Mango Tree Disease (forum)

Bruce Ramsay starts with ...
I have an large Kensington Pride mango tree, approx. 12metre. In the just competed season I have had a reasonable crop of fruit however ther appears to be a disease causing the leaves to drop and the tips of new branches to die back. When pruned there is a brown discolouration in the affected branches. Q1:- If I prune back to good wood and tree bandage where cut, is there a chance that I can contain this rot? Q2:- Does anyone know what the problem its and cure?

Time: 31st January 2008 2:42pm

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About the Author Bruce Ramsay
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Kath says...
It sounds like anthracnose or black spot, this diseases in the mangos will be a real problem this year because of all the wet weather. Head down to your local agricultural store to see if they can recommend a treatment for you. As we are not licensed to sell chemicals I am afraid I am not allowed to recommend a solution for you.

Time: 15th February 2008 10:16am

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About the Author Kath
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John says...
I have the exact same problem, the leaves turn brown and die off with the branch rotting with what seems to be the bark getting stripped down to teh core. I've been cutting off branches as soon as it appears but does not seem to stop the disease.

Kath, do you know of a good agricultural store in sydney?? flowerpower and bunnings are useless as they know nothing about this sort of stuff.

Time: 15th March 2008 9:56am

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Maryanne says...
i work @ bunnings Ashfield.
not everyone is useless!! im a student horticulturist -
you can use mancozeb to treat anthracnose. the trick is to spray more than once.
i recomend spraying every 10 days for 6 treatments. good luck.

Time: 8th October 2008 10:38pm

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Maryanne says...
PS- if the bark is getting stripped away and you cant see it on the floor it might be a bark eating beatle/borer in which case you would use baythroid.




Time: 8th October 2008 10:39pm

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Wayne says...
Has anybody worked out how to spray a 12m high tree and how much Mangozeb it's going to take to do it 6 times. My Mango tree also has Anthracnose but I have the chainsaw ready to make it within reach.

Time: 10th October 2008 5:59am

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Steven says...
A dis-ease in any living thing is just that...dis-ease. Mangoes are generally quite hardy. BUT growing them in a location where they will be at-ease is very important. Warm climate, Northern aspect, good drainage etc etc. Even then, such problems will arise...my tree has signs of leaf damage(dry,brown,crispy burnt look) in areas...other parts of the tree are lush and full of growth! This is ones lot growing (sub)/tropical fruit down South.

Time: 16th October 2008 10:05pm

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Jeff says...
Hi, have problem with my mango tree. The leaves are going brown and dry at the ends and then continues to die until they fall off. Also have lots of dead branches in the tree. Got heaps of fruit off it but looks very sick (see photos). Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Picture: 2

Time: 4th December 2008 3:06pm

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About the Author Jeff3
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Vicki says...
Jeff, we have a couple of hundred KP's planted in 4 different patches, with 4 different soil types. One patch look just the same as your pictures. We have soil and leaf analysis done and no one can tell us what we are doing wrong, did you find out how to fix yours.

Time: 2nd August 2009 10:18am

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki and Jeff - I hope your problem is not the same as mine - what kind of water are u irrigating with? I have same problem on mangoes n a few others. I recently had the (scheme) water tested and it's full of chloride. There is quite a bit of sodium (thus: salt) in it too.

These two cause tip burn on leaves that progresses to the margins and eventually death n drop of the leaves. It starts on the oldest leaves and progresses to young ones eventually if bad enough.

Rains will flush the soil and gypsum helps. It's worth getting your water checked (ours above WHO recommendations on a few things - I have complained to water corp - they "looking into it")

Time: 2nd August 2009 10:33am

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amanda says...
PS Vicki - your water is same as mine now..goes right past my house on NWC Hwy!
My soil test showed chloride levels that I am waiting for an agronomist to explain - who did your soil test?

(Jeff - your tree looks burnt on one side? have u had some bad winds? have you tried leaving the hose trickling on it overnight once or twice a week for a few weeks?)

Time: 2nd August 2009 10:40am

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Vicki says...
Amanda, we have our own bore and aren't on scheme water, salt was the first thing we looked into, there is practically no salt in the water. Landmark did the soil and leaf testing. And it showed nothing. We even took the reading up to Carnarvon, to get a mango grower friend have a look, he just wished his soil was as good as ours. At first we thought it was chemical burn, but no body is spraying around us. Not getting enough water is the only thing we can think off, but as you know we have had heaps of rain recently.

Time: 2nd August 2009 10:51am

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - that's really interesting! As we are so close - we may b having the same problem - are u able to post a photo? I'd love to b able to compare - and I have seen this on someone elses tree in Grenough too.

You are so lucky to have good bore water! Landmark referred me to an agronomist in Perth (who specialises in Horticulture) for interpretation of the results (CSBP test) I am waiting for his input. I am a novice at these - but from what I can gather - what is in the soil is not necessarily what is "available" to the plant - but if your leaf test ok - then that really only leaves mechanical damage (wind)/water stress type issues I would have thought?

Are u close to ocean at all?

My studies on this have turned up deficiencies of magnesium or potassium in the main, with calcium a second option.

I have been giving my 3 KP's a good soaking as I still don't think they are getting enuf' water. They used to flood irrigate in Carnarvon! Don't know if they still do (have an ex-mangoe grower friend from there too!)

Stay in touch won't u - we may be able to get to the bottom of it - and it would b helpful for others. :)



Time: 2nd August 2009 11:09am

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Vicki says...
Will take some photo's later today. We have also thought wind, they only get the southerly, today is blowing easterly, and the trees that get hammered with the easterly aren't affected. Last summer we gave them plenty of water and they improved, but with winter rains, stopped watering, put them on for about 4 hours yesterday. And we are right in town, so not getting ocean winds or salt, we fertilise with NPK blue and Urea, we alternate, our friend in Cvon also gave us a bag of what he uses there, but not sure what that is made up off. We also spray for anthracnose, at the moment we do this every 3 weeks. Our trees are from 10 - 12 years old. It has really only been this bad since we went into drought, what would that be the last 5/6 years. None of the other trees are affected like this. The chain saw will be sharpened up if they don't start improving. It is good talking to some one close by, who understands the wind, water and soil of this area. When I have phone ag dept ususally get told to phone Kununurra who's soil, wind and water probs are nothing like here. There was a great guy in Cvon but he retired and only does consult work now, but what he didn't know wasn't worth knowing

Time: 2nd August 2009 12:12pm

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amanda says...
Hi again Vicki - what was the soil salt level on your results? (mine "Intermediate") Did u fertilise before you turned retic off? When did u fert last? Have u put anything else on them at all? Are the affected trees in any way different as to slope, at end of retic line, front-line sun/wind?

I'm thinking of a temporary fertiliser "salts" (not NaCl) build up combined with inadequate water that may have caused a reverse-osmosis (ie: water coming out of the plant due to high salts in soil and low salts in plants)

I tend to fert in winter mainly cos it's cool for me :) and the rain is helpful for when i renovate the mulch. I have been wondering tho' about something Speedy mentioned about watering thru' the rain (initially) as salt gets washed back into the root zone (by the rain) causing this kind of damage. The idea is to flush it away into the subsoil. (Perhaps my trees are getting a double-whammy!?)

When I say "salt" - this can also be fertiliser salts.

Perhaps with the extra dry conditions it would be preferable to fert little and often, and water well.

I will ask agronomist too (Jeff - I have posted your photo to him too)
Maybe we could ask Speedy too.

Time: 2nd August 2009 3:50pm

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Vicki says...
Me again, ok have done some pics, the salt content in the soil was minimal, we don't over fertilise, and when we do we don't give them heaps at once, we gradually do it. And we look at the trees to see whether we think they need fertilising, ie the colour of the tree, pale green rather than dark green. And as for a pattern there is not one, there can be a crap tree and next to it can be 4 good ones and other way round. 20 feet away is a different patch and they are beautiful looking trees. We had previously mulched the trees, it is just about disolved at the moment.
Vicki
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Time: 2nd August 2009 5:04pm

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - well that kind of blows my theory!! :) I will send your pic down to Aaron Chapman as well. There must be an answer to all of this!?

Time: 2nd August 2009 7:27pm

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Vicki says...
Aaron was the agronomist that came and visited us, he actually told us it was salt, but there was little salt (around 400 per million grains) in the water, and then why are they the only ones suffering if you look 20 ft away the trees are going mad,the pic taken is if you look to the right are the sick trees and to the left are as healthy as any thing, same water same fertiliser. So has us stumped
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Time: 2nd August 2009 8:18pm

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amanda says...
Yea - see what u mean Vicki! I honestly don't know - my only suggestions are to check/measure the output of the drippers/sprayers (use bucket or such) to make certain they (sick ones) are getting the same amount of water compared to the others.

I have divined the water running under our block and it's quite obvious where it is and isn't (easy to do yourself) I do wonder tho' if the ground water is suffering with this drought - it can make all the difference to the survival of some trees.

It's a long shot but maybe the guys on the right are 'missing out' due to levels dropping. I know there has been problems with this in Northampton and my area too.

You may want to try a slow trickle on one sick tree - leave overnight a cupla times a week for a few weeks and see what happens to new growth and the presently un-burnt growth. It could b a worthwhile experiment.



Time: 2nd August 2009 8:43pm

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amanda says...
Also Vicki - what kind of drippers/sprayers are u using? are they pressure-compensated one's?

Time: 2nd August 2009 8:48pm

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - me again! ... I have done some more googling but keep turning up the same stuff (apart from salinity)...magnesium or potassium deficiency.... also of interest is that excess nitrogen is antagonistic to potassium uptake - giving similar symptoms. It might pay to drop the Urea from the sick ones for awhile?

This is something I have copied out of one site:

Irrigation management and drainage are important factors in minimising salt build-up in the root zone. Salting of orchards in inland irrigation areas can occur when the salt-laden groundwater table rises towards the tree roots. Another cause is the concentration of salt into the

Time: 3rd August 2009 12:30am

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I popped into ThinkWater in Gero 2day to ask about bore water...the conversion table converts 400 grains/gallon to nearly 7,000 mg/L (or ppm)total dissolved solids. To compare with Gero town water at 1,000 mg/L. The upper limit for humans is 1,100 and horses (for eg) 5,500. Unfortunately plants don't have kidneys so accumulate salts in the bark and leaves.

It may be really worthwhile getting a water testing kit ($66) from them and finding out what exactly is in your bore water (as 400 grains is equivalent to 20% seawater!)

I realise that some trees ok - but if the drippers/sprayers are not working properly etc then this could make all the difference..also if soil has become water repellant under the sick one's etc.

I hope this is of some use..I can't think what else it could be? Did u get the actual sick leaves tested?

Time: 3rd August 2009 6:43pm

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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I hope u r still out there? See above - but also I found this amazing document - it's a bit heavy in some parts but there is a few gems of info in there (see section 4) Mangoes are salt sensitive like citrus (and almost all fruit trees) - so the leaf anlaysis should translate.

http://www.fao.org/docrep/003/t0234e/T0234E03.htm

Time: 6th August 2009 10:16am

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John says...
I have a mango tree that is affected by a black fungus. I have tried many things both so far nothing has worked. The leaves get big black spots and the fruit also get black spots and drop off. This year I am trying eco oil. We will see.

Time: 8th August 2009 3:46pm

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amanda says...
Hi John - see beginning of this topic. Eco oil not for fungus - use bordeaux/kocide.

Time: 9th August 2009 9:33am

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amanda says...
Hi Jeff n Vicki...Mum reminded me 2day about her mangoe tree outside their bathroom - they had the shower water diverted to the plant permanently..It grew at an amazing rate (in high wind in Carnarvon)...and fruited really well. (was an R2E2).
Grey water is pretty low quality - so maybe our problems are just a lack of water? I am going to up the ante on mine this summer..will post pics one day!

Time: 9th August 2009 6:06pm

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nike64 says...
I have a mango tree which is 1/2 a year old and it looks bad. What disease does it have and what is a solution?

P.S. I originally thought it was a iron deficiency

P.P.S. Has it got something to do with my location, season etc.

P.P.P.S. All the new leaves/ shoots have turned black at the tip!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

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Time: 14th August 2009 7:21pm

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nike64 says...
It is a Kensington pride and I bought it Laverton Market.

Time: 14th August 2009 7:25pm

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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi nike64,

I think the cold weather affects your mango tree. Spring is just around the corner so hopefully your tree will grow back with new shoots coming out.

If I was you I would give it plenty of dynamic lifter in mid Spring to make it grow stronger before the next winter comes.

All the best.

Time: 14th August 2009 7:58pm

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amanda says...
Hi nike64 - your tree looks nitrogen deficient.... try giving it a bit of manure or fertiliser - not too much as the weather is too cold for any real growth yet and water well - clear the weeds around the tree a bit wider than you have now. If u haven't added any nitrogen source at planting then that woodchip may be causing nitrogen deficiency.

Time: 15th August 2009 9:17am

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nike64 says...
O.K. I got rid of the mulch and got rid of more weeds. My dad thought I should use grass clippings instead of the wood and I discovered some Thrive Soluble Plant Food with 19.31 percent Nitrogen. Also we have some compost. Would all this be ok?

(I know this is off topic but Im also going to grow another tree from seed and I need a germination method cause last year it failed!)

Time: 15th August 2009 12:20pm

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nike64 says...
Heres some close-ups of the leaves!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 15th August 2009 1:16pm

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John says...
I went to a nursery but I could not find any bordeaux/kocide but I found a product called Mancozeb.It seems to say all the right things on the label. Is it ok? I will try it for the comming season but I am concerned the tree may already be too diseased. If it doesnt work perhaps next year I could heavily prune the tree to get rid of most of the disease and ensure I spray all new foliage.

Time: 16th August 2009 1:13pm

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Julie says...
John,it depends if you are trying to grow organically. If so, this would be a no-no. Mancozeb is a commonly used fungicide for this purpose.

Mangoes are notorious for anthracnose, which is what your symptoms sound like, though I think there some more resistant varieties around.

Anthracnose can be caused by wet conditions around flowering and fruit set. You will have to spray every four weeks till harvest.

Time: 16th August 2009 3:22pm

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John says...
What about when the tree gets fruit. Can I continue to spray the tree with Mancozeb?

Time: 17th August 2009 12:19pm

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Julie says...
'Till harvest' means up to when you pick the fruit, so yes, I guess so. From 'What Garden Pest or Disease is That?':

'The fungus lives in dead parts of the plant, and spores are spread from these areas to leaves, fruit and flowers by water splash.

Prune off all dead plant parts. Spray with Mancozeb at the rate of 2g per litre every week while the blossoms are on the tree, then every four weeks until harvest. If weather is dry when the plant blossoms, fewer sprays may be required'.



Time: 17th August 2009 6:17pm

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amanda says...
Most mangoes are actually dipped in anti-anthracnose stuff after picking and b4 going to market...

Time: 17th August 2009 9:30pm

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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi Amanda,

Do you know how to get rid of the anti-anthracnose stuff before eating those mangoes?

Time: 17th August 2009 9:46pm

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amanda says...
Hi Jujube!...u don't eat the skin so all 'ok' - give them a mild soapy water wash n rinse if u really want to get rid of it first - I do this with any fruit I buy that we eat with the skin on.

Time: 17th August 2009 9:58pm

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JUJUBE FOR SALE IN MELBOURNE says...
Hi Amanda,

Many thanks for your advice, I am very much appreciated. I will do that before I eat fruit.

Time: 17th August 2009 10:10pm

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Paul says...
Hi,

I have a problem with a mango tree that is few years old. Currently in a pot, looking to put into the ground very soon if possible. The stem looks ok, although it doesn't sit very firmly in the pot. We've had a fair bit of wind and rain in the last few weeks, but this problem has been around for a month or so now.

All the leaves seem to be affected, turning brown/black and dying... there are some black marks on the branches too.

I've been looking at the photos posted here so far, but none seem to quite match what i'm seeing.

Is this anthracnose? Should I be removing all the leaves and cutting back the branches? (there may not be much left!!)

thanks very much,
Paul


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Time: 18th August 2009 4:56pm

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amanda says...
Hi Paul...if it were my tree I would bin it and the soil it's in...and then plant a new, healthy tree straight into the ground. It will take a lot of effort to make the one above into a healthy tree again (and a lot of chemicals too)
It's an advanced fungal infection (probly due to waterlogging - did u have a dish under the pot?) and the soil may transmit the disease to your garden too. But - lets see what others think..? :)

Time: 18th August 2009 5:21pm

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Paul says...
I double-checked, it does *not* have a dish under it (I previously said it did, i've corrected this post).

Such heartbreak, i've been watching this tree grow *very* slowly for over a year now... the place I got it from has closed down... where would I get another mango tree in Perth?


Time: 18th August 2009 7:28pm

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About the Author Paul21
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Cuong says...
Hi Paul,

Wandilla on 811 Welshpool Rd Wattle Grove

or

Tassie1trees on 1072 Great Northern Hwy Baskerville

both have a good range, what mango variety are you after?

Time: 18th August 2009 8:52pm

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About the Author Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
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Paul says...
Hi Cuong,

The ideal mango variety for me, is one that will give me mangos and won't die!

I'm new at this, so ideally I'd like to get *any* success.

Would it be ok to post up pictures of my other fruit trees, and see what you guys think? eg, I have a custard apple that won't grow up.

cheers
Paul


Time: 18th August 2009 9:50pm

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Cuong says...
Paul,

here is a Bowen/Kensington Pride Mango I bought last week at Tassie1trees for $35 (Wandilla has the as well $37.95)

KP is a very nice variety that is commercially grown throughout Australia

the trees that tass1 are very healthy


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Picture: 1

Time: 19th August 2009 12:25am

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About the Author Cuong
Wilson, Western Australia
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Vicki says...
Hi Amanda,
My computer crashed and have just got it back, have just gone thru all old posts. We are thinking the sad trees must be water deprived, although these trees got more water than others, it mustn't been getting enough. And because they were not the healthiest, when the winter diseases came in they copped the lot. Hubby has been spraying them for anthracnose and giving them a bit more than the other trees, still looking a bit sadder than the others. Will see how they go when the weather improves.
Vicki

Time: 27th August 2009 11:19am

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About the Author Vicki4
Northampton
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amanda says...
No prob's Vicki - wondered where u got to!? In your pic above it looks like grass clippings around the tree?

Also - did u dig around the plants to check soil not water repellant?

It's bloody frustrating isn't it!? I am having trouble getting my mangoes up n running too...something just not right here...and yet other fruit trees doing really well. Goodluck hey...if u crack the problem let me know please!! :)

Time: 27th August 2009 10:30pm

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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Vicki says...
Hello again, not grass at bottom of the trees but barley mulch. Soil around trees is nice and damp, have dug down fair way and moisture getting there. A couple of years ago we were having water probs (not much there) but put a new bore down and now have plenty, but when the worry was there we cut back on the watering, which may have caused trees to go back wards. But the past couple of years they have been getting the water, although hubby says they still need more, but still only that patch of about 75 trees. All other trees looking good, a little bit of anthracnose but it is to be expected with the wind and cold. But we will wait until spring see how they go. We get a magazine from the Mango Assoc, there was an article about another disease which is similar but they didn't say what to use on it. Will check out there web site and see if any thing on it.
vicki

Time: 28th August 2009 2:00am

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About the Author Vicki4
Northampton
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amanda says...
Hey Vicki - the guys at CRT (Great Northern Rural) were telling me that unless the bore water under 130 grains - then u can get a build up of salts over a period of time - maybe worth filing away for next years break-of-season... and "water thru" the first rains on a few trees to see if it makes a difference. I am going to try this next year for my trees (it's gonna be hard tho'... it goes against everything we are told to do in order to conserve water...!?)

One scientific source I read also talked about salt being stored in the bark and tissues of the trees...all ok until tree water stressed - then tree suddenly 'burns'. Trees will take up sodium in excess if there is low potassium also. I also read info on lack of nitrogen aggravating sodium uptake.

This may not be your problem - but it's interesting info I guess. Your trees look really healthy apart from the burning - but I can also add that I have had problems with anthracnose all thru my grevillias over the last 2 yrs...(I don't treat it as they don't seem bothered by it as yet) According to Kerry at Yetna - it's been a common problem lately.

Time: 28th August 2009 6:39pm

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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Vicki says...
I mentioned the book that we get thru Mango assos, got new one on Friday and they have an article on exactly what our trees are looking like. It is called Bacterial necrosis. There was article on it in a previous magazine but didn't say what the cure was, this one trials were done in WA just north of Perth (Gin Gin?). About to do some googling. Will let you know.
Vicki

Time: 29th August 2009 10:50am

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About the Author Vicki4
Northampton
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amanda says...
That's great Vicki! Thanks heaps - I will google too.... haven't read about that b4 (not in association with mangoes anyway) The Ag dept will probably be very keen to look at samples of your leaves for free if u send some down to Perth:

Pest and Disease Information Service:
1800 084 881

They were very thorough with my passionfruit virus specimens - even sent them off the Curtin Uni for anlaysis.



Time: 29th August 2009 11:07am

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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amanda says...
Hi Vicki - I have started a new topic "Mangoe bacterial necrosis" with some links...so it's easy to find again in future.. :)

Time: 30th August 2009 12:38pm

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Geraldton. WA
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Vicki says...
Have gone on to this page and have replied. Going to scan an article and post it on. L.ooks like I am not the only one with this
Vicki

Time: 31st August 2009 11:10am

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About the Author Vicki4
Northampton
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amanda says...
This is a pic of my tree - it's quite different - I am happy that this is salt burn on mine - the growing tips are not showing any signs of disease either...phew!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 31st August 2009 5:03pm

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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Michael says...
Hi All,
I live in suburbian Sydney and all the mango trees are in full bloom right now . Last year my tree only produce 3 mangoes from such a large tree. I did remember is was a very wet summer last year. To all the mango expert out there is there anything we can do to get higher mango yields ? ie like adding certain trace elements to the water,fertilise at certain times or maybe just increase the water supply .Please help ?

Time: 31st August 2009 10:44pm

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Ellen says...
Michael,

last year I got plenty of mangoes too, but due to that last hail storm that we've got, it destroyed 4/5 of my fruits lot.

Time: 1st September 2009 12:49am

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nike64 says...
I just bought another kensington at Laverton Market but this one is way more mature. Here are some pics:
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3
Picture: 4
Picture: 5

Time: 6th September 2009 2:35pm

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About the Author Nick T
Altona, VIC
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John says...
It is only early spring and my mango tree is already producing flowers. I remember reading somewhere it may be a good idea to break them off and they will grow again later in the season. Anyone want to comment.

Time: 9th September 2009 12:36pm

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About the Author John I
Castle Hill NSW
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Wayne says...
I wouldn't worry about them John, all mango trees are early this year, we already have fruit on the market from the NT.
The tree will reject them if things aren't right. I don't know where Castle Hill is but northern NSW should harvest around February I think. Take about three months off that and that's when you tree should be flowering.

Time: 9th September 2009 5:48pm

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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John says...
Castle Hill is about 40 mins drive north west of CBD Sydney.

Time: 10th September 2009 12:10pm

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About the Author John I
Castle Hill NSW
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Michael says...
Hi John,
I'm about 25 minutes from where you are and my mangoe trees are also in full bloom. Even the ones in pots are starting to bloom as well.It seems earlier than usual but I'm just leaving it and hoping for the best,
Pictures - Click to enlarge
View Image
Picture: 1 View Image
Picture: 2 View Image
Picture: 3

Time: 10th September 2009 8:56pm

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Wakeley
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Michael says...
My mango trees blooming
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 10th September 2009 9:06pm

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About the Author Michael
Wakeley
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Wayne says...
And they look bloomin good Michael, no sign of any problems so you get to eat mangoes by the look of it

Time: 11th September 2009 7:02am

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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John says...
I cant believe how healthy all the leaves look. Not even one hint of fungus.

Time: 11th September 2009 6:36pm

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About the Author John I
Castle Hill NSW
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John I. says...
Well I have sprayed Mancozeb once a week for 6 weeks. I will now move to once a month until harvest. Its starting to look promising. Of course some of the damaged branches and leaves are still there but there is a lot of new growth and flowers are really coming out now. There has not been a lot of rain so the spray has been very effective. I will keep you posted from time to time.

Time: 19th September 2009 3:00pm

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Castle Hill NSW
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nike64 says...
My big mango tree is flowering and the small one has 2 lots of new shoots

Time: 10th October 2009 8:26pm

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About the Author Nick T
Altona, VIC
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Michael says...
I'm not sure if this would work but for every mango branch with tiny fruits on it I only leave 5 fruits at the most. I figured that if there are less fruits on the branch then the remaining ones will have a better chance to grow bigger and stronger.Last year I have so many tiny mangoes on each branch and they all grew to around a plum size and just drop off. Only a few survived into full mango sizes.


Time: 14th October 2009 12:58pm

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About the Author Michael
Wakeley
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nike64 says...
Heres spring pics of my mango trees
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3
Picture: 4
Picture: 5
Picture: 6

Time: 16th October 2009 7:58pm

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About the Author Nick T
Altona, VIC
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nike64 says...
Do flies pollinate mango trees

Time: 16th October 2009 7:59pm

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Altona, VIC
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Wayne says...
"Do flies pollinate mango trees"

Yes, I don't have bees here so they do a good job

Time: 16th October 2009 8:44pm

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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Kevin says...
Hey guys,

I recently bought a Rosigold mango tree from a nursery in Orlando. It is about a meter tall and a year and a half old according to the nursery. I noticed it has some black spots on some of the leaves and stem. I was wondering if you could tell me if you think they are indicative of some kind of fungus/disease/pest. I uploaded some pictures to a website to save you time downloading them. You can click on them to see them in high resolution.

The tree is currently located in Tampa.

website: http://kevinsmangotree.blogspot.com/

Thanks so much for your help!!!!

Time: 24th October 2009 4:12am

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About the Author Kevin5
Tampa, FL
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Brendan says...
Hi Kevin,
Being in a pot it's hard to say, but my guess is anthracnose. Without spraying (?), I'd apply some gypsum to the pot and water it in. If you can get liquid gypsum, even better.

Maybe a good time to re-pot it, making sure you remove ALL the old potting mix. Use a premium potting mix and a pot 1/3 larger.

Time: 24th October 2009 7:40am

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About the Author Brendan
Mackay, Q
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Claudine says...
Hiya, i have a mango tree i bought in k-mart nursery in Karratha W.A. 2004,it didnt have a tag telling me the type, so im unsure.it was around 50cm tall,when i bought it.it was just thin and bendy for a long time and reaching for the sun,i moved back to perth in 2006 and cut the trunk in half, hoping for the best,and this made it branch finally! and with water only really,i have just started to give it a bit more 'love'in the last year, with a bit of liquid trive.it has been going really well since, still in a pot, but now is browning on the edges of the leaves and has started to get dark purple/black branches,starting to flower,but dont think they are looking too good and wont stay on for long. it has never given me fruit and as i LOVE MANGO it would be fantastic to actually grow my own! Please help, it is my pride and joy, id hate for it to die.

Time: 1st November 2009 1:14pm

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About the Author Claudine
Australia
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Wayne says...
Hello Claudine, I would say that 99.999% it is root bound in the pot, it needs to be planted out.

Time: 1st November 2009 5:56pm

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Mackay QLD
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Claudine says...
thanks for the reply wayne! im not too sure that that is the problem as i did actually re pot it about 6months ago and the root system was actually not too big, it still had plenty of room in the pot it was in previously too,and this one is much larger...ill add some pictures, maybe that might give you a better idea. the pictures of the leaves that are on 'Pauls' post are acctually similar and ive just discovered little white bugs with lots of little hairy legs around the new growth, so maybe it needs a spray of some sort??? might be a few things wrong??
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3
Picture: 4
Picture: 5

Time: 1st November 2009 9:11pm

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About the Author Claudine
Australia
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Wayne says...
Well, there you go Claudine, I was wrong. Pic 2 suggests the tree is wanting fertiliser, I'm now using Terra Foska TE. The rest of the pics suggest that the tree is suffering badly with Anthracnose, a common Mango tree problem. Because the tree is flowering spray with Mancozeb and once the flowering has ceased and the fruit sets add copper oxichloride to the mix, spray once a week using a wetting agent. I have resorted to using an un-scented liquid soap because I can't get a wetting agent in small quantities here.

Perhaps spread a little dolomite around under the tree as well. The little white bugs are aphids, you can get a spray at the nursery or hardware store to kill them.
Cheers

Time: 2nd November 2009 7:33am

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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Claudine says...
Thankyou very much Wayne! ill get onto all those things today and heres hoping my tree gets better!let you know how i go with it! cheers!

Time: 2nd November 2009 11:17am

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About the Author Claudine
Singleton W.A
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Jeff says...
Hi Vicki/Amanda,

I still havent found out what causes the issue with the mango tree. I ended up giving it a huge trim with chainsaw and upped the water to it but no real results. The tree was ravaged from cyclone George a few years ago on the one side, it never flowered/fruited after that(only on that side, rest of tree was fine). Have since moved house and inherited 2 mango trees that are significantly smaller than the original one and you guessed it....both have the same symptoms as the first. They are only a couple of years old so that maybe sinks the buildup of salt etc theory. I water each afternoon with sprinkler and then by hand but leaves are still dying from the tip upwards.

Time: 3rd November 2009 1:29pm

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About the Author Jeff3
Port Hedland
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Wayne says...
Read this Jeff
"Q - we have a mango tree with yellow spots and dead or dying leaves the tree is roughly 15yrs old and 4 metres high ---A - The description fits Sour Sap usually caused by a Potash deficiency in the soil. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous. TERRAFOSKA TE or Crop king 77. one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy every two months"

Does that help,

Time: 3rd November 2009 2:13pm

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Mackay QLD
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Claudine says...
Hi wayne! i have sprayed mancozeb on my tree all over the trunk, and tops side of the leaves till they were dripping...wasnt sure if i have to do the underside of the leave too??? and how long till i spray them with that again? should i see results soon?

Time: 3rd November 2009 7:27pm

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Singleton W.A
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Wayne says...
Spray all over the leaves once a week Claudine, if I have it right you shoild notice an improvement in two weeks or there abouts.

Time: 3rd November 2009 9:16pm

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Mackay QLD
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Claudine says...
great thanks!

Time: 3rd November 2009 10:53pm

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Singleton W.A
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Jeff says...
Thanks Wayne...will give it a go and let you know if it cures the problem.

Time: 4th November 2009 12:16pm

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About the Author Jeff3
Port Hedland
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff, a horticulturalist had a look at mine and said salt straight away. He also said that mangoes (and macadamias) are highly salt sensitive. He said it is being seen increasingly up the WA coast and is likely due to the lower rainfall etc etc.

You should get your water tested - I was shocked to see how bad our scheme water was for sodium and chloride - severe.

What you can do is give them a liberal dose of gypsum and then give them a heap of water to flush out the sodium. This needs to be done more often in dry periods. Try to practice deep long soakings INfrequently rather than lots of smaller waterings. The long soaks push the salt out past the root zone and flush better.

Feed your tree little and often as this helps to displace the sodium from the soil. Choose low salt fertilisers. Liquid feed such as Powerfeed is good for this.

PS - added a pic of my mangoe with new growth (fingers crossed!?) and my macadamia.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 7th November 2009 10:34am

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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Claudine says...
HI THERE WAYNE,

I HAVE GIVEN MY MANGO TREE ANOTHER SPRAY ALL OVER WITH THE MANCOZEB PLUS, AND SPREAD SOME OF THE LIME AROUND THE BASE AS YOU SAID, I COULDNT FIND ANY OF THE FERTILIZER YOU SUGGESTED...THE TERRAFOSKA T.E I HAVE FOUND A STONE FRUIT GRANUALS WITH A WETTING AGENT IN IT IN MY SHED THAT I MUST HAVE BOUGHT ALONG THE WAY AND HAVE PUT SOME AROUND THE BASE ALSO....WATERED IT IN WELL.
HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD BE LOOKING A BIT BETTER ASAP!
ANOTHER QUESTION FOR YOU :)
SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?

Time: 7th November 2009 7:01pm

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About the Author Claudine
Singleton W.A.
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Wayne says...
"SHOULD I BE REMOVING ANY OF THE DAMAGED LEAVES?"

Nope, leave them be Claudine

Time: 7th November 2009 8:05pm

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Mackay QLD
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nike64 says...
I have finally got tiny mangoes

Time: 8th November 2009 11:53am

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Altona
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Jeff says...
Hi Amanda,

have tried the potash on main tree and seeing some new growth that looks healthy...guess time will tell. The scheme water here wouldnt suprise me if its worse than yours. Need a pack of wetta soil just to get shampoo on the hair here let alone what we are feeding our plants. Our water is so hard here once you have the calcium spots on any car windows you cant get it off with a razor blade, have just retic'd the whole yard and will see what regular watering does but looks good so far. Have attatched some pics of both trees and you can see the difference from the old to new growth. Got a whole 6 mangoes from two trees. Maybe next year.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 8th November 2009 7:38pm

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amanda says...
Hey Jeff - looking good! I can highly recommend the liquid Gypsum. It's a bit expensive but u use very little. I got a 20L container of Gypflo for about $150 but I only needed to use 370ml for my 80 odd trees. Works out to about 2.5ml per sqm in my sandy soil. It works much faster than granular stuff and this is important in the dry season and in emergencies.
It may come in smaller sizes - try googling Gypflo.

The problem with "hard" water is that it excerbates salinity issues by increasing the sodium absorbtion ratio (SAR) - try some googling to find out more - but if you are really keen on gardening then a water test better (mine cost $66) a good investment.
Be very careful of chemical fert's - if u use them - only very dilute!

Organic matter is great but too much can be a problem as it tends to hold up the salts in the topsoil and then you require more flushing to get them to the sub-soil. So use mulch etc in moderation. I find chunky mulches the best - one's that keep the soil shaded and protected but allow the water to pass thru'.
Liquid feeding is the most helpful in our conditions though - which I know doesn't help build soil fertility in the long run - but what can u do!? It's a double edged sword in our type of environment.
I build up my organics in the rainy season - thus using the rain to help build the soil and then leave it alone during the dry/drought.

Time: 11th November 2009 10:41am

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About the Author amanda19
Geraldton. WA
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kert says...
Mango is not salt sensitive >see www.echo.org for a table listing salt sensitivities .

Time: 12th November 2009 3:28pm

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kert says...
woops > mango is listed as sensitive to salt and the site is www.echotech.org

Time: 12th November 2009 3:36pm

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amanda says...
That's a pretty comprehensive list kert. Although one needs to consider their environment and soils when evaluating the effects of salinity on a type of plant.

For example if you have sandy soils - the salts are leached more readily than in clay soils. Some plants also need humidity and others cannot tolerate wind - so many factors at play.

A fleshy leafed plant will loose more water when the wind is hot and dry - this is not so good if they are already salt sensitive, as the plants dehydrate more readily and then the salts do their damage.

Claudines plant is suffering from salinity problems also. Putting hard core fert's into the potting mix will likely make things worse, unless she waters very regularly - as soon as that potting mix gets too dry the plant will burn.

In my conditions - passionfruit do really well (but listed as sensitive) - so all things are not equal.

It's more important to be able to recognise the symptoms of salinity damage in your own environment than refer to a list (no offense) and then take action (which may be as drastic as not growing that type of plant :-( or it may just need careful management)

Time: 14th November 2009 11:13am

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Geraldton. WA
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amanda says...
Hi Jeff - heres B4 n after pics of my jaboticabas (note burnt margins tee guys are very salt sensitive) I did gypflo and big water flush then calcium nitrate and then trace elements (I would normally try organic methods first - but this was an emergengcy) did this about 3 weeks ago.
I have only done once so far - but he improvement is quite noticable.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 14th November 2009 7:56pm

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About the Author amanda19
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M Nash says...
I have three very large mangoes that produce thousands of fruit but they drop when almost full size.
They are too big to cut right back and they are a wind brake.
Can I spray the lower branches or what ever branches I can get to, And get fruit off those? Letting the top of the trees remain diseased? If so, What spray would you recommend?

Time: 23rd November 2009 10:41am

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About the Author MNash1
Terranora
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Claudine says...
hi there amanda! i have just noticed you have written about my tree :) as you can proberbly tell...im not a great gardener...but im trying! my tree is looking alot better after spraying it with the mancozeb plus solution....has some new growth...but do you think it also has a salt problem? what do you suggest the best thing for my tree would be? you seem to know alot about mangoes :) you wouldnt happen tp know what type of mango tree i could have? it has a graft and i bought it from kmart nursery in karratha, but it didnt have a tag :( any help is greatly appriciated guys! thanks

Time: 23rd November 2009 5:17pm

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About the Author Claudine
Singleton W.A.
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amanda says...
Hi Claudine, sorry about the delay. I don't really know much about mangoes - but I battle salinity issues on a daily basis. Managing a tree like a mangoe in a pot is going to require a fair bit of work - you would be much better off putting it in the ground to be honest.

Salinity issues are not just due to common "salt" - but it's by far the worst especially if your water is salty and you are coastal. Some fertilisers contain the wrong kinds of "salts" also. When in doubt go for liquid seaweed. Use little and often and pour over the plant also - it will help with any bugs also.

My mangoe trees really loathe the coastal wind here too. Try to keep yours out of it. If you can shade the actual pot it would be good too. The black plastic will cook the roots as it heats up in the sun.

You may be able to tell what kind of mangoe it is when it fruits. They have a lot of R2E2's up that way?

Time: 11th December 2009 11:16am

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About the Author amanda19
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Brad says...
Amanda - are you able to use any tricks to increase the summer humidity at least before the dry wind takes over? e.g. is there space for a support carrying some hessian that can get wet down in the morning? If the base is in a bucket of water, it will suck up moisture for quite a while. This especially helps while the mango gets established

Time: 11th December 2009 12:44pm

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About the Author Brad2
Como, Perth
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amanda says...
Hi Brad.. I have micro-sprayers under the trees and can use these either under low pressure (as a "dripper") or high pressure as a sprayer. I put all that kelp under the trees over winter - it soaks up quite a bit of water and then slowly dries out during the day - maybe this would work in a similar way?

To be honest - I am terrified of the water bill! Last summer cost $2,000 and it really hurt :-(

We are starting to look at land down near Busselton region... Somewhere there is lotsa water and trees - and it's cooler n greener - any ideas anyone on some good locations for 10 - 20 acres?

Time: 12th December 2009 7:05pm

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About the Author amanda19
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Brad says...
I sympathise on the water bill. I'm a (small) backyard gardener and my mango tips come from my dad-in-law, but if you can increase the humidity in summer, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I've no idea how the kelp would go - but dad swears by the hessian trick.

Good luck with the venture down south. Maybe around Capel?

Time: 14th December 2009 1:03pm

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About the Author Brad2
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amanda says...
Ta Brad - I will give it a go. We had 42 degrees the other day and I gave the trees a "mulch spraying" - they came thru fine. Looks like I will just have to bite the bullet and use the water when it gets that hot.

I was thinking around Metricup way - good soil n water...but it's been years since I have been down south..hope I can handle the cold again!? :-)

Time: 15th December 2009 11:32am

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John I says...
Well I am very disappointed. I have regularly sprayed my mango tree with mancozeb and I have watered and fertilized the tree. The fruit came out and reached various sizes some as big as a golf ball and now they are all falling off again. I can only assume the fungal disease(anthracnose)is still the problem. Perhaps when all the fruit is gone I will take to it with a chainsaw. At least that will give it all new branches. It could be the tree is too far gone.

Time: 20th December 2009 11:00am

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About the Author John I
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Brendan says...
Hi John,
The secret in spraying mango and avocado trees for Anthracnose, is the 'wetting agent'!

The guru here tells us to use 30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water. Spray weekly for 3 weeks BEFORE the flowers open, stop spraying when the flowers are open. When the fruit forms, start spraying weekly again for 3 weeks. After that spray once a month untill harvest.

Works for me.

Time: 21st December 2009 10:30am

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About the Author Brendan
Mackay, Q
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John I says...
Thanks for that info Brendan. forgive my ignorance but what would I use as a wetting agent. At present I mix the Mancozeb with water.

Time: 7th January 2010 10:45am

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Wayne says...
That's where you went wrong John, a wetting agent is a must as is to spray with the two together.

Because a wetting agent in small quantities is hard to find where we are I use a "Liquid hand and body soap" called "Wild Snow" which comes in a 5L container for around $23.oo, much cheaper than a wetting agent [and I use it as well because I am allergic to fragrant soap]. Make sure if you use liquid soap that it is fragrant free. You should be able to get it from any wholesaler who supplies cleaning gear.

Brendan will know more about wetting agents than I do. I kept the spray up to our tree last year and had an excellent crop compared to previous years.

My tree had chronic anthracnose but after only a month or two of spraying with the mancozeb/copperoxichloride spray it was clear, I was surprised with the result. I don't think I will need to spray until later in the year now.

Time: 7th January 2010 11:21am

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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John I says...
I have been having trouble getting a fragrance free liquid soap. I am told that the eucaliptus liquid soap is natural so it should be ok? any comment?

Time: 8th January 2010 11:42am

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John I says...
BTW the way Brendon,you do realise the dose you are suggesting is about 3 times the strength recommended on the package. Mancozeb says 18grams for 9 litres of water. Copper o says 5 grams for 2 ltrs of water. Can you confirm please.

Time: 8th January 2010 12:23pm

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About the Author John I
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Wayne says...
You can only try the eucaliptus liquid soap John, I've not heard of it. Brendan has told me that Bunnings have a wetting agent but I couldn't find it in the one here. They have plenty of soil wetting agents ofcourse.

I use about 50grms of each to 9L of water + the wetting agent, Agral is a wetting agent

I hope you can save some fruit John

http://www.davidgray.com.au/products/horticulture/herbicides/agral-spray-adjuvent.html

Time: 8th January 2010 1:33pm

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About the Author Wayne
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John I says...
I found a wetting agent in Bunnings called Spreadmax.Its too late for this years mangos but I will give the tree a hit to carry it through till next year. I will just wait until it cools down a bit.

Time: 10th January 2010 10:12am

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Wayne says...
Great news John, you might like to open it up a bit beforehand to let a bit of sunlight in if you think it's necessary.

Time: 10th January 2010 10:47am

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John I says...
Open what up a bit??? You are starting to worry me now.

Time: 10th January 2010 1:59pm

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About the Author John I
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Wayne says...
"Open what up a bit??? You are starting to worry me now."

Lol John, don't let it worry you they are pretty hardy trees. I actually saw one on the ABC Gardening show today at 1pm today that was planted in 1853, it was huge.

Have a look in that other thread "Cleaning out the Mango tree'

Cut the top out of it and make it spread. It will still get the same amount of fruit and they will be easier to pick.

Time: 10th January 2010 5:37pm

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Wayne says...
Just browsed up through this thread and noticed something that I never new before.

Jeff posted pics on mango leaves dieing from the tip back. Since then I have learnt that this problem requires a heavy dose of Gypsum then blood & bone every couple of months to rectify

Time: 10th January 2010 5:50pm

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amanda says...
Hi Wayne - it's interesting about the nitrogen with salinity issues - apparently a lack of nitrogen in the soil exacerbates salinity issues.
That's why I gave my trees (in order): liquid gypsum, calcium nitrate and then liquid trace elements (Hi Trace). They responded beautifully! not a burnt tip or margin in sight for months. They are due to be done again now.
The way in which the plants are watered is also critical to control (in sandy loams). Long deep soaks. It must be a buggar to control in clay soil - as the clay holds up the salts.

Time: 11th January 2010 10:31am

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Wayne says...
Hey Amanda, I have yet to try liquid gypsum, you have not long got me on to seasol.

I have sandy loam also which is very hungry so need to keep an eye on it. I'm going to use town water for the raised vegie gardens and bore for the lawn and fruit trees.

With the wet coming [I hope] the bore should improve and the rain might wash some of the salt away. The fruit trees don't seem to mind the hard water

Time: 11th January 2010 2:57pm

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amanda says...
Hi Wayne - For some reason I thought u had clay. Just a tip from the agronomist - veggies can tolerate a lot more salt than fruit trees - you may be better to use the more saline bore water on them and save the good water for your fruit trees.
I save my rain water (50,000L) for flushing my fruit trees during summer now (it was irrigating my veggie patch) and the veg get the crappy, salty town water. The idea (for me) is to give the fruit trees a good rainwatering maybe once a month in the dry - to help dilute out the salts and flush them down into the subsoil.
Hardness in water is interesting - my soil and water has a bit too much magnesium - the calcium/magnesium ratio in your soil is important when it somes to caking, water repellance and compaction. Magnesium increases this problem. So gypsum good for this too (to increase calcium levels - improves the soil).
It's a real balancing act with salinity issues. Fingers crossed u get rain soon - it's the panacea for the problem!

Time: 12th January 2010 11:27am

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Wayne says...
This is the water result Amanda
PH 7.5 - 6.5 to 8.5 is A grade
Hardness - 410 - [50/100 is A] 100 to 500 is B grade
T.D.S. - 1200 - [100/300 is A] 1000 to 1500 is C grade
Conductivity - 1800 - [175/450 is A] 1500 to 2200 is C grade
Salinity - 1000 - [10/500 is A] 500 to 2000 is B grade
Iron - .1 - A grade
Manganese - 0 good
Nitrate - 0 good

My fruit trees get watered with the lawn Amanda and they are doing fine so hopefully after this wet the water will improve.

Time: 12th January 2010 11:55am

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About the Author Wayne
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amanda says...
Hi Wayne - is that bore or tap water? high conductivity hey.. mine (tap)
EC (conductivity) 1663
TDS 1064.
Hardness 145

The EC = class 3 (high salinity)
It's the chloride and sodium in mine that is really bad (Cl = 300 mg/L) If >350 mg/L - then classed as severe for plants.

Be careful with it Wayne - the trouble with trees is that they store the sodium and chloride (if only they had kidneys like us!) the damage may not be seen until it passes a threshhold - then quite suddenly u can get tip and margin burn - when they become water stressed usually. When there is excess sodium and insufficient potassium then the trees will actively take up sodium too.
You should be able to manage - use liquid gypsum if you have an emergency - it works instantly unlike powder. Your mangoe trees will tell you first if there is a problem. What other trees do you have?
All things are not equal when it comes to salinity I have found - for eg: mine is exacerbated by hot dry winds and soil that struggles to hold moisture. You may fare better with increased humidity.
Check the water again after the rains and reassess the situation then.

Time: 12th January 2010 12:16pm

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Wayne says...
Thanks for the heads up Amanda, that is my bore water

The town water should be good, it now has fluoride in it ---- thanks to our Premier - just kidding.

Time: 12th January 2010 12:44pm

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Claudine says...
hi all! my mango tree is looking much healthier these days! ive been giving it seasol and a good drink of water everyday, and spraying it with the mancozeb every fortnight, just mixed with water, not added anything else, and its doing well i think??????

any advise is appriciated!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 12th January 2010 3:21pm

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About the Author Claudine
Singleton W.A.
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amanda says...
Go Claudine! It looks great - well done and good on you for the feedback. Looks good to me - but I am no mangoe expert (only the salts part!)

Check the new leaves as they age - if they start to burn as they get older then give it some gypsum and a good flushing.

The advantage with pots is that they can be flushed of fertiliser salts and NaCl salts more readily than the ground I guess.

Time: 12th January 2010 4:17pm

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John I says...
My mango looks great too. Its only problem is the fruit.

Time: 12th January 2010 6:34pm

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About the Author John I
Castle Hill
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amanda says...
Hi John I - how old is your tree?

Time: 12th January 2010 8:59pm

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John I says...
Around 18 years old. Its only 3 mtrs high as I often cut it back. Havnt done so for a few years now.

Time: 14th January 2010 1:06pm

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amanda says...
Oh that old! - too hard for me John I - any other mangoe devotees out there who can help?

My hawiaan guava did the same thing last summer (some were almost ripe but most golf ball size) I put it down to not enough water - but to be honest I really don't know why a tree would drop fruit at that stage...my indian guava was fine.

Time: 14th January 2010 1:14pm

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michael says...
Amanda you truley are a walking encylopedia on Mango trees!

I have three Mango trees that are quite old now. Two beauties (about 8-10 metres) but one however has never grown very big, only 3 metres tall with very close internodes due to some type of disease. Every year it grows new leaves, which then get rot and die off. I was told the soil around it might have been too firm, and not enabling water to soak in, so I dug big holes around it and filled them up with mulch to aid in this.

It actually has started to regrow better then all other years this season, but still not that good. I am wondering,
1. Should I cut it right back past all the old rot to aid in fresh new regrow?
2. Could it be something else entirely?
3. If i do this what should I do after to stop the plant from getting sick again after taking such a beating with the chainsaw?

My even bigger concern though is with my other BIG tree that I will discuss in my next post. Please see attached pics of this one.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3
Picture: 4

Time: 26th January 2010 11:18am

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michael says...
This is the other tree, one of the two good ones!!! It has been growing fine for years, this year however it hasnt sent any new regrowth. The one 10m away is going crazy with new regrwoth! It looks like some type of fungus, and I am freaking out. I am concerned that whatever disease is in my bad one is in this one, however it seems unlikely as the good tree is close to the bad (above) tree then this one is.

Any ideas?
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 26th January 2010 11:22am

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About the Author michael16
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Wayne says...
Hello John, an 18 year old mango tree should be in full production. Here's a few hints.

"Mangoes (Fertiliser) - Fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous is recommended. Terrafoska TE is an organic blend recommended for Mangoes. You can mix two parts Blood/Bone, one part Magnesium sulphate and one part Sulphate of Potash and apply every two months under the canopy at one clenched handful per sq metre."

I'm also starting to think about seasol for a quick fix. Q55 is another fertiliser used by the growers in Bowen.

Time: 26th January 2010 12:00pm

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Wayne says...
Those trees look terrible michael, I think they have Sour Sap caused by a Potash Deficiency in the soil.

"With this major deficiency your tree will be attacked by the fungi Anthracnose which stops flowering or destroys flowers. Apply a complete fertilizer high in Potash and Phosphorous such as Crop king 55 or TERRAFOSKA TE ONCE PER MONTH under the canopy spread. To control Antracnose mix Copper oxychloride and Mancozeb 30gms of each to 4.5litres water spray the canopy monthly do not spray when in flower, a good wetting agent IS A MUST, otherwise you are wasting your time.
Apply the fertilizer one clenched handful per sq metre under the canopy spread"

Michael, if you are going to control disease and want fruit you should open those trees up and let some sunlight in.

PS I have never killed a Mango tree yet with a chain saw, you could prune your trees to just above the first fork, taking ALL the leaves, and you will not hurt it.

Time: 26th January 2010 12:08pm

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amanda says...
Hi michael - let's see what others say..Wayne? I have some ideas but I am more into the soil stuff..

The first tree looks a bit sick. Short internodes usually a nutritonal deficiency. I would spray the tree of anthracnose, clear the mulch away from the trunk (it's very close), prune off the dead bits and bin them.
I would then give the tree some trace elements and a liquid feed of "Power feed" (not too strong) Some gypsum wouldn't hurt either - it is a good source of calcium and sulphate and won't alter pH. Makes soil "sweet".

Treat all the trees for anthracnose - but I have no idea how you do this with big trees!

Time: 26th January 2010 12:14pm

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Wayne says...
The growth of the first tree is stunted from disease and lack of food Amanda, sure, use "Power feed" and it will certainly make a difference but the Mango growers up here do not use power feed or seasol. Q55 and Terrafoska is made with Mangoes in mind and provide all the trace elements required.

The bark on that tree is a give away, it looks more like a Poinsettia than a Mango.

I use a napsack spray on my trees which seems to build up enough pressure. The tree must be sprayed inside and out making sure the leaves are fully coated under and over, so this is one of the reasons to thin the trees. At to onset of anthracnose I spray once a week, after 4 sprays the trees are generally clear.

Gypsum is great and would be a plus for sure.

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html

Time: 26th January 2010 12:45pm

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Wayne says...
Michael, here's a photo of a Kensington Pride mango tree pruned back to the stump with three R2E2 grafts on it. As you can see, these trees are very hardy once established.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 26th January 2010 6:47pm

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michael says...
This is great!!!!! Thank you soooo much guys I will try everything listed and post the results.

Thanks again.

Time: 28th January 2010 4:19pm

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Coolum Beach QLD
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John I says...
Thank you for your advice Wayne. Not much I can do for this year as all fruit has dropped off now. There is a row of large liquid amber trees about 10 mtrs from the tree. I suspect they are sucking all the goodness from the ground and the mango is suffering .

Time: 29th January 2010 11:28am

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smita says...
Thanks wyane for response.Will u please tell me the following Pesticides products Advantage and when we can used dis pesticides how n what quantity .It is applicable on mangoes trees .I have 7 years old mango trees and tell me also duration how i can spray pesticides step by step(From start to end Process)
Mancozeb 75% (WP)
Acetamiprid 20% (SP)
Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% (WP)
Sulphur 80% (WP)
Acephate 75% (SP)
Metalaxyl 35% (WS)
Hexaconazole 35% (SC)
Lambda Cyhalothrin 5% (EC),

Regards;
Smita

Time: 6th February 2010 2:52am

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Goa
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Wayne says...
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5306.html
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_7718.htm

To much information there for me to give advice Smita, some I have not heard of.

I use 30 grams of Mancozeb to 4.5 litres of water with at least as much wetting agent if I'm using it by itself. Start spraying weekly about a month before flowering and continue until fruit is about 1/2 grown, but keep an eye on it.

With the copperoxichloride, I combine 30 grams with the Mancozeb, but you cannot spray with this while the tree is flowering. Once the fruit is set you can add it back into the mix. I don't know hoe effective Mancozeb is by itself.

Carbendazim is a post harvest treatment for the fruit so perhaps the Carbendazim 12% + Mancozeb 63% as a spray might be worth a try.

For dipping the fruit after harvesting to stop stem rot and spots I have had success with Condys Crystals [Potassium permanganate]

Read the above links and I hope they help

Time: 6th February 2010 6:08am

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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
I live in okinawa japan and alot of the local mango farmers have been experiencing this "new" disease with there plants, the plants have large growths, that looks like a conglomeration of leaves and stem, i dont know if anyone knows what this is, some reasercher came to my farm yesterday and asked for a sample, soo i dont know if its a new disease, or if it is only happening in Okinawa? i will post another thread tomorrow with pictures of the infected mango trees

Time: 6th March 2010 9:44pm

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Haebaru, OKinawa
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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
hey i finally got around to taking a picture of the "disease" this was taked from the top of a 2 and a half year old cutting. sry for the crappy piture quality

Time: 13th March 2010 9:44pm

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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
" "

Time: 13th March 2010 9:45pm

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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...

Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 13th March 2010 9:48pm

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Wayne says...
That sure is a bad looking virus

Time: 14th March 2010 6:05am

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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
lol, so i guess nobody knows what it is ? Agricultural researchers come by all the time and collect samples, but ive had no word back from them

Time: 14th March 2010 5:04pm

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BJ says...
Never seen that. Looks more like plant you might smoke, than one you might eat...

Time: 14th March 2010 5:23pm

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Okinawa Tropical Fruits says...
thats a a mango cutting in the vegetative state, not flowering, you don't smoke or eat it. Any advice would be helpful

Time: 15th March 2010 11:24pm

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Wayne says...
I would be trying a copper based spray with ample wetting agent to make it stick. If that didn't work then Neem Oil.

It looks like a mold to me

Time: 16th March 2010 9:41am

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Brad says...
Wayne (& others) I've noticed your recipe normally has copper oxychloride. Any important pros & cons for this over cupric hydroxide (which is what I've got)? I suspect much of a muchness, but I don't know

Time: 17th March 2010 12:39pm

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Wayne says...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_hydroxide

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fungicides


I think you are right Brad, I've not heard of your product but it does sound the same. That list of fungicides is interesting


Time: 18th March 2010 4:15pm

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Brad says...
Another link off your first one is nice and succinct.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7481.html

I understood the pro of the 'new' copper sprays over Bordeaux to be less likely to burn. This page doesn't discriminate our 2, but says they would be less persistent than bordeaux in rain.

Since Perth doesn't rain (4 months now I think), I'm more worried about burn than persistance. You might have the opposite preference.

Cheers

Time: 18th March 2010 8:41pm

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safiugharadar says...
safi

Time: 27th March 2010 5:48pm

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Nerida says...
Hi, I have 2 old mango trees (?>20 years) in our suburban backyard in the inner-west of Sydney. There is a big lush one in the centre of the yard that, historically produces much less fruit than the other which is half its size, but in a garden bed next to a fence with neighbouring native trees on the other side. The fruit from the last 2 seasons has developed a black rot over the skin, particularly around the stem, some of the fruit were ruined by this.
The smaller tree, over the past couple of years has begun to yellow & although regrowth has diminished, it produced a bumper crop this year! A horticulturalist from Flowerpower suggested that the tree was nutrient deficient & needed pruning. So, I cut it back significantly, pulled all plants out round the base, added compost & mulch, fed it sparingly with slow-release "Organic Extra", and have been watering it every 1-2weeks. There has been no regrowth in 2 months except for 3 little buds which are not progressing (I also pruned out the canopy of the other tree & it has been growing back really well). The other problem with this small tree is that around the base of the trunk there is a large dark brown indentation which covers the bottom 1/3 (about 40cm high)& smaller indentations are developing over the branches and oozing small amounts of sap. In the past 2 weeks the few green leaves left are starting to die off.
HELP!!! I don't want my tree to die, but I am starting to fear the worst!

Time: 22nd April 2010 4:50pm

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Wayne says...
Hello Nerida

Don't panic, we'll fix it. But before we try can you post some pics.

I don't know why one tree would produce more than the other, are they the same variety? Does the tree with the lush growth flower as much as the other, if so and the flower comes to nothing then it has anthracnose which is most common.

The tree with the fruit going black certainly has anthracnose or something similar. In both cases you need to spray weekly with a copper based spray such as copper oxychloride and mancozeb, mixed 30g of each to 4.5L water and make sure you use a wetting agent.

If the fruit is developing stem rot on the tree the spray will fix that. If the fruit is marking after you pick it wash the fruit as soon as you pick it in a weak condies crystals or a weak detol solution.

The brown marks and leeching sap indicates it it needs sulphate of potash as well as a good fertiliser such as Terrafoske PE. "Organic Extra", should be fine but make sure you are fertilising out where the drip line of the tree was before you cut it back and not around the trunk.

It is the wrong time of the year to prune a mango tree, it is now dormant until after winter. Make sure you seal the cuts with a branch sealer or a weak water based paint solution.

I don't think you will see any improvement in the tree until about October, so make sure you do not over water it. It will not need much water at all over winter

Time: 22nd April 2010 5:09pm

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Jack says...
I have a mangoe tree appox 3 years old was wanting to know if i can prune a 2 meter high tree to 1 meter in spring will it shoot again and also can i transplant it out to another place in the garden. Please could someone let me know.

Time: 25th April 2010 9:58pm

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Nick says...
Here are some Autumn pics of my mango trees. I was just wondering what all the spots are caused by. I guessed the yellowish colour was iron deficiency so I lowered the pH from 7 to 6. I also curious if anyone else has grown mangoes in Victoria.

Time: 16th May 2010 12:01pm

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Nick says...
The pictures arent working so I'll describe the problem. One leaf is going browny orange around the edges. Some leaves have dull grey spots and are withering from the tip while others have dark black spots. Lastly four leaves are going really light green/ light yellow in places.

Time: 16th May 2010 12:23pm

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Wayne says...
Hello Jack
Yes you can prune your tree back by 1/3 safely. If you are taking the centre out and leaving the side branches that will all the better. Personally I wouldn't do it until after your season when the new growth starts, the tree is dormant now.

Transplanting is not a problem either, just be careful with the tap root. We always pruned the trees before transplanting but people here say they have more success by not pruning.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/119787/mango-growing.pdf


Nick, I think your tree just lacks nourishment, search Mango tree fertiliser DPI QLD. Perhaps some sulphate of Potash then a fertiliser such as Terrafoska TE. I to have problems loading pics, this site times out if you pics are to high in quality, if I use the el-cheapo camera it's fine

http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/5240.html

Time: 16th May 2010 4:46pm

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Nick says...
Thanks Jack.
I do have some potash but I'm just stuck on when to apply it. I was guessing Spring.

Time: 17th May 2010 8:39pm

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Nick says...
I bought some Seasol liquid seaweed which can be applied year-round. It says it contains very little NPK. Apart from this would it work some miracles on my troubled tree. I think it also says it increases frost/disease tolerance which would be a massive extra considering its now Winter.

Time: 22nd May 2010 7:09pm

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luis says...
i have something growing on the bark of my mango tree it looks like some kind of moss but im not sure how do i get rid of it and is it hurting the tree also ive had this tree for over 6 years and seems to have stopped growing i have tried fertilizers pruning and nothing seems to work it bears fruit but i want the tree to grow or spread or something any ideas thank you
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Time: 28th May 2010 4:25am

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miami florida
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Ben says...
Hi John,

I live nearby and tend to get early flowers too on my mango tree. But because our overnight temperatures are often too low for the flowers to pollinate properly, most of the young fruits abort early as they are sterile. My tree label suggests cutting of the early flower panicles in cooler climates (us) and the flowers will reshoot in warmer times, with a higher success rate. I will be trying this method this season. Any thoughts anyone?

Time: 16th June 2010 10:26am

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grub says...
Okinawa Tropical Fruits
mate looks like Mango Malformation Disease (MMD) is a fungal
disease of mangoes caused by several species of
Fusarium, some yet to be described. Mango is the
only known host of the disease.

found in darwin a new disease in 2007
hope this helps

here the link
http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Plant_Pest/mango_malformation_revised.pdf

Time: 17th June 2010 9:41pm

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Claudine says...
Hi all, i havent written on here for months as my tree has been doing great! heaps of new growth and very green, no dying brown leaves or black spots to be seen :) i stopped spaying it with the mancozeb as soon as it was looking good, and free of the dying leaves...and have just been giving it water really for the last 2 months, but now its winter and its cold and getting rain...i was just wondering if i still should give it a water, its still in a ceramic black pot, and should i apply any fertilizer? i really want it to fruit this summer, as ive had it for around 6 yrs now and never had a mango!
thanks, love to read any tips :)

Time: 20th June 2010 10:35pm

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Singleton W.A.
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grub says...
gidday all
i have a leave problem on 2 of my kp mangoes
there in pots in a shade house, till spring ..
i have 6 in there and the 2 in both the corners have this leave disorder more than the rest .it also has mold growing under the leavers so im thinking it could be to humid in the house .it has not effected my bannanas.... can you tell me what i have ?they only get rain water,and every 2 weeks get hit with sea sole and power feed . i did fertilize them when i repotted them 4 months ago (organic) and have not added any more than the liquid power feed ..
i thought it was fertilizer burn from over feritilizering or not enough water .the salts in my water dont even regerster on a salt meter .many thanks grub
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Time: 22nd June 2010 8:14pm

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cathh says...
Hi there, i was just wanted to ask about my mango tree, it has some weird white thing on it. i was just wondering what disease or problem does it have?
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Time: 14th July 2010 5:17pm

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Nick says...
Wierd.. that's exactly the same thing on my mangoes leaves. I think I read in a book that that is sunburn or something but I'm not completely sure. All I know is that it looks really unusual

Time: 20th July 2010 5:49pm

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amanda says...
Well - I have just about had it with my mangoes!? This tree has just become burnt with the first heavy rains washing 'salts' back into the irrigation zone maybe?
It is likely due to the extra stuff this tree gets - as the other tree is 30m away and totally neglected...and it's doing much better? (both KP seedlings)

Anyway - grub's is fertiliser burn I would say and cathh's looks like an old burn on an old leaf, that is just flaking off now. I have some of these too.

I don't know what to do about my mangoe?
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Time: 21st July 2010 1:10pm

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Nick says...
Well I guess that makes sense cause only the oldest leaves near the ground are looking like that. Thanks for that amanda.

Time: 22nd July 2010 5:46pm

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Nick says...
Well I guess that makes sense cause only the oldest leaves near the ground are looking like that. Thanks for that amanda.

Time: 22nd July 2010 5:46pm

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Brad says...
I'm not surprised you're struggling with Mangoes - you need my father in law as a consultant. He said last night for Perth, you'd start ensuring heavy water now, more when they flower and right through before reducing it for fruit flavour

Maybe you can ask come canarvon growers to stop by on their way down the coast?

Time: 22nd July 2010 7:23pm

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Nick says...
This is irrelevant but I've planted 2 mango seeds and they both keep developing a sticky honey-like substance on top no matter how many times I wash them. I have never had success with them. Does anyone know the problem and possibly the prevention/ cure?

Time: 22nd July 2010 7:37pm

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amanda says...
Thanks Brad - is your father in law an ex-carnarvon grower? I may know of him - spent 5 yrs there.
The interesting thing about these two trees is that the one that is looking good is also sitting on top of where I divined the underground water stream..?
They do seem to love their water don't they...I haven't given them much cos I didn't think they would be growing in this weather..? Thanks for the tip.

Nick - can u post a photo? There are others on the forum with a lot more experience in mangoes that may know..?

Time: 23rd July 2010 9:37am

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Brad says...
Nah. he comes from southern india and has grown them really well in Perth for years. He's had a few commercial growers asking advice

Time: 23rd July 2010 9:46am

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Kristina says...
Hi, I live in Sydney's Inner West and have a young mango tree (about 4 years old) which I'd like to prune to contain it's size. Can I prune now? I've noticed a flush of leaves appearing on the tips and I'm worried I may be too late now?

Time: 26th July 2010 1:58pm

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Brendan says...
Hi Kristina,
Mango trees (like most fruit trees), are usually pruned just after they finish fruiting. Up here, that's around March / April. Don't know about in Sydney tho.
Cut it back by about 1/3rd is the safest bet, as a too heavy prune can kill the tree.

Time: 27th July 2010 7:18am

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Kristina says...
Thanks Brendan
Down here they finish fruiting about February. I was just wondering if I could prune it before it went through the fruiting stage, and I don't know if the flush of growth I'm seeing now is leaves and therefore if it's OK or not to chop back at this stage, or do I wait for one more whole cycle and cut as soon as I pick the last fruit next year?

Time: 28th July 2010 9:03am

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Wayne says...
Hey Kristina
The flush of growth you see now is the prelude to flowering [I think]. Like Brendan says I would suggest not to cut it back now, wait until it fruits and you won't shock the tree so much. Beside, it won't grow any until after it fruits.

Again like Brendan says, prune your tree by roughly 30% to be safe as it is such a young tree. When it gets to be 15-20-30 years old you can then cut it back to the stump. This is how many Bowen farmers operate, they then graft their R2E2 Mangoes on to the stumps

Time: 28th July 2010 4:55pm

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Rodney says...
Hi,

Can you have a look at the two photos I have posted, this looks like anthracnose or black spot on the leaves of my Mango Tree.Can anyone tell me though what the tiny white dots are.

Regards

Rodney
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Time: 2nd August 2010 10:50pm

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Brisbane QLD
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VIVEK says...
AMANDA,
My complements to you for such a beautiful
garden/farm,I vsited it Just now,you can try homeopathic medicine NAT.MUR.12x add 2 drops or pills to 1 lit dissolve it and give it to the roots you will see the diff withi 2-days pl. give me feedback on bapu4@yahoo.com

Time: 12th August 2010 9:00pm

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INDIA
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VIVEK says...
Dear AMANDA
This is for the problem of sodium chloride
In your water.
vivek

Time: 12th August 2010 9:31pm

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amanda says...
Hi VIVEK. What is NAT.MUR please?

Time: 12th August 2010 9:35pm

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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
Thhis is a homeopathic remedy

Time: 12th August 2010 9:53pm

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INDIA
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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
We can discuss if you are there on PC

Time: 12th August 2010 9:57pm

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amanda says...
I don't think so VIVEK. How about u direct me to your "official website"..?

PS - HOMEO-pathy is for humans - not plants.

Time: 12th August 2010 10:03pm

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VIVEK says...
Amanda,
That is the mis conception prevelant amongst people,in plants it does miracles
I dont have any official web site as yet.
Vivek

Time: 12th August 2010 10:14pm

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amanda says...
that's ok Vivek - but for security reasons I cannot connect with u live. Why not tell us all about your product and then we can discuss?

Time: 12th August 2010 10:18pm

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VIVEK says...
Dear Amanda,
You are going on wrong NAT>MUR is not my product nor I do any business of such product,it was out of sheer affection towards the fruiting trees that I suggested you this solution.NAT>MUR must be awalable in any health store if you enquire.In INDIA it casts 10rs. for 20 drops. !$=45rs.I hope you are satisfied.
vivek

Time: 12th August 2010 10:29pm

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amanda says...
Ok - thanks Vivek. Any solution to salinity problems would be a world wide revolution. Worth many more $ than 45 rupees I would think?
I am off to Bali soon - do u think I could find it there?


Time: 12th August 2010 10:37pm

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VIVEK says...
I Have little Idea about America/Bali
but you can check up with few health stores and you are sure to get one.

Time: 12th August 2010 10:50pm

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About the Author bapu4
INDIA
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amanda says...
thank you Vivek - I will do that. Do u use this product yourself? Do u know what the ingredients are maybe?

(sorry but we get a lot of "spammers" on this site - so it is hard to know when something is truth or not...)

Time: 12th August 2010 11:07pm

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VIVEK says...
Dear Amanda,
I am a homeopathy practitioner,I understand your concern,It is out of sheer love and selfless service to plants and humanity.Nat.mur is nothing but potentised sodium chlorides,the solution thet i suggested you is based on sound fundsmental principle of homeopathy that says"like cures like" If you give the samle of remdy to any international laboratory no lab can detect the content of the remedy the will say this contains nothing,actually these remedies work on NANO level,The disease that is created by a crude form of a substance will be cured by the same substance in potentised form,this is proved.soon you will see that agri world is going to be taken by stor for good and you will forget the pesticides and fungicides because in htes you aim at killing fungus or pests but iin homeopathy we taget the patient and not the disease in agri's case it is the plant,the plant is made so strong that it withstands or repels the pests and fungicide,remember my words that you will change your ways for better in future,pl.don't forget to inform me when you start on the path,imagine pesticide free fruits/vegitables,it will not be organic farming but homeopathic farming,homeopathy does'nt say no to organic manure,but to other so called 'cides which are always a threat to health of masses.The expenses are also peanuts as compared to modern farming methods.
vivek

Time: 12th August 2010 11:49pm

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VIVEK says...
DeaR AMANDA,
I am not a regular visitor to this site,only the loded fruit trees pulled me.Also I am not very good at typing so excuse me skiping the Alphabets or at times scribling with them.
vivek

Time: 13th August 2010 12:47am

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fred says...
I left a 40lb bag of salt(for pool) outside right next to my mango tree and went on vacation not remembering i had left it there. Had alot of rain and when i returned most of the bag was absorbed. Will this harm my tree? it is approx. 25-30 feet high.

Time: 13th August 2010 10:44pm

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Wayne says...
Hello Fred
I don't think the salt will harm your tree as it feeds mostly out near the drip line and if the salt hasn't got out that far I wouldn't worry.
Might be worth spreading some Gypsum around to help disperse it, not sure.

Time: 14th August 2010 7:41am

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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Brendan says...
G'day fred,
Doesn't sound too good.
But, try applying a 'lot' of gypsum to the area. Make it 4 to 5 handfuls per sq metre and water that in. (can't overdo gypsum).
I'd buy some 'liquid gypsum' and give it that too.

Time: 14th August 2010 7:48am

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Mackay, Q
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Nick says...
Hey everyone, does anyone have any tips on pulling up a young mango tree? It is still quite small but I want to replace it with a larger, healthier one. I was also planning to replant it in a pot.

Time: 21st August 2010 9:41pm

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Altona, VIC
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Michael says...
My mango trees in surburbian Sydney is putting out flower blooms . Are others as well ?

Time: 23rd August 2010 12:48pm

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Wakeley
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BJ says...
They are flowering nicely up here now, so I guess it should be time for trees in Sydney to start putting out flowers too.

Time: 23rd August 2010 1:23pm

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About the Author Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
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Pb says...
Please can one of you tell me what to do with my mango tree (planted 2 years ago)that is flowering for first time now but has some brown dying leaves. some leaves the "brown" is along the middle of the leaves along the vein - so spreading from inside of leaf to outside. Am I over watering it. many thanks for any help

Time: 22nd September 2010 12:57pm

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Perth
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Wayne says...
Could be a couple of things Pb, perhaps Anthracnose or more likely Soursap if the leaves are dying from the tip back. If it is Soursap give it a good spread of Sulphate of Potash under the canopy as well as some Gypsum every couple of months.

For Anthracnose spray weekly with Mancozeb only until the fruit sets. Then add Copperoxichloride until the fruit is 1/3 plus grown. These sprays won't hurt anyway if it's not the fungus -- but do not spray the flowers with a copper spray, it will kill them.

How old is the tree?

Time: 22nd September 2010 3:56pm

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About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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Pb says...
Thank you so much Wayne.

I bought "Mancozeb plus" today .. will try it out tommorrow, it has sulphur in it. Is that still ok to use? I will do the potash and gypsum too and see if that helps. The mango tree has endured two perth winters and this is its second spring..only planted for 2 years but have no idea how old it was when I bought it. Just a Big W $70 job and I don't even know what type of mango it is. Many thanks

Time: 23rd September 2010 12:06am

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perth
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Wayne says...
"Mancozeb plus" is fine Pb, I forgot to mention that the spray will not work without a wetting agent. Searles Spredmax is very good, I apologise for that Pb

Time: 23rd September 2010 7:21am

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Mackay QLD
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BJ says...
Wow, you have to pay $70 for a generic Big W mango?

For that I'd expect a double grafted Bowen/Thai on dwarfing rootstock!


Time: 23rd September 2010 9:52am

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About the Author Theposterformerlyknownas
Brisbane
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Brad says...
Pb - next time head out to Tass1 in the valley. Around $40 will get you a dwarf or full sized named cultivar in good condition
(and despite the fact that I keep recommending Joe, I'm not affiliated in any way, other than liking the bloke)

Time: 23rd September 2010 11:36am

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About the Author Brad2
Como, Perth
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Jimmy says...
I like him too, he has a certain swarthy southern italian charm that just gets me going.

Time: 23rd September 2010 1:15pm

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Perth
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grub says...
gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance



Time: 24th September 2010 1:36pm

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grub says...
gidday i trying to make the organic fertilizer from this forum with 2 parts blood bone 1 part epson salts and 1 part potash .the only problem is the only blood and bone i can get has trace elements already in it (rich grow preimun plus with 1% potash) .i can get meat meal so my question is can i use the preminum or the meAt meal?many thanks in advance



Time: 24th September 2010 1:36pm

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amanda says...
Grub - why not just use the B&B with the trace elements?
It sounds like a "complete" fertiliser?
You may not need to add extra potassium or magnesium - the trees will tell you if they are lacking in something - and u can address a particular element then?

Time: 24th September 2010 6:22pm

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Geraldton Mid West WA
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Claudine says...
hi there! just wondering if you all could give some tips on what to feed, or do for my mango tree this time of year...its been a little while since i wrote on here...but i have a mango tree in a pot...had it for about 6 years now, bought it from kmart in karratha W.A. when i was working up there, but it has been back with me in mandurah for the past 4yrs now..
and it has never beared fruit...but is starting to flower now...and has tiny mangoes on it! so im hoping to get some mangoes this year!! it has been very healthy and green since this time last year really...all tips will be great! thanks :) just added some pictures so you can see how much its grown since last time i posted, and the flowering too!
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 27th September 2010 10:00pm

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About the Author Claudine
Singleton W.A.
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grub says...
gidday can some give me some advice on these mango leaves ?they look a little pail compard to my other smaller mangoes with yellow veins,these mangoes have been in pots for 8 years, and they have been in the open all year and had 7or 8 frosts this winter .i have just planted them in the groung this week end .im on real gut less sandy soil so i mixed half a borrow of cow manure to the holes then rotary hoed them in to a square meter i have not added any thing else,i was going to add gypson at 500 grams a square mtr and in 2 weeks was going to add some blood bone potash any help much appreciated ,these trees are new to me im a vegie guy...sorry for the short story many thanks in advance
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 28th September 2010 3:04pm

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grub says...
sorry me again i have a couple of limbs starting to die and go black and slowly creaping down the limb ..i was going to cut them off after some advice ..i think they are frost damaged .but i just guessing .many thanks grub.... sorry for the bad photo
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 28th September 2010 3:13pm

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amanda says...
Hi grub - your sand looks as sad as mine :( They will need a lot of water.

Are u watering with scheme or bore water?

How much water have you been giving them and how often? - a bit hard to tell from the pics but the leaves on the dead limb look really burnt? can u post another pic of them?

The other leaves look ok - I would just be giving them seasol (seaweed) at this stage - likely have transplant shock after 8 yrs in a pot. U really want to see some fresh new growth b4 u start fertilising them.

Were they pot-bound? Circling roots in the pot?



Time: 28th September 2010 9:12pm

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Geraldton Mid West WA
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grub says...
gidday amanda they are on bore water now .i was using seasol and power feed every 2 weeks when they were in pot with rain water and i probly wated them every 3 days with 4 liters,i read not to give em much water before they flower.i have watered every day since transplanted only in the morning with mini sprinklers.yes they were pot bound
i will take some more photos

Time: 28th September 2010 9:30pm

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amanda says...
Grub - have u had your bore water tested recently?



Time: 29th September 2010 9:52am

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grub says...
hi amanda i have had my water tested and the salts were 1730 ppm ,i have the analist report here some were..i post once if found it .thanks

Time: 29th September 2010 7:39pm

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amanda says...
Ok Grub - that's a start. My tap water has 160 ppm Sodium and 300 ppm Chloride. This sodium is classed as "Moderate" and the Chloride "Moderate" (but only for chloride tolerant plants)

Did the people/lab who tested your water give u any reference ranges/comments in relation to growing fruit trees with your bore water?

1100 ppm salinity is the max level recommended for humans. I would discontinue the bore water on your mangoes (they hate salt!) and get some advice before u use it again - just to be sure.

We have a retic specialist outlet here called "Think Water" - and they are pretty good - also many rural suppliers like CRT, Landmark have an agronomist/horticulturalist - who can assist u. They also have kits for this kind of testing - I had one done through Delta Water and it cost about $60 - I got great feedback on my results in relation to gardening with our awful tap water.



Time: 29th September 2010 9:10pm

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Nick says...
Hey everybody,
My mango is about to flower but im starting to worry because I read on a website that pollination cant occur below 12 degrees. And we are still get nights to about 9 degrees. What can I do to ensure some success?

Time: 8th November 2010 7:54pm

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Altona, VIC
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grub says...
gidday my mango's are in flower even after there horror winter and a dozen frosts ..we have had 30 mm rain last week and im wondering if this will affect fruit set and disease?heresa photo of them ,thanks in advance grub
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3

Time: 15th November 2010 10:06pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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amanda says...
wow grub! that's really positive news for anyone wanting to grow mangoes down that way. I don't know the answer to your question though...maybe someone else?

Rain can affect fruit set - but maybe 30mm might be ok?

Time: 16th November 2010 10:34am

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Wayne says...
That much rain shouldn't effect the blossoms Grub, unless it was heavy.
The tree in pic 1 and the bloom on the right of that tree is showing typical signs of anthracnose, I hope I'm wrong, but you might consider fertilising with Potash and spraying the trees with Mencozeb.

The blooms are open but not set yet so you can't use a copper spray until the fruit has set. If it is anthracnose it might be to late, is there any sign of fruit setting yet?

Time: 16th November 2010 11:11am

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Mackay QLD
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grub says...
gidday amanda & wayne, thanks for the advice i need it as mangos are new to me and they all said i couldnt do it lol..i applyed potash 2 weeks ago about 50 grams a square meter , i was spraying mencozeb every fortnight up untill i notice a open flower about 2-3 weeks ago,no i havnt seen any fruit as yet.i also put the home made te fertilizer on them as well...thanks again ..

Time: 16th November 2010 4:51pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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grub says...
oh forgot toask about the copper mix i have read on the site ....
30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb, 60ml of a 'good' wetting agent, to 4.5litres water..
this is double what my mancozeb recommends.do i stick will the recommended doze or can we up it to \
30g copperoxy chloride, 30g mancozeb
my mancozeb is 700 grams a kilo
thanks

Time: 16th November 2010 4:55pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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Wayne says...
It seems to me that you are doing everything right Grub, it will take time for the potash to kick in and I don't think you can over do it.

Mancozeb only at this stage but I would go 3grms per litre minimum. I personally feel that 60ml of wetting agent to 4.5ltr of water is excessive, goodness, a normal bottle is around 125ml

I don't know if this would work but I have recently found that Eco-oil used as a wetting agent works fine and kills two birds with one stone - and you need only about 5ml? per liter - even if you double it, it sounds better

Please keep us up to speed with what's happening

Time: 16th November 2010 5:19pm

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Mackay QLD
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grub says...
thanks for the advice wayne and amanda here are my little mangoes ..i have started spraying Mancozeb and copper oxychloride last week . thanks again grub
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 15th December 2010 10:38pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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Wayne says...
They look great Grub, no sign of disease at all on the stems, well done

Time: 16th December 2010 7:00am

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amanda says...
Awesome grub! U are doing better than me - my mangoes never even flower...they just don't get enough water at the right time.

I would also be tempted to give them a a treat of gypsum next autumn and, working in with the season rains, it should give the soil a hand to leach some of the salts.
Gypsum has soluble sulphur which is good for sandy soils and calcium - which is needed by fruiting trees also. It is a good "soil sweetener"

I hope your fruit is delicious! :)

Time: 16th December 2010 6:45pm

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Geraldton Mid West WA
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grub says...
thanks guys i have a 25 kg bag of gypsum ready to go just hadnt got around to applying it

Time: 16th December 2010 11:21pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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grub says...
Hi every one merry chritmas to you all
i have source some terrafoska te fertiliser in wa, they also have reproduced the mango mix ,so i guessing as its for my mangoe's i should order the mango mix instead of the terrafoska te.
any one been using the mango mix?

Time: 24th December 2010 1:20pm

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dardanup south east bunbury wa
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Nick says...
Merry Christmas to you too grub,
Does anyone know at what temperature new mango shoots get damaged. I was just wondering because its going to get down to 11 degrees one night this week.

Time: 14th January 2011 6:44pm

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Altona, VIC
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Jason says...
They should be ok down to pretty much 0c, I never saw cold damage on a mango I was trying to grow outside here and it was in the ground for about 5 years, just wasn't warm enough to grow

Time: 14th January 2011 11:48pm

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Portland
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Nick says...
Here's some pics of my oldest mango tree finally finding its feet. After 2 years of attemted flowering and failure its finally branching out everywhere along the trunk. Also I replaced the younger dead mango with a slightly larger one and its starting to shoot.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2
Picture: 3
Picture: 4
Picture: 5
Picture: 6

Time: 27th January 2011 7:35pm

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grub says...
gidday here is the latest photos on my mangoes i have 2 left on the one tree cant wait to get them lol
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 17th February 2011 11:23pm

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Brendan says...
G'day grub,
What variety is that? Looks a bit like the old 'common'? (which I like the best! :-)

Time: 19th February 2011 7:59am

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Mackay, Q
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grub says...
gidday brendan it's the bowen mango growen from seed..


here is a photo of one of my mangoes that was totaly bald with no leaves 2 weeks ago .
it lost all the leave when the dripper block up didnt get water for a lest a month or more .they do recoever very quickly when the get a drink and feed..
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 20th February 2011 10:32pm

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Brendan says...
G'day grub,
I can't see too much mulch around your trees? Mulch (as you would know), helps retain moisture, just remember to keep it away from the trunk :-)

Time: 21st February 2011 9:11am

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Nick says...
Up to what time of the year can I use liquid powerfeed on my mango?

Time: 6th March 2011 7:58pm

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Altona
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Glory says...
Hi Nick how do you protect your Mango tree from the cold weather or frost?

Time: 6th March 2011 9:47pm

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Nick says...
Hi Glory,
When the temperatures drop below 4 degrees I put over a cover (an old, lightweight blanket that droops to the ground), a couple of half lemonade bottle filled with water underneath and starting this year, an anti-dessicant spray (I use Yates Droughtshield). If we ever do get temperatures below 0 I'll probably add an additional heat source underneath the blanket.

Time: 7th March 2011 6:53pm

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Pami says...
HI, I got a few mango plants grown from seeds and in pots for last 2-4 yrs and now only one is given a couple of mangoes and they are still on tree, green. It frowered in Nov. and fruited and now nearly matured, but don't know when to pick it. Had plenty of flowers and dropped, washed off by rain and rotten by anthracnose. All plants looking good, but would like also to know what time of the year to treat these plants, like pruning, change of soil, spray etc. Could you pls advise me anyone out there....Thanks. Sorry, have no pics taken, may be next time...Ta.

Time: 9th March 2011 8:59pm

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Castle Hill,Sydney, NSW
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Aryan Dsena says...
I have a 40Years old Mango tree{20Ft} in our backyard but from last 7years it was fruiting hardly 4-5mangoes BUT this time I thought to add fertilizers{2Kg Urea,10gm Gibberenlic Acid and 1kgDAP} and 50ml pesticide i.e {"Dimethoate"}both sprayed and into ground.I did fertilizing and pesticiding in December and in January we received Uncountable flowers I mean flowers were covering whole tree!!Then on 11th March I read this Forum to spray pesticide while flowering so I Heavily sprayed Dimethoate with water Gun over flowers But from last Two days flowers have become BARE{Dried} and 80% of them have fallen:(:( But now there is Leaf growth all over the tree Gosh the leaves are growing like bullet train!!
Help me what went wrong??What to do??

Time: 24th March 2011 5:37am

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About the Author Aryan Dsena
New Delhi
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Wayne says...
Hello Aryan, I've not heard of Dimethoate but after googling it, it seems you have used the wrong stuff.
Anthracnose is what killed your flowers and you need a copper based spray to kill the fungus so this is what is recommended for us.

About a month before the tree flowers spray weekly with 30grams of Copper Oxichloride and 30grams Mancozeb mixed with 4.5litres of water making sure you use a good wetting agent, otherwise the spray will not work

Once the flowers start to open cut the Copper Oxichloride from the spray but keep spraying weekly with the Mancozeb until the fruit has set. Then re-introduce the copper oxichloride and keep spraying until the fruit is half grown or larger

These are Yates products and you should be able to get them. If not contact Yates direct and seek their advice

cheers

Another thought is that the spray used would have killed any insects so perhaps the flowers were not polinated

Time: 24th March 2011 7:44am

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Original Post was last edited: 24th March 2011 9:10am

About the Author Wayne
Mackay QLD
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John I says...
I have decided to give my mango tree a severe cut back to get rid of diseased branches. What time of year is best for that?

Time: 27th March 2011 1:19pm

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Castle hill
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Wayne says...
As soon as you pick the fruit John, and as the new growth is about to start is when I do mine


Time: 27th March 2011 4:35pm

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Mackay QLD
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Brendan says...
I'm about to prune mine right now, but it won't stop RAINING! :-(

Time: 29th March 2011 8:26am

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Mackay, Q
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John I says...
Done mine already.Looks like a fork now.

Time: 2nd April 2011 4:32pm

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Castle hill
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Jazz says...
Hi Rodney
I have the same thing that happened on your mango tree. Did you find out what it was? If so, can you please tell me how to get rid of it?
Regards,
Jazz

P.S sorry for the bad picture, my camera isn't working.
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 14th April 2011 9:02pm

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About the Author Jazz
QLD
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grub says...
Gidday ,i final got to eat my 2 mangoes the irst fsince i transplanted them in the ground in september ,they tast heaps better than the shop bought mangoes .so thanks sor all the help..
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1
Picture: 2

Time: 20th April 2011 4:45pm

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Brendan says...
Hi grub,
Good stuff! When you get too many on your tree, try eating some half-ripe, with a tiny bit of salt. They are yum! I'd eat twice as many half-ripe than ripe.

Btw, did you see my post on 'square watermelons'? (Search top right :-)

Time: 24th April 2011 7:34am

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Mackay, Q
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Xiem says...
Yes eating unripe or green mangoes is the way to go in SE Asia. Sometimes they make a brown-coloured sauce to dip the pieces in, probably containing palm sugar and salt or fish sauce.

Time: 30th April 2011 12:23pm

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grub says...
gidday brendan
thanks ill be trying thoes green mangoes next time round thanks mate
yes mate i did see the watermelons
im going to try it next year
and see how it goes

Time: 18th May 2011 3:53pm

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John I says...
Think I may have killed my mango tree. I cut it right back and there are no new shoots after 8 weeks. Oh well,so what,it was a crap tree anyway.

Time: 22nd May 2011 2:20pm

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Castle hill
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Wayne says...
Don't give up John, you have just pruned it at the wrong time of year. Your tree will be dormant until about October so if it survives until then it will shoot. By pruning the tree now you have cut away this seasons crop so look forward to mangoes next year

It could be worth a thought to seal the cuts to help keep rot out

Cheers

Time: 24th May 2011 5:55pm

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Original Post was last edited: 24th May 2011 6:10pm

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