given me the answer to the problems our mango tree has been having. We purchased it at a local plan nursery about eight years ago. Two years after planting, it had three mangoes and two the year after. The following year we had a hurricane and the tree hasn't had a mango since then. However, after reading your post, it may be because our mango tree is right next to our septic tank AND we've been watering it! It has had massive leaf and branch die-back. I will try the miracle grow treatment and give it one more chance.
Reading your post may have given me the answer to the problems our mango tree has been having. We purchased it at a local plan nursery about eight years ago. Two years after planting, it had three mangoes and two the year after. The following year we had a hurricane and the tree hasn't had a mango since then. However, after reading your post, it may be because our mango tree is right next to our septic tank AND we've been watering it! It has had massive leaf and branch die-back. I will try the miracle grow treatment and give it one more chance.
Fran
Bahamas
24th May 2009 8:26am
#UserID: 2370
amanda says...
Hi Fran - I'm no expert but if it's feeding off the septic then I wouldn't fertilise it...(it may even be wrecking your septic...?) Established Mangoe trees that are over fertilised produce vegetative growth rather than fruit. Feed and water once it's flowering or setting fruit and then again after harvest - otherwise leave it alone. It's probably not a good idea to fertilise it if it's still sick either.
Young mangoe trees need a lot of feeding and watering to get them going. Maybe you should wait n see...and get your tanks etc checked for root invasion too! :)
Hi Fran - I'm no expert but if it's feeding off the septic then I wouldn't fertilise it...(it may even be wrecking your septic...?) Established Mangoe trees that are over fertilised produce vegetative growth rather than fruit. Feed and water once it's flowering or setting fruit and then again after harvest - otherwise leave it alone. It's probably not a good idea to fertilise it if it's still sick either.
Young mangoe trees need a lot of feeding and watering to get them going. Maybe you should wait n see...and get your tanks etc checked for root invasion too! :)
amanda
geraldton. WA
24th May 2009 8:01pm
#UserID: 2309
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Susan says...
I was having a problem like this. Actually this year I got some blooms and it started to bear fruit and then they all fell off. A friends husband sugested Liquid Copper Fungicide, can be purchased at home depot or lowes. This is the first year I am actually getting some where! I had to apply everyday for the first week, directly on the blooms and then once a week for the next two months. Apparently mango trees get some kind of fungus that doesn't allow them to bear fruit or the fruit falls off before it is ready! Hope it works for you.
I was having a problem like this. Actually this year I got some blooms and it started to bear fruit and then they all fell off. A friends husband sugested Liquid Copper Fungicide, can be purchased at home depot or lowes. This is the first year I am actually getting some where! I had to apply everyday for the first week, directly on the blooms and then once a week for the next two months. Apparently mango trees get some kind of fungus that doesn't allow them to bear fruit or the fruit falls off before it is ready! Hope it works for you.
Susan
Florida
30th May 2009 8:16am
#UserID: 2400
Fran
Bahamas
1st June 2009 11:40am
#UserID: 2370
randey says...
i dont neccessarily recommend this but a burmese friend of mine suggested that i belt my white sapote with the back of an axe to shock it into fruiting eg. help i`m under attack, better reproduce to save my species. it worked and the next month lo and behold....flowers galore which turned into about 20 fruit. and it hasn`t stopped fruiting.the alternative is to stand next to it with a chainsaw and wave it menacingly in its direction.....just kidding
i dont neccessarily recommend this but a burmese friend of mine suggested that i belt my white sapote with the back of an axe to shock it into fruiting eg. help i`m under attack, better reproduce to save my species. it worked and the next month lo and behold....flowers galore which turned into about 20 fruit. and it hasn`t stopped fruiting.the alternative is to stand next to it with a chainsaw and wave it menacingly in its direction.....just kidding
randey
perth
5th June 2009 8:44am
#UserID: 2306
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Ruben says...
Every year these small white insects (moths?) show up on our mangos and on the stems. I'm convinced that these little guys harm the fruit but I don't know how. Some of our mangos fall off while still green and sometimes they appear to be rotting from the inside out, at the seeds. We have a ficus hedge near our tree and I have also seen these in the ficus. They only seem to come on the mango tree after it has flowered. Can anyone tell me what these are and tell me more about them? Is there a safe way to control them?
Every year these small white insects (moths?) show up on our mangos and on the stems. I'm convinced that these little guys harm the fruit but I don't know how. Some of our mangos fall off while still green and sometimes they appear to be rotting from the inside out, at the seeds. We have a ficus hedge near our tree and I have also seen these in the ficus. They only seem to come on the mango tree after it has flowered. Can anyone tell me what these are and tell me more about them? Is there a safe way to control them?
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
Ruben
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
5th June 2009 10:48am
#UserID: 2426
amanda says...
Hi randey - Speedy mentioned whacking the tree too - he said something to do with tree releasing hormones in response?
As an aside - My white sapote is going really well - 3yrs now - but are they always such a buggar to prune? I can't seem to get it to make a good shape..are they always whippy n bendy? Did yours have this problem and did it carry the fruit ok?
Hi randey - Speedy mentioned whacking the tree too - he said something to do with tree releasing hormones in response?
As an aside - My white sapote is going really well - 3yrs now - but are they always such a buggar to prune? I can't seem to get it to make a good shape..are they always whippy n bendy? Did yours have this problem and did it carry the fruit ok?
amanda
geraldton.WA
5th June 2009 10:50am
#UserID: 2309
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Speedy says...
Ruben,
I can't quite see them properly (photo a bit blurry) ,but those insects look like some sort of leafhopper.
An insect that sucks the sap of plants.
The fallen fruit may have succumbed to a disorder known as 'jellyseed'.
I'm not sure what causes it ,
but some cvs. are more susceptible than others.
Ruben,
I can't quite see them properly (photo a bit blurry) ,but those insects look like some sort of leafhopper.
An insect that sucks the sap of plants.
The fallen fruit may have succumbed to a disorder known as 'jellyseed'.
I'm not sure what causes it ,
but some cvs. are more susceptible than others.
Speedy
Swan Hill, Vic
5th June 2009 11:17am
#UserID: 2305
randey says...
hi amanda, just thought i`d look in on the forum to see whats happening re: sapote. and yes my tree grew to about 4m and it was a bugger to prune, so i got one of those long handled pruners, a secateur on a stick and that made it so much easier. even though the limbs are quite spindly they had no trouble supporting the weight of the fruit, with some clumps having up to 7-8 fruit. BUT BEWARE when they get too ripe the last thing you want is to be standing under one when it drops. SPLAT. i also bought myself a long handled fruit harvester, basically a bag on a pole with a plastic ring around the top with notches in the side to allow the stems to be caught and twisted off, and the fruit falls into the bag. talk to you soon.
hi amanda, just thought i`d look in on the forum to see whats happening re: sapote. and yes my tree grew to about 4m and it was a bugger to prune, so i got one of those long handled pruners, a secateur on a stick and that made it so much easier. even though the limbs are quite spindly they had no trouble supporting the weight of the fruit, with some clumps having up to 7-8 fruit. BUT BEWARE when they get too ripe the last thing you want is to be standing under one when it drops. SPLAT. i also bought myself a long handled fruit harvester, basically a bag on a pole with a plastic ring around the top with notches in the side to allow the stems to be caught and twisted off, and the fruit falls into the bag. talk to you soon.
randey
perth
7th June 2009 9:17pm
#UserID: 2306
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amanda says...
Thanks Randey...must watch for the 'splat' factor :))
I just hacked mine....oops..but it's a tough so n so - it handles everything that Gero' that throws at it and keeps coming back for more... I think it's one of the toughest fruit trees I have!
I have one lemon gold only - but interested in planting more - what have u got?
Thanks Randey...must watch for the 'splat' factor :))
I just hacked mine....oops..but it's a tough so n so - it handles everything that Gero' that throws at it and keeps coming back for more... I think it's one of the toughest fruit trees I have!
I have one lemon gold only - but interested in planting more - what have u got?
amanda
geraldton.WA
7th June 2009 10:44pm
#UserID: 2309
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randey says...
hi amanda.unfortunately, the same as yours. but the good thing is the the seeds are so easy to propogate. i always had to pick up my deadfalls so as they wouldnt rot and take root. i must say that just about everywhere i visit on the forum i see geraldton amanda. you, like me seem to have a smorgasbord of fruit trees and the knowledge to go with them. nice to speak to someone with a like interest
hi amanda.unfortunately, the same as yours. but the good thing is the the seeds are so easy to propogate. i always had to pick up my deadfalls so as they wouldnt rot and take root. i must say that just about everywhere i visit on the forum i see geraldton amanda. you, like me seem to have a smorgasbord of fruit trees and the knowledge to go with them. nice to speak to someone with a like interest
randey
perth
11th June 2009 6:34pm
#UserID: 2306
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amanda says...
Hi Randey - I reckon that we are quite lucky from Perth and north that we can actually grow quite an amazing variety of fruit. We have the same growing days as Brisbane+ -but no weird hail storms/frost. And despite our crappy sand - it does drain well - a huge bonus in the long run.
Without wanting to sound wishy-washy - my 'feeling' is to improve the top-soil with organics and clay etc to improve it's water retention/humus levels and leave the sandy sub-soil alone - due to it's good drainage. Best of both worlds maybe??
I am really impressed with the white sapote and yes I think I am a Daleys forum addict!!? :))
Hi Randey - I reckon that we are quite lucky from Perth and north that we can actually grow quite an amazing variety of fruit. We have the same growing days as Brisbane+ -but no weird hail storms/frost. And despite our crappy sand - it does drain well - a huge bonus in the long run.
Without wanting to sound wishy-washy - my 'feeling' is to improve the top-soil with organics and clay etc to improve it's water retention/humus levels and leave the sandy sub-soil alone - due to it's good drainage. Best of both worlds maybe??
I am really impressed with the white sapote and yes I think I am a Daleys forum addict!!? :))
amanda
geraldton.WA
11th June 2009 9:30pm
#UserID: 2309
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leekahjun
14th June 2009 1:00pm
#UserID: 0
randey says...
hi amanda, you were asking about different varieties before. i said i only had the white but on reflection i do have a "black" sapote though in truth it is really a member of the persimmon family, grows to the size of a medium sized apple and when ripe is chocolate brown inside. it`s often referred to as the choclate pudding plant and is absolutely delicious mixed with ice cream and yes it also is affected with the SPLAT factor
hi amanda, you were asking about different varieties before. i said i only had the white but on reflection i do have a "black" sapote though in truth it is really a member of the persimmon family, grows to the size of a medium sized apple and when ripe is chocolate brown inside. it`s often referred to as the choclate pudding plant and is absolutely delicious mixed with ice cream and yes it also is affected with the SPLAT factor
randey
perth
15th June 2009 11:07pm
#UserID: 2306
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ian says...
i have a mango tree in my back yard ive only lived here for 6 weeks the neibour says its never fruited and he has been here for 30 years i think its not that old but its 25 foot high healthy looking nice green leaves looks like it has some flower buds happening how can i get this tree to fruit please help ,iwill never get rid of it its shades the miniture rainforest under and around it ,but it would be nice to get some fruit i love mangoes
i have a mango tree in my back yard ive only lived here for 6 weeks the neibour says its never fruited and he has been here for 30 years i think its not that old but its 25 foot high healthy looking nice green leaves looks like it has some flower buds happening how can i get this tree to fruit please help ,iwill never get rid of it its shades the miniture rainforest under and around it ,but it would be nice to get some fruit i love mangoes
ian
bribie island
30th July 2009 11:19am
#UserID: 2598
BobbyB says...
If you think that those are flower buds then try to get some potash (sometimes with manganese is less expensive) and give it every 30 days through the fruiting to promote the fruit. Do not give regular fertizler as it has nitrogen which promotes growth not flowers and fruit. You need to have bees to pollinate or you won't get fruit no matter how many flowers you have. Good luck!
If you think that those are flower buds then try to get some potash (sometimes with manganese is less expensive) and give it every 30 days through the fruiting to promote the fruit. Do not give regular fertizler as it has nitrogen which promotes growth not flowers and fruit. You need to have bees to pollinate or you won't get fruit no matter how many flowers you have. Good luck!
BobbyB
Maimi Fl
1st August 2009 9:20am
#UserID: 1443
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rolf says...
Potasium is a must but dont make the mistake I made, when the flowers came out I sparayed the blowflies these are the polinators since then I have been very fortunate with fruit encourage flies, aparently the flowers are not a nice smell to us, old piece of meat works, at the moment I have new shoots and should have flowers in late spring for fruit in december.
Potasium is a must but dont make the mistake I made, when the flowers came out I sparayed the blowflies these are the polinators since then I have been very fortunate with fruit encourage flies, aparently the flowers are not a nice smell to us, old piece of meat works, at the moment I have new shoots and should have flowers in late spring for fruit in december.
rolf
dapto nsw
1st August 2009 9:29am
#UserID: 0
amanda
Geraldton. WA
1st August 2009 11:47am
#UserID: 2309
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SeaLady says...
Hi All, I wanted to comment of several different issues I read here, we are taught here in Melbourne - Florida that is never to fertilize your mango once it flowers because you will encourage leaf growth and not fruit. Though potash is suppose to be pretty good for them. But your soil there may be very different, here we have a lot of sand, but are told once established mango's don't need much because this is the enviornment they are use to.
As to a lack of production - I have 8 varieties of mango, the Nam Doc Mai is my most prolific - the fruit actually hangs in clusters like grapes - I got over 500 mango's from that tree this year.
I have a Julie, still small but abut 20 fruit, a Keitt which is a large mango and late season, the tree does not get enough sun so it is not as big as it could be, but still about 20 fruit - I need to cut the mulberry for more sun.
I have a mystery mango that is very large, but only has produced 30 fruit - a good rule of thumb is you MUST cut out a foot of good wood from the tree each year for every inch of trunk. So if your trunk is 6" you should cut about 6 feet of good mature wood out of the tree.
Mango's also need good air flow thru the canopy so cutting some in the center of the tree can help.
I also have a Beverly and a Southern Blush which are probably the best tasting mango's, sweet juicy, no fiber but they are my worst producers - maybe 10 - 15 mango's on these two trees.
I am going to beat them this fall - to do just what someone else mentioned above - threaten them within an inch of their lives - it does stress the tree and it believes it needs to produce as it is going to die.
I also have a Malika, first year fruiting - got about 12 large mango's from it - it is unusual in that you must pick the fruit and ripen it off the tree or they will not taste good.
My newest is a Pickering - it is suppose to have a bit of a coconut flavor to it.
I need to spray with the copper next year, too many blossoms fell off and on some trees a lot of black spots. I live out on our barrier island so get a lot of wind and salt spray which contributes to blossom drop.
Also as far as I know, if you grow a mango from seed you have a 50/50 chance of getting that mango vs it's root stock, so you may end up growing a turpintine mango.
I also grow mulberries, coconut, pineapple, cinnamon, allspice, limequat, passion fruit and 20 varieties of banana.
I do have questions on how to harvest my cinnamon - it is about 15' tall and how to get my passion fruit to flower.
My sweet calabash passion fruit is new and is producing, this is a hard shelled fruit, I have never had this kind before, the first one I opened didn't seem to be ripe, the next one had dried up, how does one know when to open them to eat?
I've tried cutting back the passion fruit before and have gotten it last year to flower and did hand pollination, but no flowers this year.
Sorry for such a long post, but I found your site most interesting.
Hi All, I wanted to comment of several different issues I read here, we are taught here in Melbourne - Florida that is never to fertilize your mango once it flowers because you will encourage leaf growth and not fruit. Though potash is suppose to be pretty good for them. But your soil there may be very different, here we have a lot of sand, but are told once established mango's don't need much because this is the enviornment they are use to.
As to a lack of production - I have 8 varieties of mango, the Nam Doc Mai is my most prolific - the fruit actually hangs in clusters like grapes - I got over 500 mango's from that tree this year.
I have a Julie, still small but abut 20 fruit, a Keitt which is a large mango and late season, the tree does not get enough sun so it is not as big as it could be, but still about 20 fruit - I need to cut the mulberry for more sun.
I have a mystery mango that is very large, but only has produced 30 fruit - a good rule of thumb is you MUST cut out a foot of good wood from the tree each year for every inch of trunk. So if your trunk is 6" you should cut about 6 feet of good mature wood out of the tree.
Mango's also need good air flow thru the canopy so cutting some in the center of the tree can help.
I also have a Beverly and a Southern Blush which are probably the best tasting mango's, sweet juicy, no fiber but they are my worst producers - maybe 10 - 15 mango's on these two trees.
I am going to beat them this fall - to do just what someone else mentioned above - threaten them within an inch of their lives - it does stress the tree and it believes it needs to produce as it is going to die.
I also have a Malika, first year fruiting - got about 12 large mango's from it - it is unusual in that you must pick the fruit and ripen it off the tree or they will not taste good.
My newest is a Pickering - it is suppose to have a bit of a coconut flavor to it.
I need to spray with the copper next year, too many blossoms fell off and on some trees a lot of black spots. I live out on our barrier island so get a lot of wind and salt spray which contributes to blossom drop.
Also as far as I know, if you grow a mango from seed you have a 50/50 chance of getting that mango vs it's root stock, so you may end up growing a turpintine mango.
I also grow mulberries, coconut, pineapple, cinnamon, allspice, limequat, passion fruit and 20 varieties of banana.
I do have questions on how to harvest my cinnamon - it is about 15' tall and how to get my passion fruit to flower.
My sweet calabash passion fruit is new and is producing, this is a hard shelled fruit, I have never had this kind before, the first one I opened didn't seem to be ripe, the next one had dried up, how does one know when to open them to eat?
I've tried cutting back the passion fruit before and have gotten it last year to flower and did hand pollination, but no flowers this year.
Sorry for such a long post, but I found your site most interesting.
SeaLady
Florida
2nd August 2009 6:43am
#UserID: 2606
Carol
Pine Creek darwin
3rd August 2009 3:20pm
#UserID: 2612
Anna
Melbourne
3rd August 2009 5:41pm
#UserID: 0
randey says...
hi carol, i thought i was doing my kensington a favour by giving it copious amounts of water during its early fruit forming stage, until i noticed that some of the more mature fruit started to swell and split. i immediately stopped the watering and was lucky enough to only have about 6 that actually split. i resumed watering after about a week and a half but regulated the supply and was rewarded with about 4 dozen fat juicy mangoes. now the thing is because you live in darwin you would be getting big mobs of water in the rainy season. is the plant in a pot or in the ground, can make a difference re drainage
hi carol, i thought i was doing my kensington a favour by giving it copious amounts of water during its early fruit forming stage, until i noticed that some of the more mature fruit started to swell and split. i immediately stopped the watering and was lucky enough to only have about 6 that actually split. i resumed watering after about a week and a half but regulated the supply and was rewarded with about 4 dozen fat juicy mangoes. now the thing is because you live in darwin you would be getting big mobs of water in the rainy season. is the plant in a pot or in the ground, can make a difference re drainage
randey
perth
3rd August 2009 11:10pm
#UserID: 2306
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BobbyB says...
-- Try the Cushman mango - the best!! big round turns yellow with some blush when ripe. I have 17 different kinds of mangos and basically I won't eat anything else!! MY Keit has/had 200 mangos this year and it is only about 15 feet tall... regarding seedlings.. the way that you get a new cultivar is to let the seed sprout then graft the bud wood from it to a mature tree. If the fruit is good then you name it and there you go. takes a long time and not a really high probability of success. Usually it reverts back to the rootstock.
-- Try the Cushman mango - the best!! big round turns yellow with some blush when ripe. I have 17 different kinds of mangos and basically I won't eat anything else!! MY Keit has/had 200 mangos this year and it is only about 15 feet tall... regarding seedlings.. the way that you get a new cultivar is to let the seed sprout then graft the bud wood from it to a mature tree. If the fruit is good then you name it and there you go. takes a long time and not a really high probability of success. Usually it reverts back to the rootstock.
BobbyB
Miami,fl
8th August 2009 12:00pm
#UserID: 0
macleaymac
macleay Island brisbane
8th August 2009 7:18pm
#UserID: 1925
Steve says...
I live in a unit in Brisbane and have a large patio so I planted a Bowen Mango tree. It started to grow very well and I had a lot of new growth. But abiut two weeks ago I noticed that most of the new leaves we being eaten by something. I do not see any insects or anything on the underside of the leaves. We are in the city and I have not seen any wild animals. We are two levels up from the ground and have not seen any birds.
Do you have any ideas on what it may be and what I can do?
I live in a unit in Brisbane and have a large patio so I planted a Bowen Mango tree. It started to grow very well and I had a lot of new growth. But abiut two weeks ago I noticed that most of the new leaves we being eaten by something. I do not see any insects or anything on the underside of the leaves. We are in the city and I have not seen any wild animals. We are two levels up from the ground and have not seen any birds.
Do you have any ideas on what it may be and what I can do?
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 | |
Steve
Brisbane
11th August 2009 7:55am
#UserID: 2649
Ellen
Smithfield
11th August 2009 9:16am
#UserID: 1339
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amanda
Geraldton. WA
11th August 2009 9:28am
#UserID: 2309
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northguys says...
Hi, When we moved here 8 years ago there was a Bowen mango in the backyard, about 5m high and I guess well over 10-15 years old and used to be laden with fruit, over the last 3-4 years there has been hardly any new growth, the tree has been cut back pretty drastically but we are getting no new leaves let alone flowers or fruit. With our water restrictions it is hard to give it more water, we have used blood & bone but not that often. Any suggestions.....I will try to get some photo's on here tomorrow. Really appreciate any suggestions before my partner gets the tree loppers in.
Hi, When we moved here 8 years ago there was a Bowen mango in the backyard, about 5m high and I guess well over 10-15 years old and used to be laden with fruit, over the last 3-4 years there has been hardly any new growth, the tree has been cut back pretty drastically but we are getting no new leaves let alone flowers or fruit. With our water restrictions it is hard to give it more water, we have used blood & bone but not that often. Any suggestions.....I will try to get some photo's on here tomorrow. Really appreciate any suggestions before my partner gets the tree loppers in.
| Pictures - Click to enlarge | ||
 Picture: 1 |  Picture: 2 |  Picture: 3 |
 Picture: 4 | ||
northguys
Brisbane
24th October 2009 7:25pm
#UserID: 2940
Wayne
Mackay QLD
24th October 2009 7:53pm
#UserID: 338
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northguys
Brisbane
29th October 2009 9:27am
#UserID: 2940
Wayne says...
That tree looks like it is dieing, at a guess starved to death by those palms. In photo 1 - cut those two vertical limbs in the centre right back to within 6" of the trunk.
In photo 4 - cut those limbs going upwards. What you should end up with is low hanging branches with leaves, if a limb hasn't got leaves cut it off and don't be afraid of hurting the tree.
If you want you can cut them all off right back leaving just those forks on above the tree, then paint the tree with a water based white paint.
If it becomes evident that the palms are killing the tree you could hire a trencher and dig a trench 3' deep between the palms and the tree and fill it with concrete. Have a scratch around close to the tree and see if there are any palm roots there, they are surface feeders.
I'll see if I can find some more info for you but that tree sure is sick
That tree looks like it is dieing, at a guess starved to death by those palms. In photo 1 - cut those two vertical limbs in the centre right back to within 6" of the trunk.
In photo 4 - cut those limbs going upwards. What you should end up with is low hanging branches with leaves, if a limb hasn't got leaves cut it off and don't be afraid of hurting the tree.
If you want you can cut them all off right back leaving just those forks on above the tree, then paint the tree with a water based white paint.
If it becomes evident that the palms are killing the tree you could hire a trencher and dig a trench 3' deep between the palms and the tree and fill it with concrete. Have a scratch around close to the tree and see if there are any palm roots there, they are surface feeders.
I'll see if I can find some more info for you but that tree sure is sick
Wayne
Mackay QLD
29th October 2009 9:54am
#UserID: 338
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Wayne
Mackay QLD
29th October 2009 10:00am
#UserID: 338
View All Wayne's Edible Fruit Trees
Tropicdude says...
Stress will stimulate flowering in a mango tree, of course this should be timed so that flowering and fruiting coincides with the normal season of that tree. if your always watering your mango tree, it will never be stressed that way, and will just grow to be a big barren tree! also lots of rain when flowers appear is also bad, fungus on flowers, and pollen wash will reduce fertilization.
here is an excerpt from "fruit growing in the tropics"
"Since growth comes first, stimulating growth is unlikely to improve
flowering and fruiting. For instance: watering a mango tree during the
dry season to avoid stress will lead to more flushing at the expense of
flowering. Figure 2 shows the rapid increase in branching of a mango
tree growing in ever-wet conditions; the tree did not flower at all."
"Stress and seasonal yield
While the grower of single-stemmed fruit crops does his best to make
sure that his crops do not suffer stress, for intermittently growing
branched fruit trees a period of stress is in fact welcome – or necessary.
A period of unfavourable weather, like a cold or dry season, stops
shoot growth and gives the twigs time to initiate floral buds. Low
temperature is more effective than drought, as can be shown by comparing
fruit crops such as citrus, mango and avocado, which grow in
the subtropics as well as in the tropics"
"Citrus, mango and avocado in the tropics and subtropics
For all three crops, a rule of thumb is that in the tropics the trees grow twice
as fast and yield only half as much as in the subtropics. In the tropics the dry
season often does not check shoot growth effectively, resulting in large trees
and insufficient twig rest to ensure good flowering and fruiting. In the subtropics,
winter does stop shoot growth; moreover it stimulates formation of floral
buds, resulting in small, profusely flowering trees. But in the subtropics inclement
springtime weather often leads to poor fruit set. And if fruit sets well
this may lead to overbearing and shortage of shoots that flower next year, resulting
in biennial bearing"
Anyway, there are many methods to cause stress, and ADO5 ( Agrodok 5 ) has many explanations on how to do this. the idea is to stop flushing and stimulate flowersgrowth at the proper time of year to synchronize the tree, things like fertilizer and rain/watering do all the opposite !
Here in the Dominican Republic, we have excellent mangoes, this is due to the fact that our dry season coincides with our winter/early spring. this means that trees will flower and get fertilized before the rainy season or watering. the best mangoes production here grow in areas that get less rain!
Once tree has fruits, go ahead and water if necessary.
Stress will stimulate flowering in a mango tree, of course this should be timed so that flowering and fruiting coincides with the normal season of that tree. if your always watering your mango tree, it will never be stressed that way, and will just grow to be a big barren tree! also lots of rain when flowers appear is also bad, fungus on flowers, and pollen wash will reduce fertilization.
here is an excerpt from "fruit growing in the tropics"
"Since growth comes first, stimulating growth is unlikely to improve
flowering and fruiting. For instance: watering a mango tree during the
dry season to avoid stress will lead to more flushing at the expense of
flowering. Figure 2 shows the rapid increase in branching of a mango
tree growing in ever-wet conditions; the tree did not flower at all."
"Stress and seasonal yield
While the grower of single-stemmed fruit crops does his best to make
sure that his crops do not suffer stress, for intermittently growing
branched fruit trees a period of stress is in fact welcome – or necessary.
A period of unfavourable weather, like a cold or dry season, stops
shoot growth and gives the twigs time to initiate floral buds. Low
temperature is more effective than drought, as can be shown by comparing
fruit crops such as citrus, mango and avocado, which grow in
the subtropics as well as in the tropics"
"Citrus, mango and avocado in the tropics and subtropics
For all three crops, a rule of thumb is that in the tropics the trees grow twice
as fast and yield only half as much as in the subtropics. In the tropics the dry
season often does not check shoot growth effectively, resulting in large trees
and insufficient twig rest to ensure good flowering and fruiting. In the subtropics,
winter does stop shoot growth; moreover it stimulates formation of floral
buds, resulting in small, profusely flowering trees. But in the subtropics inclement
springtime weather often leads to poor fruit set. And if fruit sets well
this may lead to overbearing and shortage of shoots that flower next year, resulting
in biennial bearing"
Anyway, there are many methods to cause stress, and ADO5 ( Agrodok 5 ) has many explanations on how to do this. the idea is to stop flushing and stimulate flowersgrowth at the proper time of year to synchronize the tree, things like fertilizer and rain/watering do all the opposite !
Here in the Dominican Republic, we have excellent mangoes, this is due to the fact that our dry season coincides with our winter/early spring. this means that trees will flower and get fertilized before the rainy season or watering. the best mangoes production here grow in areas that get less rain!
Once tree has fruits, go ahead and water if necessary.
Tropicdude
30th October 2009 7:55am
#UserID: 2856
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northguys says...
Hi Wayne, Thanks very much for the information, I wasn't sure how much we could cut it back without hurting the tree, but after seeing the pic you loaded and your comments it will get a good cut back and will also paint it, should the whole tree be painted, all branches, including those that do have leaves ? Also will have a look and see about the roots from the palms, do you suggest feeding it ? and if so what and how often would you say ?
Hi Wayne, Thanks very much for the information, I wasn't sure how much we could cut it back without hurting the tree, but after seeing the pic you loaded and your comments it will get a good cut back and will also paint it, should the whole tree be painted, all branches, including those that do have leaves ? Also will have a look and see about the roots from the palms, do you suggest feeding it ? and if so what and how often would you say ?
northguys
Brisbane
31st October 2009 8:35pm
#UserID: 2940