when to spray mango? (forum)

Michelle starts with ...
Hi there

we just moved to Brisbane and have a 6 year old mongo tree in the yard. I was told it hardly gets any fruit but it has many flowers. I had a look at it and the flowers started to set little fruit but look like they are infected with anthracnose (flowers are black). Is it too late to start spraying with Mankozeb to get a crop out of this tree this year?? When do we have to start spraying to get a good crop?

Time: 9th September 2009 3:59pm

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About the Author Michelle12
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Wayne says...
Spray ASAP Michelle, you need to get that anthracknose under control. May I suggest using copper oxichloride and mancozeb combined, 30grams of each to 4.5L of water with a good wetting agent, say 60mls of that. Pure soap such as lux is OK if you can't get a wetting agent.

If you notice and aphid moths when you spray you will need to fix them as well. Spray every 10/11 days

Time: 9th September 2009 5:26pm

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About the Author Wayne
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Michelle says...
Thanks Wayne I will try to get both. The copper oxichloride is not considered as organic I suppose? What is a wetting agent?

Time: 12th September 2009 12:51pm

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Wayne says...
A wetting agent helps the spray stick to the plant, otherwise it just runs off without doing much, ask at your nursery

Time: 12th September 2009 2:36pm

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About the Author Wayne
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rosie says...
what should i do when wet and dry seasons for mangoes spray.
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Time: 26th May 2012 10:09am

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About the Author alcyly
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Mike says...
Rosie even with fungicide and insecticide you only need one dry day for spraying to be effective.Don't spray on the hottest days because this can burn the foliage.If you can't get wetting agent one or two drops of dishwashing liquid help the spray to stick to the leaves.

Time: 26th May 2012 7:03pm

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alcyly says...
from the break buds, and so on, what is the correct intervals of spray needed,

Time: 26th May 2012 7:27pm

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About the Author alcyly
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alcyly says...
I have a mango farm with more than 500 trees.my questions are follows:
a. from the day of flower inducer spray,how many days to count before you will make an another spray for insects,pest,or fungus?

b. As you said, we need to apply a wetting agent so that the chemicals will more efficient and effective,how much the dosage to be apply in every 200L of water or in a one big dram container?

d. how about the correct intervals from the break buds,until the buds elongations and so on until bagging?

c. during wet seasons, as we could be able to make any spray since the chemicals will be washing out from the rain,what should i do if the mangoes flowers so much attacking by the insect.fungus,or pest?
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Time: 27th May 2012 6:32pm

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About the Author alcyly
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Mike says...
alcyly I suppose you are the same person as rosie.Those are very hard questions to answer as I doubt many australian farmers induce flowering.The philipines has very good extention services for advice and the instructions on the insecticide and fungicide containers will let you know frequency and timing.As a farmer you should know a fair bit already and can learn from other farmers.Some fungicides don't mix well with each other and others can be applied with insecticides.Are you growing caraboas in Luzon? What fungal diseases and pests are the problems?

Time: 27th May 2012 6:47pm

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John Mc says...
Besides the large mammals we have here damaging the fruit, and, of course, rain during flowering. I spray Mancozeb up to just before flower opening then after pollination every two to three to four weeks till ripen.

Time: 29th May 2012 8:50am

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Original Post was last edited: 30th May 2012 6:16pm

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snottiegobble says...
OK single fellas, who`s off to the Philippines then?

Time: 29th May 2012 12:42pm

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asder says...
Does anyone know what a flower inducer is for a mango? They seem to flower profusely without help.

Time: 29th May 2012 1:02pm

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asder says...
All this and a mango farm as well. Where do I send my application.?

Time: 30th May 2012 7:29am

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Mike says...
I believe potassium nitrate is the usual flower inducer and I don't know if it is available here.It may be useful for recalcitrant trees.
Anthracnose is the main mango problem fungus causing dying black tips,fruit black spot and early spoiling by going black.Mancozeb and copper oxychloride are the usual fungicides for this.Phytopthtera cause root rot and canker especially in durian and avos.Phosphonate a tonic not a true fungicide sold as anti rot is the usualy treatment but all these diseases are hard to cure and preventative spraying holds them off.

Time: 30th May 2012 5:50pm

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amanda says...
Just leave the plant alone and it will flower. Ever noticed how they do it perfectly well in nature without our "interference"...?
Lol..silly stuff :)

Time: 31st May 2012 3:51am

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About the Author amanda19
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MaryT says...
Leave it to nature, Amanda? You battle nature more fiercely than anyone I know :) Fertility is big business; even for humans; why deprive the mango tree of a little science? Do you know how many test tube humans are walking the earth right now? Over four millions but how many frozen sperms and frozen embryos ? Countless.

Time: 31st May 2012 7:25am

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Mike says...
It is just economics in the philipines to get more and larger mangoes from a smaller area.It also convinces trees that are investing more energy in wood or leaves to redeploy those resources into fruit.Mary I agree it is not that far removed from pest and disease control,pruning and fertilizing.

Time: 31st May 2012 7:53am

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asder says...
Here's a challenge -- go into a produce store with an Islamic beard and ask for potassium nitrate;see what happens.
Mike , phosphonate isn't a "tonic" ;there is no available phosphate in phosphonate.

Time: 31st May 2012 8:36am

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MaryT says...
Mike I like to think of gardening as an art as well as a science that works with nature.

Time: 31st May 2012 10:33am

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Mike says...
Mary I agree it is arty science but my expertie is in the eating department.
Asder phosphate is different from phosphonate.Phosphorous acid or mono di potassium phosphite is the name I should have used if you are a chemistry enthusiast.
How about a false moustache when doing the purchase?

Time: 31st May 2012 11:43am

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asder says...
My point exactly , Mike. You will not supply any phosphate (PO4) by applying phosphonate.

Time: 31st May 2012 1:09pm

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Mike says...
Sorry asder I was short in my description.PO4 phosphate is the compound that delivers the essential macronutrient phosphorous which has a role in plant physiology in disease resistance.That was not what I was talking about.The new age systemic,foliar and trunk injection fungicide H3 PO3 or (HO)2HPO if you are a chemistry nerd stimulates a plant root flush so it grows through phytophthera and can also prevent the fungis' sporulation with direct contact but it is not used this way and that it is why it is a tonic.As it can't break down to PO4 the plant thinks it has enough phosphorous and it actually can cause deficiency symptoms as a result.

Time: 31st May 2012 1:29pm

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amanda says...
Here is an excellent link on issues with flowering (by an actual expert) Scroll down to the second topic. MaryT - u might find it surprising ;-)

http://wahorticulture.wordpress.com/

Time: 1st June 2012 11:38am

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MaryT says...
Good article, Amanda on the many reasons for non flowering. I only find it surprising that we're all still trying! :) Some of the other articles were good reading as well. I wish can calculate evaporation rate, for example.

Time: 1st June 2012 1:25pm

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amanda says...
Hey MaryT - I think there is a spot somewhere in the BOM site that gives evaporation rates...not sure where but will have a look around :)

Time: 1st June 2012 7:06pm

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Mike says...
That link is ideal for for exploring the spraying of mangoes in the Philipines and looking at the role of H3PO3.
You look like a polar explorer in that pic Mary.

Time: 1st June 2012 7:19pm

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John Mc says...
I might try a foliar spray of Potassium Nitrate on my recalcitrant dragon fruit plants next summer. The 25kg bag I have is greenhouse grade water soluable
13.5-0-46.2. And No, I don't have a beard either, I use it as an ingredient in my hydroponic mixes and, No, I don't smoke.
I tried a foliar spray of MAP last year which seemed to bring on a couple of flowers but very unscientific and no conclusions could be had.

Time: 2nd June 2012 3:57pm

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MaryT says...
Mangoes
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Picture: 1

Time: 3rd June 2012 9:19am

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Brendan says...
Colin Campbell wrote this in last Friday's Courier Mail newspaper.
Seems some 'experts' have different ideas on what helps flowering?

http://www.couriermail.com.au/life/outabout/gardening-how-to-pick-the-right-fertiliser/story-e6frer76-1226376845199

Or even this (I'm now spraying on my avo trees now) http://www.searles.com.au/pdf/Liquid%20Potash%201%20Litre%20label.pdf

It has 20% K, and 4% P.

Time: 4th June 2012 8:28am

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asder says...
Colin suggests putting superphosphate into the planting hole. But when you read the packet it warns of possible heavy metal contamination. What to do?. I don't think rock phosphate has much available phosphate.

Time: 4th June 2012 9:05am

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MaryT says...
Brendan, thanks for the link to the Courier Mail article. There's an interesting hint at the bottom of the page that suggests spraying broad bean flowers with a solution of 1/5 teaspoon of sugar to a litre of water to attract pollinating insects and bees. Has anyone ever done that? Would it work for all flowers?

Time: 4th June 2012 9:30am

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BJ says...
He reccommends that for most fruit flowers, especially passionfruit, which some folk seem to have trouble with.

Time: 4th June 2012 9:35am

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BJ says...
Also, have heard yates are bringing out a new liquid copper product which is supposedly more effective in mangoes and avocadoes as it gives a grearter coverage. Should be out in a month.

Time: 4th June 2012 9:36am

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Brendan says...
Hi BJ, is this the spray? http://www.yates.co.nz/garden-calendar/november/product-of-the-month--yates-liquid-copper-fungicide/

Looks good :-) Might be in NZ only?

Time: 10th June 2012 6:59am

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Original Post was last edited: 10th June 2012 7:01am

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