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Newly planted orchard (forum)

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Haakon starts with ...
I planted an orchard of 6 dwarf fruit trees in my underutilised front garden over the weekend. 2 pears, 2 peaches, a nectarine and an apricot. Each tree hole got a half bag of shop compost, a half bag of shop soil activator, chook pellets and rock minerals, topped with coir mulch.

The trellises are orientated north/south. I am using the KNNN espalier method detailed in an article on the Woodbridge Fruit Trees website.

In one photo you can see my casa Italiano in the background. This shades the site in winter but by my calculations there should be good sun by September 1st and full sun by October 1st. The photo also shows the fejoa in the foreground that doesn
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Picture: 2

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Time: 20th June 2011 12:59pm

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Jimmy says...
KNNN is only for apples, even the woodbridge website says that. A pear sort of is OK, but I wouldn't do it.

The stone fruit should be fan trained.

Go to www.petercoppin.com and book into soem classes he can teach you esplaier or come out and consult on site.

Time: 20th June 2011 1:23pm

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John Mc says...
Nice work. That's a good strong trellising system you have built there. I don't know anything about your training system I've only grown trees in the normal way.

In my opinion July or August would be the better months for the move, maybe favouring August if there is no urgency.

Time: 20th June 2011 1:24pm

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Original Post was last edited: 20th June 2011 1:28pm

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Jimmy says...
The rows look too close as well, trees should be 80% high compared to the row spacing.

The trees are a tad close but the trees are on pumiselect rootsocks so that keeps the size down a touch, for the stonefruit.

Time: 20th June 2011 1:25pm

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ringelstrumpf says...
It looks as if you want to cage the trees against birds!

Time: 20th June 2011 2:06pm

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amanda says...
Lots of work there Haakon - well done :)

Time: 20th June 2011 4:45pm

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About the Author amanda19
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Brad says...
the feijoa is small. it should transplant quite well. give it a good drink well before. try to keep as much of the rootball and soil intact. Ideally do it on a cloudy day otherwise before sundown. don't fertilize - seasol is good.

with regards to JohnMc - I reckon Autumn or early winter is a good time for Perth. get the roots well established before spring / early summer which are already pretty intense here.

As with Jimmy, there's probably a few things I'd recommend doing differently - but there's no wrong in gardening. see how you go. you might find they're eventually too close together or hard to keep to shape - but you can always remove some and in the meantime you had some fun and hopefully some fruit. what did someone say the other day... something like if you're not moving plants and/or having some die - you're not extending yourself as a gardener

Time: 20th June 2011 5:00pm

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jimmy says...
Too harsh?

Just want u 2 succeed bro !

Allen Gilbert has a book out called espalier, that should help.

The great gardens website now has videos of Peter Coppin and fruit hedges.

Time: 20th June 2011 5:59pm

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Jimmy says...
http://www.woodbridgefruittrees.com.au/woodbridgefruittrees/articles/159-espaliering-apricots-and-plums.html

This is the fan training emthod.

Time: 20th June 2011 6:09pm

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Mike says...
I reckon espalier,high density plantings and dwarf tree plantations and backyard enterprises are the way of the future.It is happening all over with most fruit trees.
In the tropics it helps with storm and cyclone resistance and you can use marcots with supported trees.It has begun with durians as well.You get more out of small area and trees are easier to spray or fertilise and harvest from.The cost is more work in maintenance.

Time: 21st June 2011 9:04pm

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Haakon says...
Thanks for the feedback Jimmy. Not harsh, I wouldnt post if I didnt want to be helped. I have a few weeks to think about how I am going to go about it before spring.

Here are a couple photos of stone fruit espaliers from a paper NEW TRAINING AND MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS FOR LOW-CHILL STONEFRUIT from Qld DPI.

I reckon I will move the dwarf apricot to a free standing position.

As for getting a consultant in to show me how to do my hobby. That was a joke wasnt it?

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Picture: 2


Time: 22nd June 2011 5:25pm

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Haakon says...
Seems like the photos didnt come across. One is of a peach palmete espalier which has been superceded in their view by a horizontal style espalier. Me? I think I am leaning towards a fan.


Time: 22nd June 2011 5:29pm

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ringelstrumpf says...
I tend to cram everything in. Instead of mowing around the trees I would maybe plant something. Flowers or rhubarb or berry bushes, strawberries, herbs probably everything mixed together. It's maybe less work than mowing around all these trees.
Your garden looks now quite different than your neighbours!

Time: 22nd June 2011 5:54pm

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Brad says...
p9 shows the need for chemical regulation of the plant growth with the method you refer to... which I presume you weren't planning on. http://www.lowchillaustralia.com.au/items/289/Session%206_Nissen_pres.pdf

Time: 22nd June 2011 6:02pm

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Wayne says...
Me to ringelstrumpf, but if I can't eat it I won't plant it, however, I end up with this jungle that makes life difficult

Time: 22nd June 2011 6:04pm

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Haakon says...
Brad the control on slide 9 doesnt look like that much work.

Early morning cuppa in one hand, secateurs in other (note to self: dressing gown needs belt for front yard work)

Time: 22nd June 2011 6:28pm

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ringelstrumpf says...
Wayne, never heard of rose jam or flowers in the salad? That does not mean that we do eat all our flowers, but a garden without flowers can't be!
BTW, roses are the preferred food of our sheep.

Time: 22nd June 2011 8:07pm

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Jimmy says...
Yeah, thats what he does.

A small sum would help a lotta heartache later.

Time: 23rd June 2011 10:15am

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