Avocado Disease Identification (forum)
54 responses
Justin starts with ...
I have just noticed that two of my avocado trees (about 4 years old) have lots of branches with splits in them - it's like the outer layer of the branch has split, and all around it is a white powdery substance a bit like chalk dust. Inside the split, the branch has a brown patch.
Otherwise the trees have been healthy up until now, and one is just starting to produce fruit.
Any idea what this is, how serious it is, and how to treat it?
Thanks.
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Time: 20th January 2012 2:47pm
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Peter says...
Justin,
can you do a fresh cut just underneath the split area and take a picture? Also have a smell, if there is a fruity odor. Lets go from there...
Time: 20th January 2012 11:59pm
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Brendan says...
Hi Peter & Justin, for what it's worth, I had an avo branch twice as bad as in the photo. I showed it to Jerry Colby-Williams (from ABC Gardening Aus.) when he was in Mackay. He said, 'your tree has a cold.(?) Spray with Fungus Fighter until it clears up.'
Fungus Fighter is copper hydroxide. I use copper oxychloride.
Try making a paste with either of these and cover the affected area. It should clear it up. If not, cut it off and burn it, or bin it.
Time: 22nd January 2012 9:15am
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Mike says...
The white powdery substance like sugar is just dry sap and mine have spots with it also.I have seen something similar before that did not cause any asting problem.Brendans treatment sounds pretty good and mancozeb also might work.
Time: 22nd January 2012 2:27pm
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Peter says...
Still it would be very interesting to see the area underneath the splits...
Time: 24th January 2012 6:24pm
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Brendan says...
Have to agree Peter, it would be very interesting under the bark.
It looks like either Dothiorella Canker or Phytophthora Stem Canker, mine was the latter I suspect. Because we had a ship-load of rain when my seed-grown 35 year old avocado tree had this, it ended up dying :-(
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Time: 25th January 2012 10:08am
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Peter says...
Yeah, if we can distinguish between Dothiorella and Phytophthora it would be very good. Both require different treatments. Even Phytophthora is often called a fungus, this is not the case (more related to a group of algae) and will therefore not respond to fungicides. But it will to Phosphite. Application of both at the same time is not recommended.
I straight away believe that Mike have seen the same, but it did not cause problems for him - soils in Queensland are in general very suppressive to Phytophthora (if soils are not waterlogged during warm weather). However, the same disease can be more severe in Melbourne soils - they certainly are more in WA compared to Queensland!
So still we need to establish if Dothiorella or Phytophthora.
Time: 25th January 2012 11:08am
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Robert says...
I have a Haas tree and the leaves are turning brown and crispy I was told that maybe it had to much salt. So I repotted it today and found the soil was very wet. While repotting I tore half the roots getting it out of the plastic pot that it came in. How much did I hurt this tree or do they bounce back. Thanks for any help
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Time: 25th January 2012 1:42pm
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amanda says...
Gee Robert - that doesn't look too good :( One of the Avocado folk here may have some good advice. Dilute Seasol is useful to help with any transplant shock? I wouldn't give it any other fert's just yet - maybe wait till u see some new shoots and then try a little blood and bone.
Hopefully it will recover. It might just be a waiting game now.
Avocados hate salt - so ask the guys here what they use for fertilising in pots?
(ps - have u been overwatering it? It may also have developed a root rot.. :(
Time: 25th January 2012 3:41pm
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Mike says...
I didn't want to use the P word.It often manifests as yellowing,loss of turgor and dying of limbs in avos with trunk cankers sometimes forming.In NQ avos in wet areas are pretty prone and it can be an absolute shipfight every wet season.All the same I have seen that condition and just assumed it was not P.The response to fungicide may have been coincidental in cases I've seen.
Time: 25th January 2012 7:21pm
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Peter says...
I am not sure what you mean, Mike.
Anyway, at this stage it would be good to have Justin back. Are you there, Justin?
Time: 25th January 2012 7:33pm
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Mike says...
Peter,by P I mean Phytophthora and avos struggle here every wet season on the coast.The similar problem on my avos which cleared after coppy oxy/mancozeb coincided with the end of the wet season.Perhaps it was phytophthora with different symptoms to that of avo trees that I have seen die of the affliction.If there is any doubt pretty regular phosphite application might be one of the only courses of action.
Time: 25th January 2012 8:00pm
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Peter says...
Thanks, Mike.
Could be that you cleared up only the secondary invaders feeding on the dead tissue caused by Phytophthora (which as a primary invader moves on to more intact tissue) and the end of the wet season was certainly better to get rid of these fungi.
Maybe though it was Dothiorella.
I was thinking of P. citricola, which has different symptoms to P. cinnamomi and does not necessarily cause tree death.
One of the weird things of this forum when it gets to diseases is that the original enquirer disappears, whilst contributors entertain themselves.
By the way: thanks Brendan for the pictures.
Time: 25th January 2012 9:25pm
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Mike says...
That could be the case Peter and the Phytophthora may have been cleared by subsequent and repeated doses of yates ant-rot.There could be a low level of 'infestation'in many trees waiting for a trigger.In the absence of the original enquirer giving more info. it isn't such a bad thing to speculate and share relevant experiences.
Time: 25th January 2012 9:40pm
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Peter says...
Yes, overall a good share of experiences on a daily (daleys) basis...
It feels a bit risky sometimes to speculate though, some just wait out there to get you, if you're wrong.
For Robert: Amanda summed it up well - and hopefully it was just salt stress. Just keep an eye on it and keep it less exposed to direct full sun while the plant adapts with being transplanted
Time: 26th January 2012 12:18am
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amanda says...
Hey Peter..I'm glad u said that - the first thing I always do with a sick plant (if in a pot) is get it out of direct sun (if summer) - stressed plants just don't need the extra stress of even more fert's and hot/direct sun?
I would be interested to see if this plant survives actually....(if it were something more robust maybe) do u think Peter?
I agree tho - sometimes it just a waiting game. It can be really hard to speculate on just a photo too..so many variables. I am not sure that people should expect definitive advice here, myself.
The forum has become a bit of a "problem solver" over the last cupla' years...I am not sure that was it's original intention?
I am very loathe to offer advice on mature trees, for eg, myself. I am not a professional by any means (and don't carry indemnity insurance! lol..)
Time: 26th January 2012 12:48am
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Brendan says...
Hi Robert, our garden guru here was asked a similar question as yours not long back, here's the Q & A's.
Q. Avocado tree lost leaves & was dying but recovered after a few heavy doses of copper oxychloride solution. Now new leaves are beginning to brown & burn at the tips, what could be the problem?
A. Apply Claybreaker to the soil, this is a liquid. 250mls to 4.5 litres of water apply three times seven days apart. This will displace any toxins.
(She then explained it was growing in sandy soil) So Tom replied:
Most likely salt injury, apply Gypsum four clenched handfuls per sq metre around the area, this will be required twice per year.
Time: 26th January 2012 11:40am
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Justin says...
Here are some more pictures.
So far I have treated with Bicarbonate of Soda and Manuka honey - until I can get the chance to get some Copper hydroxide. There has been a little improvement, but not major as you can see.
We also had a hailstorm on Christmas day - not sure if the splits were caused by the hailstones and this is an infection of those injuries, or whether the splits were caused by disease.
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Time: 28th January 2012 3:31pm
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amanda says...
Justin - did u take the pics b4 or after the bicarb applications?
(sorry - I know that sounds dumb - but just wanted to check..)
Also - would not consider pruning those branches off b4 the pathogen spreads?
Time: 29th January 2012 12:06am
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Peter says...
Hi Justin,
I think is looks more like a mechanical damage (and you mentioned the hailstorm)with then some fungi takeing advantage of that, but it seems very restricted to the area. So fungicide application what Brendan recommends would be good.
Overall your tree looks in good health.
Time: 29th January 2012 1:18am
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amanda says...
hey Peter - will the damaged areas just get re-infected though?
I was always under the impression that diseased, damaged and dead branches should always be pruned on any trees...? (not disagreeing with u guys - just curious :)
(pic 2 looks particularly nasty - will the tree be able to heal a wound like that..?)
Time: 29th January 2012 11:52am
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Justin says...
Thanks for the advice, all. My second lot of pics were taken after the bicarb and honey.
I considered pruning off the affected branches, but almost all branches are affected to a certain extent, and the trunk as well, so I'd have no tree left if I did that.
Time: 29th January 2012 1:11pm
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Bunya Paul says...
My Haas fruited heavily last season so this season has not. I have taken the opportunity to do some major pruning in this off year to fix the fact that I let the main lateral branches grow too low on the tree, meaning the fruit hangs to the ground. Pruning included sawing off some branches that were several inches in diameter. Straight after sawing I brushed the wounds with that black pruning paint but soon after it had dried I notices sap from the plant was getting through the paint. This wet sap was soon replaced by a white powdery looking substance that I had assumed was some sort of fungus - bringing me to this thread when Googling for what I should do (which was apt given I have bought all my Avo plants from Daleys. The white powdery stuff is on the big and small prunings all over the tree. After reading the above thread I came across the below youtube link which I am pretty sure explains my particular issue - worth others taking a look at. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgvD7tzorKM
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Time: 20th December 2015 8:44am
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Justin1 says...
Thanks, all. And thanks for the video, Bunya Paul - it seems to explain the origin of the white stuff. Here are some more pictures 4 years on - the wounds haven't healed over as I would have expected, but the tree itself doesn't seem to be affected (and is bearing well).
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Time: 22nd December 2015 10:59am
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Silent Bob says...
HI,
Does anyone know what is happening to my avocado tree and how should I treat it
Time: 12th December 2017 10:22pm
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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Bob
Where is the picture and or description of your ailing avocado tree?
Time: 13th December 2017 8:59pm
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Silent Bob says...
Hi , for some reason this pictures didn't upload with my post. I'm worried about my only tree. I've only had it for 5 months and it doesn't look too healthy. My local nursery suggest I treat it with Searles Root Rot. Any advice would be great. Thanks
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Time: 14th December 2017 10:14am
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Justin says...
Looks similar to what happened to mine (sunburn). Are the damaged bits facing the sun or is the damage all the way around? The stems are very sensitive to the sun - high UV-index days can do it, even when the temp isn't that hot. Mine recovered but were already quite big and the lesions were not around the whole branch. If the wounds totally encircle the trunk of your tree then it may cause ring-barking which is going to have a pretty poor outlook.
Time: 15th December 2017 11:00am
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Bryantree says...
I hope I’m not hijacking this thread. I just noticed this happening to my pit grown tree. This leaf was stuck to the trunk and underneath was this.
Time: 8th January 2018 1:39am
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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Bryan
Did you by any chance forgot to upload a picture of your pith grown avo tree for disease I.D.?
Happy Gardening :-)
Time: 8th January 2018 3:51pm
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Bryantree says...
Here are the photos again
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Time: 9th January 2018 5:41am
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Bryantree says...
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Time: 9th January 2018 5:42am
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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Bryan
Your avo tree might have caught P.Citricola infection. which is the most common fungal disease among avos (around 90%). Unlike the more sinister pathogen P. Cinnamomi where death is imminent if left untreated. The most common symptoms are: often there is sugary exudate (bleeding) with a distinct pocket of wet dead tissue below the damage bark. This white exudate often dries up to form a white crystalline deposit on the bark.
Moderately affected trees often appears quite healthy like yours and may persist this way for several years until the canker progresses to a stage where it may start killing the cambium tissues around the trunk accelerating the eventual demise of the tree.
I can see from the picture that there was a decapitated branch scar where the infection started. It might have been shielded by a leaf and didn't have the chance to properly dry up and heal and might have been unwittingly rewetted hence aggravating the infection.
Treatment of this disease starts with scraping of cankerous tissues to remove active cankers and painting the area with copper bordeaux. But this treatment has limited success among growers. The most preffered treatment among growers recently is the immediate treatment of Aliette systemic fungicide from Bayer, or neutralised (buffered) phosphorus is more likely to reduce potential infection than using copper bordeaux after tree surgery. Another effective treatment is the application of Ridomil Gold 480 SL by Syngenta. As always follow manufacturers recommendations and always protect yourself with appropriate PPE when handling chemicals.
Happy Gardening :-)
Time: 9th January 2018 10:18pm
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Connie0322 says...
Can anyone identify this problem and share helpful ideas? This is a small bacon avocado tree in a large planter. I live in East Texas so I'm not ready to put it in the ground until it's better prepared for our weather. It has developed black spots on the leaves that rub off with pressure. I took a leaf to Home Depot and was given a fungicide spray. The leaves are turning yellow after 3 applications.
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Time: 25th March 2018 6:39am
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Markmelb says...
If the spots rub off its likely dirt? Stop spraying and wash with soapy water then let it drip dry - is it trying to grow new leaves yet? Maybe remove flowers at their base? Cheers
Time: 26th March 2018 8:00am
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Kristyt3 says...
Can anyone help me with what this is..avacado tree..had same last year and I removed all the leaves..this year All new growth and it's back..ugh.. tree is potted about 3 ft tall
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Time: 20th April 2018 9:09am
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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Kristy3
Looks like salt burn to me due to the discoloration is mainly confined to the older leaf edges and tips. It may be caused by saline water and over fertilization without adequate watering. If you only water lightly it will exacerbate the problem by allowing the excess salt in the water and fertilizer to build up within the soil. Always water adequately before and after fert application to avoid this problem.
To lessen the salt build up you must flush it out by putting your potted plant under a hose watering slowly until the water leach out of the pot. At least deep water it once a month to flush out accumulated salt. Also withhold fert application for a while until the problem is corrected.
Happy gardening :-)
Time: 21st April 2018 4:28pm
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lisstef says...
I live in Goa, India. There is a very old avo growing that gives abundant fruit each year. It's thought to be of Guatamalan origin giving small, oval fruit with small round pits. The skin turns a delicate purple when the fruit is ripe, is easy to peel and deliciously oily to eat. It has started getting hard nodules in the flesh that can't be seen in the skin. They have to be picked out before eating because they're like very small, hard stones.
Any idea what they are and what's happening to the tree to cause it?
Time: 7th August 2018 8:37pm
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David01 says...
Hi lisstef,
I found the article below may help to explain your Avocado issue. Cheers
http://www.avocadosource.com/CAS_Yearbooks/CAS_65_1981/CAS_1981_PG_125-132.pdf
Time: 8th August 2018 10:39am
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Kristyt3 says...
Thanks a lot! It worked.. tree is growing like crazy now in the pot. Should I take it out and plant it in the ground at some point?
Time: 9th August 2018 1:44am
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Fruitylicious1 says...
Hi Kristy
It depends upon your location. If there is no foreseeable danger of frost for the remainder of the winter season you can plant in the ground anytime. But be sure to have adequate drainage with your selected planting site to avoid waterlogging problems later on. Avo hates wet feet. Best location is on raised garden bed or on a mound for improved drainage.
Happy gardening :-)
Time: 9th August 2018 7:52pm
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Gordy says...
Hi I have a mature and large avocado tree see pictures that is located in my back yard and in the northern beaches in Sydney. The leaves are going brown and there is these white markings that have appeared which look like some kind of fungus can anyone help me identify and now how I should treat?
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Time: 27th August 2018 10:51pm
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Markmelb says...
Bit of salt burn on leaves but is how they look before springs new flush - you prob fed too much and is showing it.
Time: 28th August 2018 5:57pm
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Gordy says...
is there anything I can do to help assist the tree?
Time: 21st September 2018 12:44pm
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SS says...
My avocado tree 2 to 3 years old has some black powdery substance behind the leaves and the front of the leaf is turning brown. Please help me understand what this disease is and the solution for it.
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Time: 23rd October 2018 2:48am
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David01 says...
Hi SS,
It looks like your Avocado has Avocado Bud mites or spider mites which grows mainly underneath of the leaves. They live up to 20 days and lays many thousand eggs. Using a sponge and tap water to wipe down both sides of each leaf. Repeat this process once a week for a few weeks. Cheers.
Time: 24th October 2018 6:35pm
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Original Post was last edited: 25th October 2018 8:41am
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Shangiuf says...
Hi,
Hope everyone is well, if anyone can help me with my avo tree, its showing signs of root rot. One of the stems looks healthy, also inside the centre of the branches they are still an enriched green, so i'm hoping we can save them.
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Time: 21st January 2019 11:47am
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Original Post was last edited: 21st January 2019 11:48am
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Dianella, Perth, W.A
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DaniR says...
Hi there, first time here for me. Hope someone can help. I cant quite identify the disease and I am no specialist. Someone said canker and another root rot....I really don't want to lose my tree. It is around 40yo. I also noticed the same on the Olive tree. Plus I discovered white mould on the top of the soil in a different part of the garden. Anyway....I am having a panic attack here :(
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Time: 21st January 2019 7:49pm
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Original Post was last edited: 23rd January 2019 12:26am
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Chloe2019 says...
Hi Justin, I believe my tree has what yours did - have attached a picture. Can you please tell me the measurements of your bicarbonate soda / manuka mixture is please?
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Time: 31st January 2019 6:54am
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About the Author Chloe2019
New Zealand
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bede says...
Hi there,
I have a young avocado tree grown from the seed/stone in NZ.
It has recently developed a split on the trunk and has the white powdery substance around the split.
Can any one help in identifying the disease ?
Cheers
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Time: 24th March 2019 1:24pm
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About the Author bede
Wellington
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Avos says...
Good Morning
I live in Baja Mexico and my avo trees have been quickly infected with this white squiggling lines on the leafs. Could you please help me identify what this is and how to treat
Thank
Sandra
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Time: 17th September 2019 12:21am
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Baja mexico
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Julie says...
Looks like a bad case of leaf miner. Spray with pest oil, but it is tricky getting underneath the leaves.
Time: 17th September 2019 7:38pm
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Roleystone WA
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Dez555 says...
I have two giant avocado trees, they must be decades old and they produce a lot of fruit. So far so good. However the smaller one (in a separate garden bed) has developed that crystalline substance mentioned herein. I found a broke beach with some of the deposit and lifted up the surrounding bark (see pictures). Both avocados are sitting in jungle mulch, I have a bore and they get watered on the same days as the rest of the garden. What is the problem, do you think?
If it’s fungus, what is the best treatment and would have to apply it to the whole tree (leaves etc)?
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Time: 14th January 2020 5:34pm
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Floreat
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rmt05 says...
I'm trying to revive this fuerte Avo tree that the previous owner grew in a container. I get new (sporadic) growth but then it just dies off. very little foliage as you can see. Branches dont appear healthy to me either. ANy ideas on where to start with treatment or is this a lost cause?
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Time: 5th April 2022 8:07am
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San Diego 9212 CA United States
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jakfruit etiquette says...
It looks to be in a very sunny position ? Young Avocado trees don't like full sun and are often planted out with shade cloth covers for the first few years in orchards.
I would try that and also stimulate the soil biology with liquid kelp and compost based fertiliser. Cant tell if there are root rot issues. Looks to be sunburn on the scarred branches.
Time: 6th April 2022 7:38am
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About the Author jakfruit etiquette
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