Windbreak fence probem (forum)

amanda starts with ...
Hi All, I am hoping that many heads are better than one here - as I am at a loss. This is my windbreak fence round my orchard. It is 3.6m high and built by experienced fencing contrators.

The material we used is a commercial grade product called "Rip Stop" - it is a knitted product designed not to tear (like regular shade cloth does). There are three lines of fencing wire that were tensioned - to prevent the fabric stretching and billowing out. On the other side is full height ringlock (so it's ok on the other side).

The tek screws were my own "invention" as we couldn't find a fastening product to suit (pergola ones have too sharp edges = rips) It's a tek srew with a washer and a rubber bung - so that it's soft against the fabric.
These screws work well - but as you can see the fencing wire is working it's way through the fencing staples, from the constant action of the wind! Thus the fabric billows and the whole lot comes apart.

Does anyone have any ideas how to secure the fencing wire so that this might not happen? I would be very grateful to hear them!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 12th June 2010 11:14am

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About the Author amanda19
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Jantina says...
Good grief amanda I've never seen that before! Were the staples hammered in flush to the post to start with and has the movement pulled them out that far?if they were out that far it gives the wire room to behave like a saw(and I thought we had wild winds here!) Will go and see if hubby has any helpful suggestions.

Time: 12th June 2010 11:26am

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About the Author Jantina
Mt. Gambier S.A.
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amanda says...
Hi Jantina - no they were not flush - wouldn't that pinch the fencing wire? Then I wouldn't be able to re-tension it down the track (as it "stretches" after a bit)? Maybe I shouldn't worry about that!
The guys who built it build fences ie: rural fencing. They hadn't built anything like this b4.

Time: 12th June 2010 11:31am

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About the Author amanda19
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Jantina says...
On our kangaroo fencing, I originally used staples and in green pine posts, they eventually work themselves out and need re-hammering. On my electric fence, I also had staples to secure the electrical connectors but I am slowly replacing them with hex head screws made off a corrosion resistant alloy. These are available in 75mm and 100mm at least. I suggest you try these and put a good size washer over the screw to pinch the wire. At the very worst you can then loosen them off if wires need re-tensioning. I have always hammered my staples in to lock the wires down and prevent movement. It shouldn't be too much of a problem if your fence end posts are properly braced and concreted firmly into the ground. It is most economical to buy the hex head screws in boxes of 1000. They are not cheap- I think about $170 a box. They have a greeny coloured coating and non-bright finish. Hope this helps. Geoff

Time: 12th June 2010 12:05pm

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About the Author Jantina
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Ann says...
Hi Amanda,
I'm concerned that you have employed contractors to do this fence (I note they havent built a fence like it before) and would have paid good money.
I would try a kind, firm & earnest plea for assistance back with the guys who built it for you. Just tell them you need their help and see if they will respond to your request and come to your aid.There is a staple that is a square with teeth on it and you nail it on. They come in different sizes. You could enquire about those. Good luck and I will see how you go.
Kind regards,
Ann.

Time: 12th June 2010 12:55pm

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About the Author treegirl
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amanda says...
Thanks Jantina/Geoff n Anne! Jantina - I don't suppose I could ask for a pic please? The fence has been beautifully built - those are telephone-pole length posts - well concreted in and very well braced. I am thinking of using a bigger U staple with a piece of thick polypipe over the wire perhaps? And then pinch it closed. Your method sounds better tho'

As an aside - I made some bird scarers using steel cans with 1/4 inch stainless steel bars thru them..the wind was so persistent that the can eventually cut right thru the stainless bar :-(

Time: 12th June 2010 9:15pm

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About the Author amanda19
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Brendan says...
Hi amanda,
How about some galv. 'perforated strapping' running up the full length of the post(s), and fix it with long s/s screws or long tek screws?
You may have to remove the old tek screws and staples first, so the strapping fits hard up against the post.

And if that doesn't hold it, use full length galv flat (or angle), say 50mm x 6mm. Drill holes through this and fix to the posts with galv 'coach screws' or galv bolts.

Time: 13th June 2010 6:29am

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About the Author Brendan
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Jantina says...
Hey amanda, I'm still trying to organize Geoff to take a picture and post it(he's out playing with the concrete mixer truck at the moment).

Time: 15th June 2010 11:17am

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About the Author Jantina
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amanda says...
It's OK Jantina - hubby explained it to me - it's a great idea - as it allows easy re-tensioning...thanks Geoff! This forum is a great place for solving problems :o)
Thanks to all for the ideas.

Time: 21st June 2010 9:59am

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About the Author amanda19
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