stink bugs (forum)

Desperate!! starts with ...
Does anyone have any advice on how to get rid of stink bugs from citrus trees? Also, does anyone know why they attack some trees and not others?Please HELP!!

Time: 3rd November 2011 5:40pm

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About the Author Desperate1
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Fruity Tootie says...
I am new to fruit growing so there are plenty of others who are better to answer you but I have read of a lot of people using an old vacuum cleaner to suck them off the trees (that way you don't get them sqirting you in the eyes)...

Time: 3rd November 2011 7:41pm

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About the Author Fruitie Tootie
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Kathy says...
I knock the sting bugs off the tree into a bucket (that's easy) - then put them on the ground and stamp on them (rubber boots)- equally easy - except for the awareness that I am killing them.
Some say to drown the stink bugs in the bucket - but that way seems more cruel. I'd love to know a humane way to kill them.

I have stink bugs on my Tahitian lime at the moment and none on my mandarin. The Tahitian lime is a much healthier tree - maybe they choose the best food??? Or maybe there's something in the lime tree they love???
What trees do you have stink bugs on?
Kathy

Time: 4th November 2011 6:56am

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Chris says...
I consider the welfare of stink bugs (aka Bronze Orange Bugs) too when I kill them. I look for the method that gives me the greatest satisfaction: a Redhead gas lighter.
Their native host is the finger lime, but they prefer heavy foliaged trees, with lots of sappy growth.
I have none on my lemon but my neighbours' neglected lemonade tree is where they migrate from.
Control them in winter by spraying with a soap spray to kill the overwintering eggs. At this time of the year, get a stick and knock them off in the juvenile stage (when green or orange and visible). They do not fly in the juvenile stage, so are easier to control before they morph into the black flying adult stage.

Time: 4th November 2011 9:06am

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About the Author Chris
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Kathy says...
Chris - I like the idea of killing the eggs over winter. I'll do that next year.
This is my lime - which they love.
Kathy
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Time: 4th November 2011 11:50am

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About the Author kathyturner
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Kathy says...
How do I get an image to show up?
Kathy

Time: 4th November 2011 11:51am

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Chris says...
Kathy, when you spray next year ensure that you get it on the underside of the leaves. That's where the eggs are laid.
To be honest the spined citrus bug is more of a worry. Only a few of these can cause real damage to the fruit. They suck the juice out leaving brown patches in the inside and disappear by the time the fruit is ripe. They leave no obvious damage from the outside. What's more they are green, making them hard to spot amongst the leaves. And they generally target citrus when they are green.
Oh, and they also release a stinky caustic liquid.

Time: 4th November 2011 12:39pm

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About the Author Chris
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Desperate!! says...
The stink bugs are on my orange trees, lime trees, lemonades, manderines, grapefruit and kafir lime -it's ridiculous!!!

Time: 4th November 2011 5:27pm

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Kathy says...
YIKES desperate - no wander you are desperate! IF you can see them - follow the advice knock them off with a stick into a bucket. Then kill. Avoid getting the stink in your eyes or skin.
Are your trees large - or just new? Are your trees beautifully healthy?

I guess the fruit is falling off. Hopefully you'll get them before too much has gone - last year I was left with only 3 limes on my tree!

AND Chris - thanks for telling me where to spray!!
kathy

Time: 4th November 2011 5:41pm

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Kathy says...
Just thinking more:

I wander if the stink bugs like my lime because it has so much lush growth (thought inspired by Chris).

AND I'm wandering if that is caused by the fact that I gave it blood and bone with phosphate added in.

What leads me along these thoughts is that my neighbour has only a few stink bugs in his tree - but no real damage. His tree is much more established than mine; I also think he probably only gives it manure each spring - so the foliage is more strong. His tree has a huge amount of fruit despite the few stink bugs. And of course my mandarin has no stink bugs - and is not lush (due to being planted where it gets too much water if it rains).

So my plan for next year is:
1. spray with soapy water as chris suggested - in winter;
2. only put manure around the tree - no blood and bone - and definitely no phosphate.

Any thoughts?

Kathy

Time: 4th November 2011 7:35pm

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BJ says...
If it is really bad, you may have to use confidor. Just make sure you use it early before any bees are out, as it is far from selective. It works, but the bugs will come back, but in much smaller numbers so you should be able to control much easier in the future.

Time: 4th November 2011 8:23pm

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Chris says...
One big problem you overlooked BJ: confidor is not registered for use on citrus, unless they are "non-bearing or ornamental". I wonder why? Perhaps because it's toxicity remains present in the fruit.

Time: 4th November 2011 10:44pm

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About the Author Chris
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Chris says...
I tried for a change (instead of knocking them off with a stick), 10ml neem oil and 5ml horticultural soap per litre of water. And it worked! They didn't drop dead instantaneously though. Now I don't know whether an oil spray would have the same result or if there's something active in the neem oil. And if you are going to buy neem oil, buy it online, not at the B store.

Time: 13th January 2012 11:23pm

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Chris says...
I tried for a change (instead of knocking them off with a stick), 10ml neem oil and 5ml horticultural soap per litre of water. And it worked! They didn't drop dead instantaneously though. Now I don't know whether an oil spray would have the same result or if there's something active in the neem oil. And if you are going to buy neem oil, buy it online, not at the B store.

Time: 13th January 2012 11:31pm

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Mike says...
My place is a carnival of stink bugs,with fruit spotting bugs,bean bugs,tea leaf bugs,melon bugs,green solanum bugs of 2 types, and about 6 other serious offenders.One type even attacks my neem.There must kg's of bug paste in the yard from all I've squashed.I will certainly try Chris's recipe but I have never heard of horticultural soap.

Time: 14th January 2012 8:49am

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Mike says...
A few weeks ago I lashed out and tried spraying with carbaryl as interventionist action was needed.Carbaryl seems to be milder and more vertebrate friendly than other insecticides.I did not want my ducks and geese to come into contact with it.It is all high 5's and laughter in the bug community about that effort and I don't want to use anything stronger.

Time: 14th January 2012 9:00am

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MaryT says...
For the first time I also have stink bugs on my citrus (from neighbours who's had them year after year). Sigh. I'll try Chris' oil spray as well - guess soap is soap? Ouch; I can feel the blows raining on me already :)

Time: 14th January 2012 9:09am

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Brendan says...
Hi MaryT, for soap, try Lux flakes. Dissolve a third of a cup of Lux flakes in hot water, then add that to your 5 litre sprayer with the oil. Best used all at once, as the lux flakes can thicken and clog up your sprayer.

Time: 14th January 2012 9:14am

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MaryT says...
Thanks Brendan; one cup of Lux flakes to five litres of water? That's 5 teaspoons to a litre, right? I'll have to half that to use it all at once :)

Time: 14th January 2012 10:13am

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Chris says...
Horticultural soap often sold as natrasoap.


Time: 14th January 2012 10:50am

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au0rey says...
I got the green sting bugs too, first time and I found them on my eggplants and tomato plants, so I guess they attack a wide range of plants. I read that nothing much can be used to treat this problem, so all I do is pick them and quickly stamp (as they fly off) them under my shoes...gosh really smelly stuff they are!

Time: 15th January 2012 8:43pm

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Andrew says...
There is a an insecticide called MaxGuard. It's in a red bottle and can be bought at Bunnings and Woolworths. I spray my lemon tree and within 30 minutes, the bugs are dropping off the tree. By the next day, my lemon tree is free of them, and there are million dead stink bugs on the ground around the tree. Better yet, the product keeps the bugs away for a couple of months.

Time: 24th January 2012 8:12pm

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Chris says...
Pays to read the label Andrew:
http://www.scottsaustralia.com.au/Defender/Defender_Maxguard
DO NOT USE ON FOOD PLANTS.

A potent systemic (0.05g/L). Not on my citrus.


Time: 24th January 2012 9:15pm

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john says...
Yes, the active ingredient is a neo -nicotinoid which has a poor safety record . It is v. persistent and of extreme toxicity to bees.

Time: 25th January 2012 7:15am

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amanda says...
Probably better off with the real nicotene (we have stubbies for ashtrays and save up the butts, fill them with water and pour the solution down ants nests) I am having a look at whether or not I can use a local Nicotiana plant as tobacco substitute (although one pack may go far - haven't checked dilution rate yet)

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/10/101027124734.htm

Time: 25th January 2012 8:58am

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Mike says...
This group of insecticides has been used on fruit and veg extensively for at least since the 90's.Its advantages atre that it is focussed on insect neural pathways with low mammalian toxicity.Because it is so insect specific it can be used in very low concentrations.It is way better than many older insecticides and I doubt there are any cases of serious poisoning in humans unless they guzzled litres of it.I don't like pesticides and would always advise to avoid them but go for those with low mammalian toxicity,low risk of endocrine disruption instead of old baddies on their way out.

Time: 25th January 2012 8:31pm

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amanda says...
Which group Mike - the neo-nicotines (got the spelling right this time john :) - or the actual nicotines?
I don't get it - why don't we just use the natural nicotine?
See the link above - looks like they are coming back...? (all the smokers are dying..so there is now a surplus of tobacco..) Ironic really. What's old is new again. ;-)

Time: 26th January 2012 7:04am

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Mike says...
Amanda neo-nicotinoids are way less harmfull to mammals than organo phosphates,are considered remarkabley insect specific and can be effective at very low concentrations.The dark side of these systemics is that they kill insect pollinators and may have wiped out a significant proportion of the worlds bees.Bad news?....you bet.Nicotene,caffeine,THC and 1000 other substances we use are natural insecticides produced by plants for defence.

Time: 26th January 2012 8:13am

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john says...
Hmmm. not sure about the lack of mammalian toxicity. As the neuro muscular junction of mammalian skeletal muscle is blocked by nicotine I imagine it will be interfered with by the neo-nicotinoids as well. Why would the MaxGuard say not for food crops?
If I had a choice I'd use an acute poison such as the organophosphate Maldison rather than the persistent neo-nicotinoids that seem to go on killing for more than a year.

Time: 26th January 2012 9:29am

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Mike says...
John the key element is the differential toxicity to insects and their nervous systems as compared to mammals allowing very low concentrations to be used.Drink 10l of water and it will 'poison' you.They are currently used on fruit and veg. all over the world so I am not sure about the maxguard product reasoning.It is that they have been considered much safer than organophosphates for humans that has hastened their spread.All insecticides have risks to non-target organisms and people and I was of the belief from what I have previously read that neonicotenoids present a lower risk to people.I not sure if it is the same mode of action as nicotine but I doubt it is.I had better check it out.

Time: 26th January 2012 10:06am

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john says...
I'm not amenable to the idea that insect's nervous systems are far removed from ours.Organophosphates work by inhibiting the degradation of acetylcholinesterase ;this in turn causes a depolarising block of the neuromuscular junction and other synapses controlled by acetylcholine. Exactly the same thing happens in our nerv. systems and can be observed in OP poisoning. If there are differences between insect's N.S. and ours it is not on the basis of acetylcholine.
Nicotine acts exactly on acetylcholine receptors.

Time: 26th January 2012 1:59pm

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Mike says...
John you better hit the books because it is basic physiology when considering selectivity of action.Look at the works of Matsuda.Check the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor subtype selectivity corresponding to the distinctive D-loop of insects.Don't generalise and say it is the same for everything and equally dangerous.

Time: 26th January 2012 2:25pm

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Mike says...
Plant defences are pretty particular about their targets which are usually insects.If a substance or physical structure targets and insect stomach sieve plate then it probably won't adversely impact people.Selectivity in insecticides is about targeting insect specific physiology as well and this is part of the reason why old clunsy mode insecticides are often worse for people.

Time: 26th January 2012 3:02pm

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amanda says...
Thanks for the insights Mike. Sometimes it's better the devil we know then? The bee toxicity problem is of concern though. I doubt there will ever be a perfect solution (maybe picking off the stink bugs by hand...hmnnn!? :D

I am about to use spinosad for the first time (acute f/fly problem) and decided to have a read up..it was pretty enlightening and I am glad I did. But even that is highly toxic to bees too.
I will just have to be very careful not to spray where they are foraging.

Fortunately the trees with fruit - don't have flowers on them also...

Time: 26th January 2012 3:08pm

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Mike says...
Amanda that is right and always read up about the poison you are using.Many are in fact less harmful to you than you might suspect but more harmful to the environment than you may suspect.I could not help but throw johns' line back at him.He may well be in possession of new information and if that is the case there are loads of pharmacology journals and especially Invertebrate Neuroscience Journal that he should alert to this information.

Time: 26th January 2012 3:34pm

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john says...
I'm afraid I disagree with your simplified schema of toxicity of neo-nics. One can give direct quotes from Google and still not "get it" For that you need to understand nuance. The conversation is becoming combative and point scoring. I'll go with my original statement (a nuanced one) namely that I prefer acute toxicity of OP's which I then know how to mitigate than a persistent poison such a neo-nics. Especially when I know there is a class effect of drugs and never a perfect discrimination, as you suggest, down different but closely related pathways in insects and mammals.(just call it wisdom)

Time: 26th January 2012 6:29pm

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Mike says...
Wrong answer John,I repeat look at the science and the references if you have not worked in this area before or perhaps share that wisdom with the scientists who have a different perspective.Brush up on insect physiology and you will see very good specificity has been achieved.I am not point scoring or combative but OP's are worse for people.I did google to check what I had learnt before because I wanted to check my facts and not make stuff up like you.

Time: 26th January 2012 6:50pm

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john says...
Seems Mike you cannot accept other views without being offensive .

Time: 27th January 2012 3:10pm

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Mike says...
John I framed that response along the lines of how you have replied to me before and I have done it with no one else.Ok lets be civil from here on in.Back on topic....while neonics might have a half life of a month in field conditions and be targeted, their concentation in pollen is ringing alarm bells.OP's like malathion do have toxic breakdown products,have irreversible neural impacts,cumulative effects with ongoing exposure even at low doses and are particularly toxic to foetuses and in the environment.

Time: 27th January 2012 5:23pm

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Mike says...
It looks like the other rotenone thread has disappeared in the last few minutes.What I should have added is that the dust can have nasty effects on mucous membranes even if pretty mild at 'garden'concentrations.Repeated exposure to heavy concentrations such as in the US as it is used as a piscicide can have neural impacts and parkinsons like symptoms.This however is a world of difference from the use of the garden dust.

Time: 27th January 2012 5:31pm

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Mike says...
I left something out about rotenone(derris).It is being used by some people as a fishing aid by stunning fish for eating and aquariums.Many consider it should not be available for this reason.I'llgive the pesticides a rest now.

Time: 27th January 2012 5:41pm

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Mike says...
Amanda all is good and I'm interested in Johns views.I have been a bit rude as well and I'll even make a concession on rotenone in the fig thread.

Time: 27th January 2012 7:38pm

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amanda says...
BTW Chris - we having major street riots in the near area here - all due to "social" network sites..? All adults BTW...? Stabbings? Bashings? etc..?

It's very sad to read a post like the previous to be honest...

Google Mullewa street riots - if u think this is just to do with "kids"...?

A snapshot: "Fed up with growing feuds, fuelled by taunts and threats on social media platforms such as Facebook and Diva Chat, the Mid West Anti-violence Action Group was launched this week"

Some people tread a very fine line thinking that they are "anonymous" on the internet.

My kids primary school handles bullying better than this Forum.

As Ghandi said - BE the change u want to see in the world.... :)

Time: 28th January 2012 2:34am

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MaryT says...
This is not about stink bugs so perhaps should be a new topic... but Amanda I can see that you are hurt and distressed about comments made against you so maybe we should have given you more support. I am sorry that it's come to this.

However, many things have also been said about the other party that is far from complimentary. I think we stay out of it in the belief that it is the best way to 'keep it short'; the more people wage in the longer and uglier it gets, I believe.

People who don't like each other can stop talking to each other and that is what I would like to see. Both of you have contributed in a positive way to this forum and I hope will continue to do so.

Let's stay on the topic and don't get personal, please - EVERYONE! One way is not to use the person's name or the pronoun YOU.


Time: 28th January 2012 8:40am

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john says...
Mary T . lets see who writes the next"ad hominem" post. No more personal attacks,right? And let's avoid ,as far as possible , words such as "I" and "my" It's about fruit not about therapy.

Time: 28th January 2012 9:29am

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MaryT says...
No more personal attacks, right. Thank you.

Time: 28th January 2012 9:33am

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amanda says...
Well said MaryT - I am all for moving on too. This has been going on since at least early 2009, and progress has been minimal, but it's worth a try :)



Time: 28th January 2012 12:42pm

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MaryT says...
Thank You; it feels better already :)

Time: 28th January 2012 12:45pm

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snottiegobble says...
I used to regularly dust my chooks with a derris compound without wearing a mask! er, whats my name again?
Rotenone use is being phased out in the USA, but it is not banned!

Time: 28th January 2012 6:03pm

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den says...
i spray on them eucolyptus oil and it tends to kill them

Time: 23rd November 2012 2:07pm

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ladycoconut says...
how has everyone gone with their stink bugs with all the above advice? I've got a list of options now and suggestions which work?

Time: 4th December 2012 1:27pm

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ladycoconut says...
btw so far i have tried a mix of chilli, garlic, tobaco, soap spray this did not work. Pest Oil also didn't work???? Has anyone tried the neem and soap option yet?

Time: 4th December 2012 1:35pm

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easy solution says...
Hello All,
I wait for a day above 35C. Yesterday 08.01.13, in Sydney it was 43C. The bugs aren't heat resistant and climb down from the whole tree onto the base of the trunk.

I use a kettle of boiling water. On these days the bugs assemble perfectly. Pour the boiling water and the bugs are dead within seconds. No chemicals, reasonably humane, little cost. My whole tree is then bug free for a year.

Time: 9th January 2013 2:09pm

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About the Author easy solution
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John Mc says...
Great tip, thanks. So anything above 35

Time: 9th January 2013 9:34pm

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BJ says...
I'll check this out tomorrow. Sounds like hot work, but anything is reasonable to get rid of these buggers from the garden.

Time: 9th January 2013 9:42pm

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About the Author Theposterformerlyknownas
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BJ says...
also, does the boiling water not harm the tree? I'd imagine that sort of heat would seriously harm anything living, including the living outer bark of the tree?

Time: 9th January 2013 9:43pm

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Chris says...
One slight problem EasySolution: being late into the season, the adults have already laid their eggs on your tree for next season. The nymphs (salmon colour) can not reproduce--which is why they must be eliminated at all costs.

Time: 9th January 2013 11:59pm

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About the Author Chris
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Doug says...
Thank you easy solution.
It was mid-thirties today and most of the stink bugs had migrated to the bottom of the trunk of my lemon tree - there were literally hundreds.
I rushed out and bought a cheap ($69) industrial vacuum cleaner; round plastic base on wheels with detachable top that houses the motor and filters.
Then sucked them all up - worked a treat.
The impact when they hit the wall in the vacuum cleaner kills them immediately.
Then clean up the mess inside the vacuum cleaner - a bit of soapy water and a hose off.
Job done.
Thanks all.

Time: 12th January 2013 5:00pm

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About the Author Doug5
Mittagong
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M Nash says...
Im interested about using other plants natural defences. I have a heap of green coffee beans and am thinking of powdering some to mix a spray.
Any thoughts before I possibly waste my time?
Im getting hammered by stink bugs and there is a small but precious crop of rare citrus I really need for other culinary testing purposes.

Time: 12th January 2013 8:21pm

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easy solution says...
Chris,
Thanks for mentioning the eggs, I was wondering why the bugs were back within a year or so. Yeah, this doesn't get rid of eggs, just live adults. I'll keep an eye out.

BJ,
yeah, try to avoid green foliage with boiling water. Bark and other tissues remain unaffected. As it is the base of the tree, the bark is thick on the trunk. I've never seen any adverse effects from the boiling water on the trunk.

Time: 15th January 2013 3:07pm

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sydney
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Bob says...
I like the idea if the vac... I saw them on the way back up the tree after a very hot day.. and had no weapons...except a can of aeroguard!!they did not like that one bit....there were hundreds of them, but not anymore..one or two survivors only..



Time: 13th February 2013 5:39pm

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About the Author Bob23
Medowie
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mooch says...
I have orange ,lemon ,manderin and grapefruit these bugs send me potty, have tried every thing , last year ran out of everything, and in frustration grabbed a can of motor degreaser,not the foaming type, and wella!! spray this on the bugs and eggs if you see them they go nuts drop of tree and dead within a minute i was told bugs breath out there behind. so think this must stop them breathing .i spray them early morning and late in afternoon Do not sray on actual fruit

Time: 18th September 2013 8:21pm

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Chris says...
Mooch, don't know how you would go about spraying mature trees with a spray can!
But I understand your desperation.

Time: 18th September 2013 9:57pm

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Mike says...
Bugs have spiracles for breathing all around their body and legs.Oils that block these can kill bugs.Sometimes a cost/benefit analysis can lead you to do the unthinkable and spray with a mild bug poison with a big spray bottle that can get the required distance.

Time: 19th September 2013 7:43am

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yry says...
Spiracles do not exist on legs , Mike ;and they are a pair per segment on the thorax and abdomen ;not as numerous as you may think.

Time: 19th September 2013 3:33pm

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Mike says...
yry yes that was a slip and the spiracles are along the sides usually.

Time: 19th September 2013 4:45pm

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Shane says...
Citrus beetle? Stink beetle no prob. Simply mix 1 litre full fat milk, 1/2 cup dish washing liq and 1/2 cup cheap cooking oil. Mix up and top up to 4 ltrs warm water. Kills these critters and large grasshoppers in as little as 20 seconds. Repeat till trees are clear.

Time: 1st October 2013 1:38pm

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Goonellabah
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Chris says...
Thanks Shane. Warmer weather seems to have brought them out earlier this year.
Will give this a try as they look to migrate from my neighbour's neglected tree.

Time: 1st October 2013 2:17pm

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servasol says...
Stink Bugs on 3 metre citrus trees
Equipment;
Eye glasses
empty container with lid ie so good soy
step ladder
pair of disposable rubber gloves
& about 1 hour of time per tree
Method
Pluck the buggers off the tree and stick in soy container, pour in boiling water at finish or just squeeze the pests on the tree, no chemicals and recycle all equipment so simple

Time: 3rd October 2013 3:33pm

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Julie says...
I just fill a container with water with a little detergent added. Knock them off into the container - they move so fast they are hard to catch. They drown pretty quickly.

Fairly quick and easy.

Time: 3rd October 2013 6:47pm

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About the Author Julie
Roleystone WA
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Chris says...
Ok, here's another suggestion after much trial and error over the years.
Make up your own white oil spray. (ABC Gardening Australia has a good recipe).
Add 1 part to 4 parts water.
Add 2-3ml/L Maldison (Malathion). I tried 1ml/L but perhaps my bottle had been sitting in the shed too long.
You may have to do a follow up spray to catch those you missed (green stage).
Whatever you do, don't wait for them to get to the adult stage (black).


Time: 9th October 2013 10:35pm

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throwaway says...
green bugs
Pictures - Click to enlarge

Picture: 1

Time: 8th November 2013 10:53pm

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Una says...
Stink beetles can really HURT. They aim high so when yr knocking them into a bucket (water w a bit of kero is a quick death) wear glasses. It will require quick treatment to overcome the intense pain their spray causes.

Also, if you are good and spray trees with white oil (get recipe to make yr own online) at least fortnitely while they are growing/producing lots of green, tender tips, you will be able to control them before they are black and mature.

IF yr lazy and they get ahead of u, use an old vacuum to suck them up. (I say OLD because of course they stink it up!) For mercy... to kill them quick spray some insecticide into the base and plug with a rag. I use my industrial vac for this. u will have to do it several times if its a heavy infestation. AND good idea to loan yr vac to any close neighbour whose bugs are sharing yr trees.

DON"T use those heavy chems to kill em. READ up on them. They are bad news for yr health, the bees, waterways etc.

Good luck. Una

Time: 19th November 2013 6:09pm

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Zanzi says...
Been good to read this as I'm a newbie to Citrus trees due to a move. I've only just found out these stink bugs are a problem. I've gone down the route of gloves, long sleeve shirt, glasses and just squash 'em quick! While Oil also worked when the neighbour lent me some of hers!

What I'd like advice on is.... now that they have done their damage - sucked the sap etc- at this time of the year when fruit is forming do I need to do anything else? IE remove the deformed leaves etc? Is just killing them and continue to keep them off the only thing I need to be alert to?

Nasty things - before I knew what they were they squirted my little 5 year old in the yes but lucky for her I had the hose running and we managed to rinse out straight away.

Any advice about ongoing would be really appreciated!

Zanzi

Time: 5th January 2014 11:08am

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Allambie Heights NSW
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Diana says...
Hi all,

The white oil did not work for me. Annette McFarlane says hardly anything works on the black adults except repeat vacuuming, flyspray or eco-neem. I checked the price of eco-neem and it was really expensive. I used a combination of vacuuming several times then eventually also spot spraying with flyspray (as I was desperate- the bronze orange bugs were killing the lemon). That worked.

Time: 5th January 2014 9:25pm

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Brisbane
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Brain says...
Just keep on monitoring and 're-apply'. There is a good chance that a few got a way (or they migrate from the 'hood) or eggs might already have been laid and is just waiting. The price of freedom is eternal vigilance.

As it's a sap sucking insect, the physical removal is already helping the tree. Some seasol to strength the cell walls and apply a small (yes, small) dose of slow release fertiliser.

Time: 6th January 2014 10:55am

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BJ says...
Get a bucket of hot water and dishwashing liquid and knock the bugs in. In time you will come to know their routines and can just go out when they mate as they orgy up into a cluster of 20 odd adults and its easy to kill a few hundred in a few short minutes. No organic sprays ever slowed their pace and even some chemical sprays hardly slowed them once they were past green stage. I also noticed many migrated to my Grumixama to mate, making their removal into said bucket of soapy water much easier.

Time: 6th January 2014 11:46am

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Zanzi says...
Thanks for letting me know about a (small amount) of slow release fertiliser - good plan! Will do that and remain vigilant about getting them off the tree when I see them!

Time: 6th January 2014 2:22pm

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Allambie Heights NSW
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yrt says...
Get some pliers and wear goggles.

Time: 8th January 2014 1:40pm

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sydney
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Rob says...
I hate these stink bugs and would like to put a flame-thrower to them... even if it hurts the tree. That said, soapy water or a vacuum cleaner seem the best options (though, I'd have to throw out the vacuum afterwards else wear the wrath of my house-proud wife. Any other suggestions are welcome. Cheers, Rob, Sydney, Australia.

Time: 24th February 2014 7:49pm

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Kings Park
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servasol says...
Instead of sucking the bugs into the vac where its hard to clean ,, stuff a sealed like sock section of stocking on the hose end secure with rubber band Volla pull out once filled ,tie a knot and in the bin

Time: 27th February 2014 2:53pm

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Putney
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Barry of here and there says...
MAXGUARD Manufacturer says "do not use on food plants"

Time: 3rd October 2014 8:01pm

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Port Macquarie
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Tommo says...
Pyrethrum works great but you do have to hit them with a squirt or two

Time: 24th October 2014 5:23pm

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kareela
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jef says...
I have Kookaburra that all of a sudden has taken a liking to them.He keeps swoopinng into my lemon tree and picking them off.Hope the family joins in



Time: 5th November 2014 6:58pm

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newcastle
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Cato says...
A relative is wanting to give me a potted lemon tree to plant in my yard, but it's infected with stink bugs and there are currently none in my area.

Should I accept the tree and then try to control them? Or is better not to introduce them at all..?

Time: 9th March 2015 12:12am

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ponds
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Brain says...
I would treat at current site and ensure the bugs are erraticated first. Prune back branches and spary over a course of weeks.

Time: 9th March 2015 1:23pm

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About the Author Brain
Brisbane
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Stinkbug Assasin says...
Be careful around stinkbug. They will try and squirt you with their foul smelling protectant. If they get you in the eye it can be painful, until you can wash it out with water.
I try to control them with an aerosol of fly spray ( you'll need to experiment to find the one they're susceptible to). This year I'm going to try carbaryl in a trigger pack. I avoid blanket sprays, as they also chase bee's away

Time: 4th May 2015 9:37am

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Bug Killer says...
Hey!! I have thousands of the little beggars which I am spraying with Pyrethrim on a daily basis. Just can't beat them. Would never catch them all in a million years. They have ruined the fruit on my 3 citrus for the last 3 years. Having neighbours who don't try to control them doesn't help either. Olwyn

Time: 14th October 2015 1:21pm

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Eleebana
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Kathryn B says...
I got an idea from Mike when he said the green and orange bugs don't fly. I put a light coloured tarp around the base of my tree and got out my high pressure water sprayer (aka kartcher). Sure enough heaps fell to the ground ready for squashing. I found that the high pressure spraying slowed the pests down with many falling onto the tarp and those that didn't were easily able to be picked/knocked off and thrown into a bucket of water.

Time: 19th October 2015 5:16pm

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Gorokan
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Sonja1 says...
I have just sprayed my kampha lime with neem and home made liquid soap with water. Thank you hoping it works

Time: 17th December 2015 7:49am

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BULGA,2330,NSW
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techman says...
Hello,
I would like to know if anyone out there has a cure for the fruit spotting bug. They are currently attacking my pawpaw trees. I have heard that essential oils are effective. Can anyone shed some light on the matter?
Kind Regards,
Techman

Time: 20th December 2015 7:44am

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Cow Bay
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pdarcy78 says...
I found that the yates rose spray works best to kill these little stink bug monsters, I've tryied the soapy water, eco-oil, Pyrethrum spray and killing them one by one. Used the rose spray, spray them directly and they drop like flies. Hope this helps.

Time: 21st November 2016 11:20pm

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south penrith
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jred525 says...
yates citrus and ornamental is the only approved spray for them as far as I know. ( as they claim).

Time: 21st December 2016 4:55pm

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wacol
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Waynej says...
Max guard is not to be used on eatable trees such as citrus tree per mana factor

Time: 15th October 2017 12:53pm

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Wyoming
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Downunderdave says...
Our stink bugs are grey. I squash around 5 or 6 each day in the summer. They are easy to find because they like to sit around the trunk of the tree. I paint the trunk white with a 50/50 mixture of builders lime and Bricklayers clay. This makes them easy to see. I’ve also trained my lime and lemon trees over a pergola, (Amalfi coast trick) which provides good access to the trunk, utilises the shady area under the trees and leaves you with fruit at head level.

Time: 17th December 2017 3:27pm

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Townsville
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Iris Thomas says...
There are some ways to get rid of Stink Bugs in the Garden: Seal up cracks in your home, Use homemade stink bug trap vinegar solution, Use plants, Use garlic, Use commercial products. I did those ways and they really useful.

Time: 14th June 2022 7:18pm

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Los Angeles 7110 California Hoa Kỳ
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zarghoonzada says...
Stink bugs are small, shield-shaped insects that are around ½ an inch long. They get their name from the fact that they can release a foul smelling liquid when they feel threatened. This liquid is used to deter predators and can also cause skin irritation in humans. Stink bugs are usually brown or green in color and have distinctive markings on their backs. Although they are considered to be pests, stink bugs do not bite or sting and are generally harmless to humans.

Time: 19th November 2022 12:02am

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Bucharest 10001 Bucuresti romania
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